Stevey Y

Hi I hate to tell you this but transmission fluid does get very hot despite not being part of the combustion process, its called kinetic friction the base material is the same as engine oil but is heavily refined to a point where its thinner and has more of a propensity towards a hydraulic state then additives are employed to enhance the hydraulic properties as well as the rapid cooling properties of the fluid, after a suitable period or milage the additives break down and via the heat from the gear meshing and being pressurised through small detent valves the fluid looses its viscosity and also changes colour, it has nothing to do with abusers driving the car to hard, its all to do with ambient temperatures over a given time or milage, do you think that would be a selling point in a dealers, sorry sir you can't drive this 400hp flying machine fast for any length of time because you might wear the gearbox fluid out. Engine oil is a completely different product although it comes from the same base product its additives are designed in such a way to protect internal components and the additives involved allow it to do this at a much higher thermal grade whilst absorbing the moisture from the combustion process along with the carbon within that water, sorry but its a one way street, the engine wont burn sump oil unless your oil rings are knackered in which case it will kill your catalytic converter in record time as engine oil when exposed to super heat will crack and revert back to hard carbon unless its fully synthetic in which case it just coats the cat core in a slime that totally negates the function of the precious metals such as palladium which convert the harmful gases in the exhaust stream.

Hi Andy thank you for the update it gives the forum value and continuity. Steve.

Hi quite the opposite in fact, my daughters Q3 2013 my friends 2020 BMW his sisters 2021 Mercedes GLA and finally my 2021 VW Passat, as for your statement about transmission fluid not being an oil I can only conclude that the college Bmec fluid and gas disciplines course I took was a waste of time and money and the lecturers were talking b@ll@cks, therefore I must bow to your superior experience on one vehicle and opinion on Trash cars which you have neither seen or driven.

Hi if its remanufactured in the uk it has to pass stringent safety and durability tests therefore it has to be as good as original, it will have had a new piston and seals as well as oil/gas. Steve.

Hi get the battery checked at your local garage/Halfords start with the easy bit then work it forward from there, the next option is a scan and see which fault codes appear, if its not the battery it may well be a bad connection on the module under the seat/carpet. Steve.

Hi you should have a look at some of the boxes I have emptied out, the oil which it sis has a viscosity rating and definitely burns and turns from red or green to black, you also loose some as vapour via the vent otherwise the pressure would build up and start causing the seals to fail.

Hi sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings but definitely not.

Hi probably the battery is on its way out, you said the lights go when driven therefore its getting more charge, sounds like a classic case of a failing battery thats not holding its charge. Steve.

Hi could be a battery related thing is it the original?. Steve.

Hi in theory that would bring the whole lot right down as the S Line is 25mm lower than standard, not sure how much extra strain will be put on the bushes on the suspension itself but best policy would be get it on a old fashioned hydraulic ramp after fitting spring and with the car at its ride height slacken off the bush locking bolts and then re tighten, then get the alignment done on a Hunter 4 wheel alignment system to adjust the castor and camber to prevent erratic tyre wear. Steve.

Hi my thoughts are that it is the position sensor on the actual throttle pedal itself, drawn to that conclusion by the new throttle body not working, sounds as though the sensor is sending wear related corrupt position signals. Steve.

Hi interesting, I can see where its going with the rotation of the purple bit as you say thats probably the adjustment for contact with the pedal, only other thing I can suggest is removing the clip on the left side which is holding the wiring and see if the whole unit moves down. Steve.

Hi never changed one myself but looking at it have you tried pulling the two purple tags out, its just the have a couple of things like this on the car in the engine bay and they pull out to release before you can rotate the unit. Steve.

Hi Gareth considering the part is only about £25 makes you wonder if thats not bad for about an hours work, including tea. Steve.

Hi I would personally get it back to the dealer ASAP and ask them where the port is located, you do have one the car would not run without it as its also part of the Can bus Gateway, furthermore I don't know which scanner you have but I doubt it would communicate with the car as most cars 2020 on are equipped with SFD which is a firewall, have a look at OBDeleven thats what I had to purchase to get around the SFD ON MY 2021 VW Passat. Steve

Hi as far as I am aware the only way of checking the gear oil level is via the filler port/bolt, the oil and any associated filters should be changed every thirty thousand miles or two years. Steve

Thanks Gareth did not spot that one the second thread is probably out of impatience, usual M.O. Steve.

Hi milage, it may well get you a considered opinion if you stated the actual milage as peoples perception of high milage is a pretty broad church, some consider 120k + as unacceptable it all hinges on service history etc. Steve.

Hi halogen lights are cheaper until you get in to the coding and wiring changes, you might be better served buying second hand apart from that the majority of people want xenons because the light output is far superior, you may well spend a lot of money to fit halogen lamps only to be disappointed when you can't see as well. Steve.

Hi I hope you bought the three seals as well, radial shaft seal that goes in the slave cylinder, the driveshaft seal for the diff side, you have to take the diff cover off to get at it, then we have the crankshaft seal behind the flywheel and ring gear if thats leaking thats a whole new level, no point in dodging it as it just gets worse and coats the friction plate in engine oil, bit of advice put a bit of plastic over the brake fluid reservoir before !Removed! the lid back on and wrap the end of the pipe in clingfilm when you remove it from the slave cylinder, finally you have to put a bungee on the clutch pedal to stop it falling on the floor, this also stops fluid loss via the master cylinder which iff allowed to travel to the end of the cylinder body will ruin the piston seal so you will need a new one of those as well, I hope you have a four poster to use as the gearbox weighs a ton it took three of us to lift it off of the gearbox jack. Steve.

Hi Wayne I don't think its the relay it is most likely the motor, because they are a cr@p design and fail frequently over the 190k I had the car I went through three rear motors all with different symptoms of failure, constant running, parking of wiper arm in multiple positions, no wiper at all, this is due to water ingress in to the control box PCB, never changed the relay ever, but if you use reverse logic if it works why is the relay at fault, most common symptoms of relay failure are, intermittent function or no function at all. Steve.

Hi take the screw out of the other side most motor motor parts stores will be able to match it. Steve.

Hi its just a standard screw fitted to any Audi, is all it does is keep the disc in place so if the pad off position is loose the disc can't move round and block the bolt holes. Steve.

Hi they are always a pain as the water from the washer rots everything try a good soak in plusgas then use a deep socket, other than that its a new motor. Steve

Hi probably something failed in the dash pod, only way round is whip it out and send it off for repair.