Stevey Y

Hi it could be the level sensor as Steve said these are attached to the lift pump in the rear under the rear seat I believe and are prone to getting perforated or the level sensor itself is faulty, try taking the pump out and lifting the float manually to see if the light goes out, if not it is because the graduation unit [electrical] has given up the ghost in which case it all comes as one unit. Steve.

Hi no such thing as a normal Audi parts quote or labour come to that and being as they source the parts from outside suppliers Bosch/Valeo it might be worth getting the part number and having a trawl on the net its probably less than half price they want. Steve.

Hi they only did front wheel drive/Quattro, if it is a Quattro it will have a badge to that effect on the tailgate other than that look underneath for a prop shaft which goes to the rear Haldex unit it will also have driveshafts on the rear, why not if its manual, in my considered opinion the manual box is better and you get far less problems than the power robbing auto units. Steve.

Hi did you recode the new battery to the car. Steve.

Hi think the unit will have to be re coded to the car unless its the same part number as the old unit. Steve.

Hi hopefully it was a good brand AGM battery you replaced it with other than that it could be the battery energy module gone wonky, best policy is get the car scanned for faults you may get a better idea of whats going on especially if they clear the old and new codes after as sometimes they will reappear as the ECU has logged them. Steve.

Hi sorry for the late reply but I had to do some research my end, the battery charge oscillation is quite normal as when it assesses the battery is nearly at full charge it starts cutting back so it wont overcharge, as for the starting problem the general consensus is that its the fuel supply, could be the lift pump in the tank they become weaker with age and are prone to this type of problem as when warm they don't pump the fuel as efficiently. Steve.

Hi if its both discs its probably the wrong thickness discs, if its one side only its a seized calliper so you will have to replace that and the flexible hose as they have a habit of collapsing internally and holding the piston in the calliper on and then the heat kills the calliper. Steve.

Hi sounds like an earthing problem or the latching system is sticking, try it from the boot release on the tailgate but push the boot lid down whilst activating the release pad then still holding the release pad pull the lid up. Steve.

Hi Al thats nailed it if the throttle butterfly is sticking that would be your air leak [white smoke], take it off and try cleaning it I bet the butterfly is covered in black crud the circuit high bit is where its using all the power within its operating band to move the butterfly, which means it can't easily reach its idle protocol and will then stick open, worth having the gearbox cover off to check for broken gear teeth as they are made of nylon. Steve.

Hi Al could be the engine mounts as they are Hydro bushes these normally play up when they start loosing oil I know mine did check them out, white smoke is normally an air leak. Steve.

Hi wipe the codes and see what re emerges, the dates look pretty old or is that a quirk of your computer, sometimes the modules become clogged with redundant info and need clearing but if you clear all codes only the ones that are relevant should reappear, the headlight range module is a bit strange as I am assuming your model will have levelling sensors on the front and rear. Steve.

Hi how many miles do you do a week, mixed driving, town driving, motorway and do you know what the code was that put the light on, my guess is P2002 which is a whole different problem. Steve.

Hi some pictures may well generate some interest. Steve.

Hi the sealed bit is a load of garbage, they only ever did a sealed gearbox 2009-2011 with catastrophic results, Ford did a sealed box on the early MK4 Mondeo it was designated power shift and was a huge failure, when I asked the dealer when I first got my car at 38k the exact term was gearbox is FILLED FOR LIFE, then emailed Audi in Germany who said, No change the oil every 50k or five years, if you think about it all that high grade sintered steel flying about in a bath of oil with the occasional bit flying off which is suspended in the oil until it by force of gravity hits the bottom of the casing, now imagine the same scenario with burnt worn oil, believe me it wont end well, I change my oil every year and as you said add SLIK50 you can't go wrong with that and a couple of bottles of Fuchs Titan, new box [manual] is just over five grand +fitting, DONT GO THERE. Steve.

Hi the specialist is probably right its the fuel especially if you have used E10 or supermarket fuel, a coil pack would definitely throw a code. Steve.

Hi good pics and there is no real reason why you wont replicate that experience barring MR KHAN making the ring part of the 406, how's the rebuild going. Steve.

Hi now would be a good time to change the gear oil and filters if its Auto and just the oil if its manual, the entry for the water I have no idea but if you can drain it invest in a Waxoyl kit and using the hose supplied Waxoyl the sills to death through the drain holes. Steve.

Hi the rear spring is a fail the timing belt is not a fail but will ruin the engine if it snaps, any idea when the last change was, you can't tell by looking at it the change is based on time or milage, the fuel filter is not a failure nor is the pollen filter and the throttle body, the engine light isa fail so I personally would get another garage to scan it for faultsand go from there, if you post the codes we can help with that. Steve.

Hi Mike still fascinated to know how the EGR gas made it in to an air box system that only allows air in one way, in being the operative term, I have in the past changed filter elements at about 2k-1 month when they have the hay wagons out during the harvest in Autumn, drive behind anything that smokes and is diesel for a couple of miles and that will soon foul it up thats the idea of a filter, ergo the rule of change once a year or with every service whichever comes first. Steve.

Hi much as I hate to dispute the EGR flow theory, Darrel is talking Scallops as the EGR flow has no way of back feeding into the air box, what you have there is a years worth of airborne contaminants, the most obvious thing being that exhaust gas is very, very hot and if it was coming back to the filter it would melt the whole thing in short order, I have even seen blocked DPF units that have had holes burnt into them where the hot gas has burnt through a carbonised steel casing to escape, allied to the fact your EGR was blocked and the gas is injected further down the stream before the throttle how was it getting all the way back through the intercooler past the opposing cooled air and back up to the induction trunking, sounds like a bit of a fairy story. If I wanted injectors I would try United Diesels with 30 years plus in the game they are a safe bet. Steve.

Hi thats a waste of time they will only tell you that A its changed at the fitters visual inspection B no one requested a change, their attitude is !Removed! as they are all franchises and charge the non changed filter every time to the parent company, £150.00 for an oil and filter change really?, they all lie without thinking about it which is why I do all my own servicing, sorry to tell you this but you are going to have to swallow this one, Audi service history is worth less than a Tescos premium bog roll, I change all my filters and oil at 9k as dirty filters and oil cause the degradation in the mechanical areas at an alarming rate, here's a picture of my air filter at 9k spot the new one both filters are Bosch which are much cheaper than the stuff in badge engineered Audi boxes, must be doing something right the cars at nearly 170k. Steve.

Hi the only way to find out is have the car scanned for codes, absent any codes have the coolant system pressure tested, unfortunately it sound like a head gasket has a small leak between a water and oil gallery. Steve.

Hi no you will have to replace the filter housing, other than that put the union back in with something like liquid metal and make sure the reciprocating thread on the housing is ultra clean and dry before attempting this. Steve.

Hi did you have the new battery coded to the car, if you don't have that done when fitted the car overcharges because it thinks it still has the old unit in it therefore killing the new unit double quick. Steve.