Stevey Y

Hi you would be better off investing your money elsewhere buy buying your own diagnostic set up as is all AUDI want is your money on the drip, you wont get anything from it other than massive repair bills, find a decent independent as anything to do with main dealers is TOXIC. Steve.

Hi depending on when you purchased the car you can go to trading standards and they may pick up the flag and petition them under the fit for purpose act, Audi wont care but if you also email VAG customer service they may well help you as they are not fans of this type of thing, I did the same last year when one of their approved franchise TPS were running me ragged over a part, the car was suspended on a four poster ramp for four days waiting for the part which was already paid for and was suddenly on back order three weeks so I emailed VAG customer services and explained my problem and dissatisfaction, the next day the part arrived with a red faced area manager who demanded to know who Steve was, the guy that put in the complaint, I stepped straight up and explained why, he went for the sympathy vote saying how much trouble I caused him, my heart bled for him not, VAG take things like this seriously its bad PR for them. Steve.

Hi do you have the old cluster working, if not and its the replacement it will need re coding with VCDS.

Hi I think the red is power the brown is earth and the purple its the signal wire, easiest way is check the feed plug with a multimeter to see which one has power when you hit the switch, the colours on the feed should match the wires the other side.

Hi buy the eBay version, the part number you gave is for the whole arm which apparently fits the A3,Q3,A4,A6 for that year its good old globalisation, one part fits all and depending on what model you have the price is higher between A3-A6 the A6 part will cost more, I bought my Audi in 2019 and its been a constant battle with the parts but as soon as you rip the only way is Audi theory to shreds its like Ray bans on a sunny day you can see it for what it is, it took me a while to work it out that they the same as all manufacturers buy their parts off the peg from people like Lemforder,Febi,ATE and have their name stuck on the unit but if you look carefully at the unit it normally has the real manufacturers part number and hey presto using that number its a hell of a lot cheaper, Audi are a mixture of Jabba the Hut with the greed and and Gary Glitter with molesting your wallet, my rear wiper motors of which I have had three are made by Valeo they all do the same thing and allow water to run back down the spindle and past the rubber seal and rot the control box out rendering it useless, Audi wanted £300 for the motor and £30 for the grommet seal, end result Ebay £125 the motor and £12 for the grommet, a good place to look for part numbers is LLL car parts they have all the diagrams for your model and when you have the number go fishing on eBay or contact Parts in motion they have just about everything in O.E.grade parts, so it wont be as expensive as you think. I bet your motor is the same as mine. Steve.

Hi just go in the dealers throw it at the parts guy and say got one of these, no sense in paying £90 to talk to an idiot, become a cab driver like me and the idiots pay you. Steve.

Hi the nozzle that is under the cap is probably sold as a repair section as the nozzle would have to unplug from the top of the wiper spindle to facilitate removal of the wiper arm, try the dealers. Steve.

Hi this could be a bit tricky as most of these are mechanical faults there are several technical service bulletins for these faults, Audi are obviously aware of this problem as it applies to two other models Q5/A4 and on some occasions has been solved with a software update, what diagnostics platform are you using as if its VCDS you can test the function of each components operation to nail down which one is not working for example B11AF07 is the fresh air flap under the front scuttle where the air comes in and is mechanical,B109207 is the regulator motor for air recirculation which is at its end stop which is also adjustable on VCDS.

Hi can you give the codes and I may be able to fish out what is relevant the flap control unit will have nothing to do with the blower not working that just aims the air at the vents you select, have you got power at the blower motor, were the units tried new or second hand? Steve.

This is what you have to remove to replace the whole thing. The other picture is the new pipe unit minus the thermostat but please note the three screw holes on the right for the screws, and last but not least the rubbish silicate bag, what soon thought that was a good idea is anybodies guess.

Hi gents, in the recent cold snap the heater would not really warm up for a couple of hours even after driving for most of that time, finally ran it down to a lazy thermostat which was just staying open more than desired so consequently it only got what I would class as really warm about an hour before I booked off for the day, a good quality replacement stat core is about £60 but Audi only sell it as the whole pipe with a new core about £90 so I went for that considering my existing unit had done 180k so therefore I could expect at least that again, now begins the horror of replacement you have to take the inlet manifold off to get at it so I opted for the cheat and unbolted the old thermostat housing its only three torx screws and an extension bar all 1/4 drive, I recently purchased some magnetic torx bits, the best thing since sliced bread, took the new housing apart and and cannibalised the the new core with seal and cap, job done, then discovered the Silicate bag in the expansion tank had ruptured so ended up having to back flush the heater matrix with a jet wash.

Hi are we talking that amazingly usless item that operates the vent position flaps.

Hi I have found from experience that changing the oil and filters can turn the box into wonderful again or throw in age related faults, I agree with what the gearbox guy said as vary rarely the new oil can dislodge bits of matter inside the casing which will take time to settle again, in saying that even though you have lowish milage things deteriorate with age and with that in mind metal fatigue on the moving parts of the clutch on your vehicle is a real possibility which the previous owner was well aware of, thank you for the offer of travel to me but it would be an exercise in futility as unless I can get inside the box to measure the float tolerances on the flywheel I can only tell you what you already know, my honest opinion is that the clutch is the problem but common sense says you will have to replace the flywheel as well as they wear as a set. Steve.

If it is the clutch the bill will be quite steep, its not the parts its the labour,

Hi the company is called ECU Testing and repairs mechatronic units and dash pods as well as ABS units just google the company name and contact, it will come up. Steve.

Hi you mentioned yours is auto yes it has a DMF and yes you can get the mechatronics unit refurbished for not to much money at ECU testing.

Hi the greasing of the calliper could be a problem as you should not grease the back of the pads as they are fitted with a high temp rubber anti squeal cover which when heated semi bonds to the outer part of the calliper, the same with the piston side which also has the steel insert for the piston inner but the outer edge of the piston also bonds with the rubber backing on the pad, I think your brake knock is due to wear on the brake carrier as the locating pins for the pad guides wear and allow movement between the pad and carrier. Steve.

Hi you can reset the oil service interval on the MMI its simple enough and most small indie garages can do the oil change. Steve.

Hi it may well be the low pressure fuel pump in the tank as if that goes sideways it will throw up codes for the high pressure side as its not getting enough fuel, the throttle valve is probably gummed up but in saying that what is your engine code?, that will have a bearing on your problems as to its operating systems they throw up different codes, to be fair I think the price you were quoted is over what a normal garage would quote by several miles, if you can get me your engine version I can probably get you some sane prices on the parts, the only worrying code is p2002 as thats the low pressure egr cooler thats a nasty thing to replace, the only real way to dig in to this is get it read with VCDS as that supplies the date and time of the fault and it could be that some of these faults are very old and no longer current, I have found this with my car as the milage racks up you get odd random codes which when deleted never rear their ugly head again, ask for a breakdown of what he is actually going to do for the £1850.00 + vat

Hi if you give one of the guys on here a personal message I am sure he will be able to help, its AUDIA4 Kev he h is mine of info, if I have it wrong please contact Magnet as he will have the correct messaging details.

Hi it would be incredibly helpful if you can publish the codes furthermore the statement legal would lead me to believe that you are dealing with what's known in your area as SCALLYS, its not legal and if you don't believe me google it and read the ton of information on that subject, somewhere in the paperwork when you sign it will be a disclaimer saying you told them it was not going to be used on public roads anymore, furthermore a delete should only cost a max of £500, chances are your light has more to do with p2002 which is the EGR cooler but without codes how long is a piece of string. Steve.

Hi no worries, have seen this before where you disconnect something and it blows something else, the wiring on all Audis is over complex but it pays to look at the simple things first, I have even had it where I had no illumination on a tail light but power coming in so replaced the bulb with a new one, still no light replaced the new one with an old bulb I had laying about and BINGO, turns out I had picked the only duff bulb in a box of ten, how's yer luck.

Hi I would take the re seal its a horrible job and requires a fair amount of specialist equipment allied to a world of patience.

Hi I think the fuses in the ECU theory is horse manure the units are security sealed with no access for the changing of any fuses even if you had it apart, lateral thinking asks why would you put a fuse [which will fail at some point] in a secure no access shell ?, I think someone has run out of solid plausible excuses, my first port of call would be to check the bulbs and power supply to the light units themselves if everything else is working chances are the bulbs have been shorted out if they removed any wiring plugs.

Hi the problem is that you have to see past the plug in and play bit, it is that way if you have the facility to code them in thats why the vendor offers that service in the description, the flickering is caused by the BCM trying to identify the new type of light by pulsing voltage but it can't achieve the correct voltage against its already learned voltage for the halogen units.