Stevey Y

Hi nice to find another member that knows their fuel, I learned this long ago from a petro chemist I had in my cab, cetane / octane use of additives can only do more good than harm as they in moderation increase both, its all about increasing thermal burn rate which in real terms actually means lowing it down so it burns more efficiently leaving less unburnt fuel, more bang for your buck, supermarket fuel is blended down using fillers and detergent this gives more volume to the saleable amount IE 20000 litres is increased by 20%, but because detergent is water based it burns far less efficiently leaving more unburnt fuel and moisture which leaves all that sticky tar in the EGR valves on petrol and diesel, further problem being nearly all engines are direct injection so the recycled gas tends to coat the inlet valve backs therefore more sticky gunge in the stream will eventually exacerbate the problem, good dry efficient burn is good, sticky wet moisture laden bad burn is not. Steve.

Hi NO most O.E. parts are BOSCH, NGK, FEBI, just packaged in an Audi box at twice the price, you will be safe with any make basically as long as it is not Chinese.

Hi its definitely not dangerous, it looks like you would have to replace the filler neck backing which is quite a faff, personally I would wait for a dryad give it all a good clean with brake/carb cleaner and then treat it to a blob of Tiger Seal and smoothie over with a teaspoon and white spirit. Steve.

Well Einstein anyone who has ever had a headlight apart will tell you there is a cooling fan on the rear of the bulbs built into the control casing to cool the pcb there has never been a fan unit to clear the condensation, the bulb fan is a very slow moving affair which concentrates on removing heat from the electrics and is aimed toward the rear of the unit so how will that clear the condensation from the lens if the small amount of heat is at the back and blown towards the breather,

I bought myself one of those induction heaters that only heats the bolt and nothing else, wicked bit of kit and at £130 best thing I have ever bought, used it a lot on the missus Alfa Mito they I think were made with pre rusted bolts.

Hi when it comes to calliper carriers judicious use of a blowtorch normally sorts it.

Hi I wish you all the best, please post the outcome, if its the rears just give the bolts a soak in plusgas before undoing it helps with the crud on the threads.

Hi a four point lift is great if you can get one as you have unrestricted access to the underneath and its a lot easier working standing rather than laying/sitting on floor, this will only give you arthritis or piles.

Hi have you tried changing the MAP and MAF as I have seen this before, similar symptoms when they are not communicating and it wont necessarily throw a code, you mentioned the throttle pedal replacement so it might be worth checking the condition of the throttle body as a sticky butterfly will cause no end of problems. Steve.

Hi a couple of six inch lengths of 4x2 wood between the axle stand and the cross member the stands dig in to the wood thats good for movement protection the other side spreads the load across the member.

Hi a fan inside, thats a new one, what a load of Scallops, there is no such thing its just wrong and thats it.

Hi yes normally O2 sensors need changing every 80k or five years if yours is the original I think you can safely say its had its fun. Steve.

Hi I very much doubt it has spacers as they are not factory fitted and my colleague who trades used cars informs me that when they buy from the auction site near me after purchase the wheels are stripped off and the brakes inspected/replaced within the guidelines of the motor trade sale of goods requirements, any spacers are discarded as they were not factory fitted and at most are 4mm and mostly found on aftermarket wheels, the spacers are to correct the wheel offset back to factory tolerances either way they use the existing bolts as these are within spec for the manufacturers 7mm requirement, I think you must be confusing the VAG globalisation policy as you mentioned Triumph Stags which were British Leyland who had different wheel bolts for every model and wheel, this outmoded practice has been scrapped by VAG as every model using the same 17mm bolt is the same, hence globalisation, one part fits ALL.

Hi can't work out your thinking, you were right about the bolts going into the disc but it will only be going in to the hub boss and no where near the friction surface, the hub flange has to be at least two inches from the bearing housing so worse ways the bolts would only go in an extra 5mm, with the advent of space savers in Europe type approval dictated you could use the same bolts within a 7mm tolerance to accommodate the tin wheel, allied to the fact that most alloy wheels have recessed holes to counter the bite distance between the wheel and flange there fore an extra 5mm of thread wont foul anything.

Hi I removed the two heater connections at the bulkhead and let it have it both ways with a jet wash through the metal tubes that run to the matrix, if its a tight fit find a suitable piece of rubber hose and connect that, alternatively disconnect one side from the matrix and the the header tank cap off then flush it from the disconnected hose, jet wash is better as it blasts the cr@p out, I really would recommend changing the thermostat as mine was about 2mm open and stuck so most of the hot water was going out of the bypass system and not through the matrix.

Hi had the same problem with my A6 but the principles are the same, had to change the thermostat and back flush the heater matrix because the silica bag in the header tank had burst and the crystals were blocking one side of the heater matrix. Steve.

Hi hope he is OK not nice but my guess is its the cylinder let go and squirted brake fluid on to something hot or electrical live, brake fluid only has a flash point of 7c.

Thats fine by me

Hi most likely culprit is the clutch master cylinder this has a clutch position sensor on top of it and is part of the master cylinder, as the cylinder wears it measures the amount of fluid going past it and if its not within range it plays up, best policy is get the car scanned and see which faults come up.

Hi the bulbs are easy to change, the condensation occurs for the following reasons, the vent tube on the side of the unit has either blocked or fallen off, the bulb cover seal has lost its elasticity and failed, the cover is accessible by the inspection port in the wheel arch liner, take it off then with the cover removed on the unit use the hairdryer, clear all debris from the mating surface between the bulb housing and cover finally give the rubber seal a good coating of silicone grease. Steve.

Hi if you could be bothered to do the leg work the information you require is already there I cite the case of jdragon who posted a copies amount of information about his DPF, A5 Q5 A6 A4 all use the same engine but with different engine designations,CNHA DETA etc but the common denominator is they all run the same SCR system that is prone to blocking the low pressure EGR cooler, even if you had googled it that would have produced multiple pages on the subject, p2002 DPF trap 1 above threshold, this job is expensive around a grand, when you buy a second hand Audi it should be observed that this anomaly will occur at some point during your ownership due to Adblue crystals blocking it the only preventative maintenance is use good quality Adblue/fuel and a proprietary fuel additive, with reference to the views how are people find out what you require without looking at the post, maybe they looked and didn't have any experience of the problems and moved on without posting something stupid in reply, what annoys me most is people posting on a subject without the most basic research pertaining to problems they may encounter, they then expect a spoon fed reply, mostly because its FREE their sense of entitlement is breathtaking, it comes under the sub heading of educating yourself, even if you had posted P2002 might that happen to the car I am about to purchase that would maybe get a response, this is a good forum where people will only either post based on experience or at least give an educated guess, I personally have learned from this forum and can concur with the theory that why spend time and effort telling you about a problem that may never occur during your ownership if its got no real milage and you are likely to do not a great deal more during your ownership.

Hi as I said a scan will throw up a definitive answer, a code is the clue to fixing this.

Hi jason, the means of priming the new filter is once fitted turn the the ignition on without starting the car and leave for 20 seconds then turn off repeat this procedure at least ten times then it will start, the lift pump fills the filter, as for purging the HPFP this has not been necessary since 2004 when all manufacturers converted over to the self bleeding HPFP which dissipates any air in the unit via the return circuit on the pump which sends air bubbles back to the tank. Steve.

Hi the only way you will find out what this is will be to get the vehicle scanned preferably with VCDS as this will tell you the why and what the offending part is, might be something as simple as readapting it or a software update.