Stevey Y

Hi it looks like the PCV valve has become broken/disconnected and is spraying crankcase gas and oil vapour over the engine, the part wont be that expensive and I should imagine about an hours labour easy fix. Steve.

Hi based on what you have posted it may well be the actuator, BUT I have seen this many times with Variable Vane Turbos, what happens is the vanes become sticky and can't open and close quickly this in turn knackers the actuator as its constantly trying against increased resistance to close the vanes therefore killing the actuator, easy way of checking the vanes is to chuck a spray can of Wynns turbo cleaner down the inlet ducting after the air box, if after treatment it runs better it will definitely be the vanes sticking, depending on the milage you may be better getting a new turbo as if you fit the new actuator you will soon be back to square one. Steve.

Hi sorry no cover, Fords used to do it but I think everyone learned from that, the ECU gets warm and a cover creates condensation which corrodes the units connections Steve.

Hi you can buy a decent Helli coil kit off of Ebay for about £30.00 doing the jobs easy enough. Steve.

Hi this is a perfect example of the lunacy that has taken over this country's establishments, they all want to jump on the bandwagon because everything is going up, isn't it, the main problem is electric cars especially the Audis as they started getting way past spiteful with the parts prices a couple of years ago, an insurance claims assessor I get in my cab regularly told me since we left Europe there has been an increasing difficulty in getting parts at a sane price, then when you get a good price they tell you its going to be anything up to six months to get that part, what used to take a week is now six months with a clause written in to say that they can put that price up to cover any extra shipping and taxes plus the part prices are double what anyone pays in Europe , this allied to the fact that no major repairer really wants to touch them makes it even more of a problem, even the salvage yards can't get rid of them, if you research wrecked Teslers in the U.S. they get basically sold for parts. Steve.

Hi only Audi can supply the update/new card hence the price, Waze is good until it meets the M25 in rush hour,LOL

Hi the only thing you will be missing is money from your bank account, there is an option to update the maps but there is a fairly hefty charge for that, if you want a really good sat nav buy a Garmin, I did and with free lifetime updates its a no brainer. Steve.

Hi can't see the logic with the recalibration as long as you don't un plug them they will stay in situ as they are not bonded to the screen, try scouting your local wlndscreen suppliers, I have used RAC windscreens numerous times and never had a problem. Steve.

Hi yes as after the car has been running and up to temperature the rubber boost pipes expand and become softer so any splits/bad joints start letting air out, my guess would be a split in any pipe from the turbo down its an easy spot as where the leak is will be oily and without getting yourself caught on anything you can usually feel the air escaping, the other way is get an empty spray bottle and fill it with water and a drop of washing up liquid, shake it up and spray the foam on the hoses, if its leaking you will soon see the foam move. Steve.

Hi being as you omitted to give if your car is petrol/diesel, if its diesel it might bee a boost pipe has split.

Hi yes it needs adaptation. Steve.

If you get it scanned for faults that will give you the answer, no good guessing the car will tell you what you need to know.

Hi no the only time it will struggle to start is in cold weather but generally speaking they will start anyway when the plugs are knackered because the fuel rail pressure is so high. Steve.

Hi was this what happened with the old unit, only reason I thought of the direction is that if its pumping against the natural flow that would lock it up but when you test it if there is no natural flow the unit will appear to operate as normal.

Hi not wishing to appear stupid but is the pump the right way round as it should have a flow arrow on it. Steve.

Hi might be worth bleeding the circuit as any air in the system will cause it to stop pumping as it registers pressure when it is working and will go to default [stop when no pressure is sensed], if you get the same temperature fault back on the MAF its knackered. Steve.

Hi both codes are glow plug related and I think the fuel rail pressure sensor fitting was coincidental to the problem you have now.

Hi don't think there is one as both items report back to the ECU with pulse signals, with regard to the pump you fitted [not that I ever changed one] is there anything on VCDS for adapting the new unit?, from the rest of your posts I would lean toward the MAF failing again, have you tried re adapting the MAF.

Hi I had the same a couple of years ago with four clutch master cylinders all failing within a couple of months, finally bought a genuine LUK unit from ECP and that cured it, I think in an effort to make money they have been buying cheaper elsewhere to bump up profits, I don't blame you for getting rid, I was heartbroken when my one terminated itself back in January when the electronic handbrake let go and it rolled into a brick wall, l have now bought a VW Passat nice and simple as it doesn't throw up a light for every event, brilliant on diesel and adblu the bonus being any new quality branded parts are about a third of the price, example Brembo pads and rear discs £105 the set, the Audi was over £200 for the discs and another £70 for the pads, done 10k since beginning of Feb and then Passat has not missed a beat. Steve.

Hi I would leave the pump at the front that is an auxiliary pump that only works in excessively hot weather when the vehicle is stopped it pumps coolant around the circuit to stop the red hot coolant from cooking the cylinder head, worst ways just clean its connections with contact cleaner.

Hi P2002 is the low pressure EGR cooler have a look on the site archives this is well documented the cooler gets blocked with adblue crystals and fails its a horror to replace its not the parts so much as the labour charges, the other one is the MAP sensor which is cheap and easy to change.

Hi yes can be fixed and yes thy are connected, new glow plugs required, I would get a delete kit for the swirl flaps inside the inlet manifold and see if that cures the boost pressure control unit on the turbo if not you may well need a new turbo. Steve.

Hi the MAP sensor has no facilities to measure air temperature as it is the same as the DPF sensors it measures barometric pressures, the two air temperature readings come from the MAF and the Air charge temp sensor, these compare the air temperature going in, the MAF, and the temperature of the air going in to the manifold as the compressed air from the turbo is somewhat hotter than the air going into the MAF between the two they work out what is acceptable within the boundaries of its strategy limits, as for the pump is it the aluminium one to the R/H side of the engine bay, if you could post a picture that would be helpful, only one other question when you replaced the MAF was it an oe Bosch unit as I tried two much cheaper aftermarket MAFs and both failed in short order, ended up buying Bosch again and that cured my problems. Steve.

Hi if you have filled it up get the level reset that normally cures the problem. Steve.

Hi the hose idea wont work as tap water has a much higher surface tension than rain water, so borrow a watering cans worth out of a neighbours water butt or use distilled water. Steve.