Stevey Y

Hi David, you will often find the spare key battery is in a worse state than the one you use as the batteries run down quickly when not used, if you change the batteries in both fobs and still have the same problem the chances are that the pick up ring that circles the key port is intermittently not getting the right information from the transducer in the key fob. Steve.

Hi go find a decent independent if not covered by warranty usually around a grand. Steve.

Hi you wont get rid of this one easily its either the sensor heading east or my humble guess it needs a software update. Steve.

Hi try changing the key fob battery that is often the cause. Steve.

Hi Colin it would be better to establish if these are original headlights or retrofit/aftermarket, the way to do this is inspect the top of the units with the bonnet up, if they are factory there will be a sticker on top with the part code if thats present it may well be as simple as a wiring fault, please post some pictures that would be a great help. Steve.

Even if you are trying to fit an H4 bulb in to an H7 mounting, the mountings are completely different and so are the connections, one uses twin prong connections and the other uses try prong connections, while you are there why not think of something else he can buy as an ornament.

Hi from your description I would guess its either lower arm rear bush or a drop link or anti roll bar bushes. Steve.

Hi Gareth, I doubt you will get an answer, this will disappear into cyberspace he obviously dislikes having to explain his statements or expanding on them, he unlike us mere mortals manages to see things in the posts we don't, shame we only see the obvious in the information supplied. Steve.

Hi sounds like you have done all the basics, well done, please report the end result as it makes good reading for anyone with the same problem in the future. Steve.

Your ignorance of braking systems is breathtaking, no one uses copper grease on the backs of brake pads as they come with a thermo rubber coating on the back, this attaches itself to the piston, especially on rear callipers and the other slave side of the calliper, provided both sides are clean when assembled the coating heats and becomes soft allowing both sides to embed slightly, so when the whole thing cools after first use the pads become semi attached to their mating surface points, this means when the piston retracts both pads will follow the mating surfaces back to their protocol positions, [START], furthermore it also stops brake squeal. You seem to have a surfeit of Americanisms which I believe may be a product of to much YouTube/Google, in thirty odd years with cars we have always called them DISCS.

Thanks. Hi you can just separate the two with the original connection left plugged in I have always done this in the past as some of the cheaper units have had problems with the electronics in the drive motor, I have been thinking very hard on this and have another possible solution, when you said the calliper was binding did you mean that the wheel resists being turned by hand with the car jacked up and no parking brake?, if so check the following before condemning the calliper, there are slider pins on the top and bottom of the unit these are in a rubber boot assembly, retract the the EPB and take the securing bolts out, with the calliper clear test the movement of the pins in the rubber boots there should be very little resistance to you pulling them in and out, if there is chances are the pins are dry or worn and will hold one side of the pad set on normally the piston side, repair kits are plentiful and cheap, the other consideration is how long have the old pads been in situ as I have found through experience that on cars that only do average milage over years the pad location runners tend to corrode to the carrier so the piston side wears faster as the crud on the outer runners prevent the outer pad from pulling in as much so its all on the piston side, so worth stripping and cleaning as it may well cure your problem without the need for a new calliper, brake fluid change highly recommended. Steve.

Hi I don't know who gave you that information but its not correct as the filter is on the drivers side at the back of the car, aluminium casing with at least three rubber hoses attached. Steve.

Hi Mark what you have posted is a picture of the drive motor code but I expect Jason already knew that but forgot to mention it, if your new calipers have the drive motor attached they should be plug in and play as most aftermarket rigs like this are fitted with an electrical shunt, you could always use the callipers without the motors if yours are working ok and just bolt your motors to the new caliper these units tend to be a lot cheaper.

Hi most motor factors sell the stuff but I have found the Ford sump sealant is the best, its a bit more money but when it never leaks again, thats where the extra money went. Steve.

Hi I very much doubt there will be any updates for your car for at least another eighteen months as they only write updates and issue them to rectify oncoming problems over time and milage.

Hi could well be a MAP/MAF sensor but thats an educated guess, you can't pin a fault down without scanning the car for codes, thats the golden key to unlocking your problems, from your description that prolonged acceleration causes this I would assume that one or more of the emissions sensors is breaking down, therefore a scan and reading of live data will pin point the cause. Steve.

Hi you may get lucky and the fan control pack is bolted on AKA hybrid and for reasons only known to Audi on some models its all one unit with the fans, either way unless you purchase from Audi the parts are pretty cheap as a lot of companies have stock for the older cars stuck up their backside so are pleased to get rid at a decent price, example I did a replacement pack on my mates 2013 Transit Frauds wanted over £400 for the unit, eventually got one for £140 with a two year guarantee and talking to the guy they used to supply Fords when they ran low on stock from Brazil.

Hi glad you got some resolution, well thought out plan, the lease should take up to 80c. Steve.

Hi its most likely the glow plugs from the symptoms you describe so it wont matter how long you leave the cycle just get them changed, they are cheap enough to buy and will make life a lot easier, as for diesel freezing that problem went in the early fifties and it was known as waxing where one of the components within the fuel separated and became like lard, modern diesel does not freeze due to the anti waxing and antifreeze additives, if you look at North America and places like Russia that suffer -40 degrees they all run around on good old standard diesel with the only addition of a temp monitor at the tank out feed.

Hi a hard reset used to work on old Fords and most likely on Audis fry the BEM module which wont be the source of a parasitic drain, the idea of putting a new BEM number in is to let the monitor know it is dealing with a new battery therefore it will charge at a lower rate so it wont cook your new battery, as for losing the map, the ECU on a car is one of the more expensive items, they don't fit ECUs that are specific to one model instead they build a unit with multiple map layers to accommodate the different engine types I.E. 1.0, 2.0 etc if you unplug the ECU you still wont lose the map as its embedded over your existing map from factory, thats why if you want the map removed you have to go back to the map originator to have it removed.

Hi yes the matrix would cause this as the heater is fed from a bypass before the thermostat so the car gets warm air quickly from starting, think I remember reading that the way the system is designed it is prone to clogging as it is not high pressure enough to clear naturally occurring debris in the water system, would also suggest a new expansion tank while your at it.

Hi the ballast and bulb are easy to change the headlight can be dried out once the bulb is removed with a hot air gun, removal of the unit is not to much of a drama as you can take th bumper fixings off that side and just pull the bumper back enough to get at the lower fixing on the unit, I did this on my A6 as I had to fit a new head light because the DRL had failed.

Hi perhaps you would like to expand on a few circuits, you have completely missed the point of the guys post the fact that the car is still not getting up to running temp with or without the fans, I completely agree with Cliff/ Gareth that solving one problem at a time and once the car starts achieving its proper temp, then worry about turning the fans off, the problem I suspect is a faulty fan control unit, the silver box on the fan pack and as they are both running and he can't turn the air con off that is the most likely culprit, as for wind chill the guy lives in Sussex not Siberia, my car used to take a while to warm up at temps around +2 and as soon as the ambient temp got to +5-6 it got very warm, are you a salesman for YouTube sites as they are only worth looking at once you have established the problem, a very wise man I studied under once said, you can spend a lot of money and time trying to cure the the effects of a fault but you really should spend the same time and money curing the root cause.

Hi they are all the same, in my experience failure of the alternator clutch is rare but if it should occur changing the whole unit is best policy as they tend to last the lifetime of the unit they are on, different if the car has only done 30k and the alternator is good but the only effective way of removal is to take the alternator out then struggle for hours trying to get the old clutch off. Steve.

Hi if they do the service properly and take the sump plug out the brush head will fall out anyway, easy way out is if it is billed with a new plug fitted ask them if they found anything else in the tray as its a family heirloom.