
Stevey Y
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Everything posted by Stevey Y
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Can anyone help diagnose this fault pls ? Audi A4 B8 2010
Stevey Y replied to Steve Candi's topic in Audi A4 (B8) Forum
Hi, most of the newer Audis have this feature as well as Ford -Vauxhall and many more, its a safety feature to prevent the car starting in gear/drive and moving forward, pushing the brake pedal [automatic] or clutch pedal [manual] disengages the button on the pedal which cuts the ignition circuit. Steve. -
Hi you will need top mounts and the rubber silencer rings x4 the best aftermarket springs are Kilen and from previous experience I would recommend Bilstein B4 shock absorbers they are not the cheapest but give an excellent service life compared with other branded twin tube shocks. Steve.
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Hi thats the whole point of using the Hydra Maximus every other fill up, it keeps everything clean I have used this on both my previous cabs 300k+ on one and 270k on the other it turns the standard diesel into premium diesel for about 5p extra per 25litres no brainer really, I use between £60-80 per week and a 1ltre bottle lasts about three months, private owners will probably use a litre per year, not a bad investment for around twenty five quid. Steve.
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Hi just pulled up a schematic of the rear suspension on my parts system and my money is on the drop link. Steve.
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Hi yes indeed I hope I am wrong but the chain guides are made of nylon or some sort of rubber and know for a fact these wear and let the chain become loose thus allowing the possibility of slipping. Steve.
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Hi if its fitted with drop links on the rear it could well be one of those other than that the only other thing it might be is a rear damper top mount if they are original on that age car it could well be the bonded rubber bush has let go, the AA isn't a bad shout as have you ever seen the size of the lever bars they use to get the suspension to move up and down. Steve.
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Hi much as I hate to say this but it sounds from the videos like the timing has slipped, I think from memory these engines have a chain, it sounds as though when the coil packs are connected it is firing back through an open valve which may account for the rapid sooting of the other components down the line it may have gone round one tooth which won't kill it but it won't do it any favours either, how many miles has it done? I know the manufacturers say the chain should last the life of the car but that won't take into account extra wear caused by extended service interval oil degradation. Steve.
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Hi lets face it the dealerships have been having peoples pants down for years, they prey on the customers trust and lack of ability to check what has and has not been done, I can cite a fair few personal experiences with Ford and Vauxhall and if you trawl the net for any franchised dealers they all have pretty horrific records which is why I whole heartedly agree with Wazza, you are much better off with a little independent garage if you can't do it yourself. You shouldn't have to ask a main dealer to change fluids etc at the appropriate milage they should be TELLING YOU it needs changing but from their perspective its better not to as they make fortunes when a major component fails, when I bought my car it according to Manchester Audi had been given a full whistles and bells service at 36k I bought it with 40k on the clock so when I got it home a week later I ripped it apart and replaced everything and sure enough the air filter could only be described as round and black the fuel filter was original from the date painted on it May 16 2016 the car when I bought it was just over three years old, the only thing they had changed was the engine oil but regardless of that I changed the whole lot including the gearbox oil and brake fluid at least I was starting from square one, you can tell when a dealership service manager is lying his lips move. Steve.
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Hi when you put the new callipers on did you re do the adaptation process for them as this would cause the same symptoms where the body control module is not quite sure where the piston should be, from memory there is a youtube video on how this should be done. Steve.
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Hi Paul, an average lift pump should knock out about 45psi although I have never used a pressure gauge and normally just taken the feed pipe off of the fuel filter out feed and dangled the pipe in an old plastic bottle, then get an assistant to switch the ignition to position 2 and watched if it sprays out like a fire hose you can safely assume the lift pump is working, if this is the case the next thing to try is the regulator solenoid on the end of the fuel rail these as far as I am aware are not monitored by the ECU and can play up and never throw a code up, as I say not to sure with the petrol version but on the diesel you have to hunt it down as it does cause a misfire of sorts where the solenoid spring becomes weak and won't hold the rail pressure. Before going off on a tangent try the crank sensor first then if it won't run start looking further afield as it ran before on the old sensor was changed when fitting the new one double check the connector for dodgy pin ports, this is a tough one but please keep this thread updated. Steve.
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Hi it would help if you had some codes, not sure on petrol models but on my diesel there is a crank sensor adaptation protocol which has to be re adapted when fitting the new part, it sounds more of a fuel pressure problem but that would throw a code up, only other thing I can think of is try the old crank sensor again as if it starts on that one it may be the new one is defective. Steve.
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Hi not resetting the service light would not put the EML on, just take it back to the garage and get them to plug it in might be they forgot to do the adaptation procedure on the Lambda sensor after it was fitted.
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Hi probably not but had it been mine I would have treated the fuse box to a generous helping of WD40 and then left it overnight then give it another hosing down and then driven it, its most likely where the water has caused a short somewhere but the other thing to look at coincidentally would be the oil level as if the turbo seals have gone the engine will use its own oil to run on until she blows but thinking about your thread it wouldn't have let you turn it off you would have had to stall it to shut it down. Steve.
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2011 Q5 needs work- do I fix it or trade it in ?
Stevey Y replied to Duckie155's topic in Audi Q5 Club
Hi, Sarah even if the steering joint is found to be at fault what price a new one compared with say injector failure on the new car you just bought, the trade sellers are all trying to unload cars as fast as possible, prime example being my daughters boyfriend who just bought a Fiesta ST with just under 50k on the clock for a very low price he has had it three weeks when I pointed out the discs and pads back and front are worn out, not covered by the warranty apparently so I managed to get him some quality replacement E11 approved discs and pads but its still cost him £160.00 for the parts, fortunately a joint assault on brakes meant he had no labour charges. Steve. -
2011 Q5 needs work- do I fix it or trade it in ?
Stevey Y replied to Duckie155's topic in Audi Q5 Club
Hi, the last question, how long is a piece of string, these vehicles are capable of starship milage if looked after with regard to the CV boot I personally would look into using Stretchy boots as these are made of rubber and nylon and generally speaking more robust than the original boots which are a moulded neoprene and tend to age badly and are more brittle, [look at stretchy boot fitting on youtube]. if its the bump stops on the shocks the kits for both front and back are about £25 each for a pair front and the same for the rears as for the intermediate steering column replacement I strongly suspect that its a bit of Audi kidology, sorry to point out the obvious but you are female therefore you are most unlikely to get it up on a ramp and have a look yourself thats what they rely on. In the final analysis I would look further afield for a repairer and don't whatever you do give any hint of previous quotes before you have their honest no Cr@p opinion and price, then if its more reasonable get it fixed and keep the car, at least you know its history. Steve. -
Hi unfortunately I don't have the answer to that one but the one thing I know for certain is that you have to do a lot of prep before changing any major component I.E. plugin and store the original long coding for the steering wheel, in fact take time to write it down as that way you can't loose it and have a path back if it all goes pear shaped, the other thing as Richard pointed out would be to ask advice as to its suitability if its from a later/different model, everything on these cars has a code for every occasion to prevent owners from randomly changing things and as usual I am sure someone will know how to get round it. Steve
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Hi whatever they have done seems to have tuned it up somewhat I just logged in first go, well impressed, why do we have to have cookies they are just a form of information collation I am reliably informed. Steve.
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Hi yes if you bring this matter to their attention there is a good chance that you are not the only person these thieving scrotes have fleeced put something up on social media to see if you can find anyone else in the same boat, another good point of reference is your local paper, ring them and see if they would be interested in running this as a story, give them as much unwanted publicity as you can, the AA guy is correct as with all these cowboy engine rebuilders they have probably used what they loosely describe as a remanufactured oil pump AKA second hand. Steve.
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- oil pressure.
- ring engineering southall
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Hi there are definitive differences between the switch gear on each wheel, my guess is that the connectors are pinned in a different manner, the plugs may fit but the wiring on the new wheel is different. Steve.
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Hi no disrespect intended but why would you know whats wrong, thats why you gave it to Ring Engineering they allegedly knew and fixed it, I am afraid your only recourse now is to go through Trading standards as long as you have the paperwork from the repairer it should be a fairly straightforward procedure. Steve.
- 4 replies
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- oil pressure.
- ring engineering southall
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(and 2 more)
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Hi another possibility is if the lights are HID remove the inspection covers and bulb and gaffer tape a smaller piece of tubing to a vacuum cleaner hose waggle the pipe around inside the headlamp unit and suck it out. Steve.
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Hi the flap opens up at higher rpm to help with the expulsion of exhaust gas, as for filleting a standard exhaust back box if you get it wrong they are very expensive to replace and even if you manage to get the baffle insulation out is all you will be left with is a nasty resonating tin box which is clearly audible in the car, you can always go waste money on an aftermarket system, they will happily produce loads of customer depositions as to how much faster the car goes with its new Carlos Fandango super size straight through pipe, sorry to be the bearer of bad news but it is just an illusion caused by the extra noise. You don't think Audi spent thousands of hours on Dynos developing the optimum exhaust flow rate for your engine including back pressure breaks just to have some wag with a unit full of stainless steel tubing and a pipe bender doubling up on performance for only £299.00, its the oldest formula in engineering, exhaust gas pulses are circular if you have a race car thats running at max revs all the time by all means have the biggest straightest pipe it will clear the gass pulses really quickly, unfortunately if you are running your mum down the shops in traffic you don't need a massive bore pipe as this will rob you of the initial torque you need to just pull away and like all those who have the big bore exhaust you will have to rev the nuts off the car to pull away. Steve.
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Hi try deleting the codes but keep a note of them and publish on here so we stand a better chance of diagnosing the fault, that price though is wrooooong.
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Strange thing is it seems to be selective about its victims, like I say its strange how its worked for me better part of a year and now only works intermittently
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Hi its worth getting the VCDS as this gives you the code frequency and the urgency scale of repair as well as the long coding numbers should you have to buy a part and re code it, but I have found that whenever I plug my A6 in there is always some sort of code that has appeared and once deleted never appears again, these cars software has a code for every occasion its been designed to throw you into the arms of your local Audi dealer so the service manager can suck his teeth and look serious about charging you shed loads for clearing a load of redundant codes. Steve.