Stevey Y

Hi I think you are paying extra for the different seats and the badges, check the power outputs and I bet near as damn they are the same. Steve.

Hi the code you have is for low fuel pressure which is normally one of the pumps but being as you have changed them that rules them out I think the noise you have is the fuel pressure solenoid on the fuel rail these rattle when worn and won't hold the pressure in the fuel rail. Steve.

Hi only if you buy the control module as well and then recode it to your car with VCDS. Steve.

Hi its an opinion based on FACT not something thats come off of YouTube, allied to the fact that the opinion comes from myself who uses more Adblue/oil in a year than you would in ten years its a fair probability that having had no problems with either and the poster has the same car, it will work well. Steve.

Hi there are a world of aftermarket alleged upgrades most will cause some sort of problem weak mixture/ overfuel during cold weather etc, if you look at the manufacturers point of view why spend loads of money developing a system that works when you could use cheaper cone filters and silicone pipework and spend more on wide band sensors to cope with the fluctuations of that system. Steve.

Hi the information I gave came from a BMW technician and most types of higher purity adblue already has anti crystal additive in it, BUT as it ages it loses its protection that is why most manufacturers recommend a complete drain down and flush every two years for low milage vehicles. Steve.

Hi you have to wait for the light to come on then add ten litres, personally I have found the best one is Yara from Halfords and apparently is the purest available, its in 3.5 litre pouches and its spout system ensures minimal spill unlike a lot of the brands I have used, leaving it until the light is on ensures you have used the existing fill and helps prevent crystals which kills the system. Steve.

Hi on your year of car deleting the DPF is not that big a deal, first came across Cordierite with one of my early cabs MK4 Mondeo, bought an aftermarket DPF for £600, it was a bit of a faf getting it adapted to the car but it went in eventually, BUT it then proceeded to regenerate every 40 miles not good, tried everything but no joy, finally contacted Ford who announced they did refurbished units with a years warranty £360 so I bought one, another 100k and two years no problems, enquired with a Ford tech from Dunton and he explained the difference between OE and aftermarket, on the aftermarket units the soot/ash accumulation chambers are smaller allied to the cordierite core it tells the ECU its blocked or like mine does about 20 regens a night. Steve.

Hi was it an original DPF or aftermarket as over my lifetime I have witnessed a host of problems with the aftermarket variety mainly because aftermarket use cordierite cores rather than SIC cores cordierite is cheaper and more dense which makes the pressure sensor think its blocked. Steve.

Hi someone has changed the wiring to bypass the standard foglight circuit so somewhere further up the wiring the live is obtained from a pulse signal from the indicator/steering angle module this has effectively turned the fogs into cornering lights, the modules you describe are possibly can bus links, I also think its worth checking the DRLs as a lot of this stuff uses a can bus link from them to power that type of stuff, its a real problem when an unknown has wired in a load of Chinese junk on the cheap, you can tell that by the use of scotch lock to join the wiring anyone who is even halfway proficient with wiring will tell you those things expose the unsheathed wire to the elements which then causes corrosion which creeps under the sheathing and causes conductivity issues, a genuine good job would be soldered and then shrink tubed after the same as the joints either side of the module, unless you are cute with reading wiring diagrams I fear you may need an auto electrician to sort this one. Steve.

Hi sorry to state the obvious but would you not be better asking the company you buy the unit from as they should be able to advise/supply the appropriate hose. Steve.

Hi have you tried checking that the foglight bulbs work as on a car that age the units are possibly corroded which would cause problems via bad earth with the other lights. Steve.

Hi think its under the centre console by the gear stick most of the yaw sensors and lateral acceleration sensors are mounted on the centre line of the car and will be grouped in the same housing. Steve.

Hi you could try Nexen NFera in a 101 Y I use these on my cab and have had good milage and even wear, funny thing is I was badgered into using Michellin Primacy last time and they lasted 4k less than the Nexen tyres which as a pair are a third less expensive. Steve.

Hi if you do the sums it should be on its third belt by rule of 80k or 5years, you can't tell by looking at it and Dayco is aftermarket premium the OE is INA, but from my analysis of the photos it doesn't look that new therefore from a personal perspective I would change it absent any documentation to prove otherwise, when you consider the alternative of the repair bill if it lets go a replacement is a lot cheaper. Steve.

Hi if you tell us what you are trying to fix maybe someone on here has had the same problem and may be able to point you to the right place, always found the owners hand book is a good guide. Steve.

Don't hold your breath. Steve.

Hi you will have to get the car read for DTCs to get the answer, its normally emissions related. Steve.

Hi I really would not trust that bunch, I put my reg in to see what they came up with by way of options so, apparently my car is a Mercedes saloon and not an A6 Avant so that prompts the thought what else could they get wrong. Steve.

Hi its quite likely the fuel rail pressure sensor is knackered and the spring inside has become weak and won't hold the pressure so it just flaps backwards and forwards which is the noise you are hearing, they are simple to replace and not that expensive to buy, use the part number on your original unit on eBay I have no doubt there are loads on there, just make sure you leave the car a few hours before replacement to allow the rail to de pressurise. Steve.

Hi I don't think you are going to get many takers for this one as they changed the software from late 2019 as well as the diagnostic platform, IDOS the latest version of which asks each element for a reciprocation code and if it don't get it will block that part of the program, so being as the whole system is connected to the Audi mainframe so head office always knows whats going on with the car they sold you. Steve.

HI Eric it won't matter how many people look at it the fact remains that they are not compatible with your car unless you get an auto electrician to look at it with a view to changing the wiring, have you contacted the company that supplied the units to ask if they were intended as plug in and play, I am fishing in the dark here so do you have a link for the supplier and where did you buy them from, my guess from the advert you posted that they are Chinese. Steve.

Hi the xenon lights are shuttered so main beam is facilitated by a signal which causes the shutter to lower from dipped to main beam through the same lense as you say the other light is the adaptive part and unless you have a can bus link cable I can't see that the new light will work especially as you are already getting light error codes without rewiring and then you have the problem that the lighting control module won't recognise the new light units, these are DEFINITLEY NOT plug in and play. Steve.

Hi you need to post pictures of the front of the headlight instead of the two plug connectors on the back, otherwise scant see what the difference is between the lense arrangement. Steve.

Hi you can see from your photo that the circular bush is tearing the plastic collar away from its mounting, its had it, I did mention it was a grotty job but is doable, I did the same and removed the subframe got the old bushes out by cutting the nylon collar with a hacksaw blade then cleaned the surface of the mounting hole and gave the hole a good coating of silicon grease, I used a large jubilee clip to compress the bush about 5mm from the entry edge once I had it started and it was in down to the clip I moved the clip again and beat it in with the rubber mallet I used on the first stage, once its 10mmm or so in just get a flat piece of wood and slowly tap it the rest of the way in, it takes time unless you fork out for the bush tool which aint cheap. Steve.