Stevey Y

Hi sounds like you need a service on the gearbox or the Mechatronics unit is on itsway out, you also need a new oxygen sensor. Steve.

Hi yes VCDS or OBD Eleven will do the job, the OBD is the cheaper option and just as effective it should identify the rogue injector and allow you to code the new injector, if you don't code the injector it will run rough, the superior scanner will also allow you to re adapt sensors and batteries as well as release the parking brake should you wish to change the pads, [brake service position] it will tell you which speed sensor is playing about, the list is endless, I can recommend OBD ELEVEN PRO as it covers multiple VINS on every vehicle in the VAG range, is all you need is a reasonably new Android phone and away you go. Welcome to the world of modern cars! Steve.

Hi you can't knock it until you have tried it, I have both VCDS and OBD ELEVEN, both have their shortcomings but by and large pound for pound the OBD ELEVEN has the edge as its cheaper, easier to use and virtually does the same as VCDS at a third of the price which for that money tripled the VCDS is only single VIN whereas the OBD is unlimited VINS. Steve.

Hi if the O2 sensor has collapsed the ECU will enter into protection strategy to stop any damage to the engine and cut emissions.

Hi if I were you I would invest in a better scan tool if you are going to start doing injector coding, the cheaper scanners tend to throw up erroneous codes as bless them they don't have the capacity for in depth interrogation. Steve.

Hi if you have to go replacement unit try Ebay loads of second hand and aftermarket which are a lot cheaper than the wallet Vampires A.K.A Audi main dealers.

Hi I am pleased you found the final solution, yes its a lot of money but at least you now have peace of mind and a warranty. Steve.

Hi its probably the dash pod problem this wont throw any codes but is a common problem the immobiliser is in with the clocks, best policy is remove it and send it away to be tested, lots of companies repair these units, the best one I have used is ECU Testing, might be worth giving them a call as they can advise you. Steve.

Hi its most likely the control stalk on the steering column, strip the cowling away and give it a squirt of contact cleaner whilst working the arm,[ignition off], if that wont work you will need a new control arm set these are joined to a plastic ring and I believe you can't change them individually. Steve.

Hi if the cam timing was out I would expect the engine to run badly, if your friend has checked everything to do with the belt and chain you can only re check the cam adjuster but a tooth out would be very noticeable thats why I am thinking sensor as if its original they can become blind and submit the wrong data.

Hi if you have done the rest of it I would strongly suspect the cam position sensor is throwing a wobbly

Hi take the rear light units out and check for power to the brake light bulb, with the aid of an assistant to press the pedal, no power will probably mean the switch on the pedal is faulty.

Hi they fail because the water for the washer flows back down the spindle and through the rubber grommet in the window, took me a while to work that out, so when you replace the motor also replace the grommet with a liberal coating of silicone grease, grommet is about £16.00 on Ebay, had three motors on mine but the last one was still good when the car went so the grommets definitely a winner.

PS the only electrical bit on the main pump is the baffle the rest is cam belt driven.

Hi as you look at the engine from the front its under the timing cover on the right hand side, you should see a wire coming out at the top of the r/h side thats the electrical connector for the pump baffle this operates by covering the impeller blades so that the engine warms up quicker, once up to temp the shield moves back and allows full flow via the impeller, the pump on the right of the engine is auxiliary and only comes into play when the engine is stopped in extremely high temps and continues to pump coolant round to stop the cylinder head from cracking.

Hi they are tamper proof screws they are normally drilled out but a word to the wise only touch anything in there while wearing latex gloves as the sweat on your fingers will kill things. Steve.

Hi get a swirl flap delete kit, loads on the internet. Steve.

Hi in three days anything up to 1 volt would be acceptable furthermore I can't find any logic in the statement that changing the timing belt would have any effect on the Adblue system as they couldn't be further away from each other, same as the earth from the moon, all dealers are the same but Audi taught the rest of the trade when it comes to being inventive when getting work in, the only parasitic drain with that lot will be on your wallet, now you have a new battery see how it goes, your mechanic sounds like a good guy. Steve.

Hi did you have this battery coded, if not the BEM will continue to charge at the same rate as the old battery which in record time will cook the new battery and kill it stone dead, seen a few like this in my time and its hard to convince people of the importance of battery coding, half an amp is not an unusual amount and if the battery is in good condition its sustainable, the batteries are massive, damage wise 10-11 volts will kill it. the Adblue control unit is b@ll@cks they either work or they don't as for powering down the whole car never does this as there are alarms, central locking. infotainment all in a low power sleep mode until you hit the unlocking button.

Hi the power spike is always there thats how the car checks its own electrics for things like diodes that have been fitted to airbag connections to shut the airbag light, myself I would be looking at the battery, what brand and has it been coded to the car properly, these vehicles are very twitchy about the kind of battery used and as an example my A6 had a new Yuasa battery just before the lockdown and sat for the first three weeks before I drove it anywhere. Steve.

Hi they are not that difficult if you observe the following you will need a deep socket and a low poundage/NM torque wrench and a can of plus gas, get the engine nice and hot and using the torque wrench set at no more than 30nm undo the plug if it wont move at that setting apply a liberal dose of plus gas and leave to soak for twenty mins, go on to the next plug with luck they will all give a little click and come loose [Do not force the plugs] as if you snap one they have to be removed by a professional removal tool, mucho deniro, when replacing coat the threads in a smear of Aluminium paste making sure not to get any on the heating element, when tightening the new plugs don't go more than 28nm. Steve.

Hi the heater matrix is possibly blocked or the thermostat is faulty [temp sensor] on the thermostat, I would be taking it back, I hope you didn't pay for all the other parts. Steve.

Hi Cliff its not a LI-ION battery LION is the brand and believe me they aint any good. Steve.

Hi what I was trying to point out is your car is petrol and is not fitted with glow plugs, you can't have a valid fault code for that which doesn't exist therefore it suggests its come from a generic scanner which I have often found to be the case, whereas manufacturer specific readers are often far more accurate. Steve.

Hi yes spend your money on an OBD Eleven reader then you can look at what you want whenever you want on your phone and not become a victim of overcharging garages, you will be able to tell them what the problem is. Steve.