Stevey Y

Hi the Damptronic kit is probably the best option as any Bilstein shocks are a serious upgrade on standard shocks the reason the kit won't lower it anymore is that its designed to work in sync with what is already a factory lowered suspension set up, further lowering may lead to problems that are out of the standard range of the castor and camber adjustments which causes premature bush wear on the suspension links. Steve.

Hi looks like a fair bit of wire changing, who did you buy them from? and have you got a picture of the new units against the old [from the front]. Steve.

Happy Fathers Day Steve. Steve.

Hi most likely an oxygen sensor or the MAP sensor, recently had the same symptoms on my car, yes its diesel but the principles are the same so I changed the MAP/MAF sensors and its all good. if it was low fuel pressure you would get a code. Steve.

Hi the only way is on VCDS that will also highlight any wonky motion sensors. Steve,

Hi the LED units work completely different from the standard lights therefore whoever sold you the aftermarket kit should be abs to supply the Canbus bridge cables that fit between the power plug and the light unit, this fools the lighting control module in to thinking you have fitted standard light units, I have found lots of second hand units on the net but I think its more of a case of you wanted LEDs as an upgrade. Steve.

Hi the easiest and cheapest way of curing it is to buy some chrome handle covers on eBay, or the other way is get hold of a mobile smart repair guy and get him to respray the handle they can do that without removal. Steve.

Hi Al it all boils down to the ship and the halfpenny of tar, it just makes a better job of the head even if you get the seats cut and lapped in theres not normally any need to buy new rocker gear or valves unless the existing valves are pitted, this will ensure that with the hone and rings it runs like new. Steve.

Hi Al if the big ends look okay you are in with a shout, if you can get a reasonable cylinder head used that what I would go for and just re cut the valve seats lap them in and with all the rest you are doing you should get a perfectly serviceable engine, I would also suggest a new oil pump.

Hi why not try paintless dent removal if they only need pushing out, these people do an excellent job for about £50 per dent I have used my local one a few times he is an Indian chap known as Singh the Ding. Steve.

Hi you will have to get the car scanned for codes it may well be the mechatronics unit playing up. Steve.

Hi if its P2002 code its the low pressure EGR cooler going south how many miles has it covered and what is the engine code. Steve.

Hi, NO you need to put the car in to service lining mode with VCDS/OBD and make sure you have a battery connected to the jump posts under the bonnet otherwise if your battery is as old as the car and the voltage drops it will fry the calliper motors. Steve.

Hi I don't know what the exchange rate is but you might be better off sourcing a replacement on eBay as I am sure it won't come to that!, I get my alternators done locally and a refurb with a three year guarantee is only about £350, do some research and find out if there is anyone that does reconditioning in your neck of the woods. Steve.

Hi they normally have Garrett on the outer casting in fact even a recon unit will have that, can you post a picture of that label with the build info, I rather suspect that the tune up that was mentioned was a remap that alone can cause problems depending on the level of mapping also did anyone explain what popped up with the turbo? codes etc as from experience I found any turbo fault throws the EML/Flashing glow plug light. Steve.

Hi Dawood I really think that changing the alternator would be best policy as they will have to check its charging correctly and if its not they will have to find out why, but I honestly think its the internal voltage regulator thats gone bad especially in view of its age. Steve.

Hi if you give a visual inspection with the car jacked up using a bar place pressure on them and if they move a lot thats your problem the balljoint end rarely wears but the bush on the subframe end is normally the culprit and when really worn it will look like this.

Hi please post the resolution to your problem as it forms a roadmap for other members which is what this forum is about. Steve.

Hi the clunking is the centre engine mount its the bit inside the subframe you can just see the bolt in the picture its a two piece bush and will fall out when removed the replacement is a lot more interesting and requires a lot of rubber grease and swearing, ask any Skoda owner its a common problem. Steve.

Hi if it won't replicate the symptoms for a few days then starts again its not an air leak it sounds more like the Lambda sensor going stupid in view of the relatively low cost and ease of change I would try that first. Steve.

Hi no you don't have to have the repairs done by them any independent garage that turns over £40,000 a year and pays VAT can do it, please check but I am sure that was the ruling when I last checked, as for the discs I seriously doubt there is a major lip and in their estimation the wear would indicate that you still have 40 percent left which is way over the 10 percent required for efficient braking, example being my accountant bought a 17 plate Q5 this year with 68,000 miles from a private dealer and his brakes definitely had lips on the discs and despite the dealer fitting new pads at the front they were wearing unevenly on one side as the disc was scored, I gave him the number of the garage I use [independent] and they specced discs and pads front and back in Brembo E9 marked as well as a full brake system flush with ESP4 for £575.00 inc VAT, I rest my case. Steve.

Hi have you scanned the vehicle for faults as that would give you an idea why the light comes on, my theory is the piece of loom that runs along the gearbox has not been replaced on its clips properly and is fouling the gear linkage whilst rubbing the insulation on one of the wires, other than that its the gear linkage is worn, they do a repair kit for the bushes, it might also be the rear mount gone soft, I had that on my car which made the gear change vague as when you changed down or up the movement on the tail shaft made gear selection difficult. Steve.

Hi its probably the original units have lost some gas so if you just replace them they should be ok, FEBI, Stabilo any aftermarket brand should do it just buy the heavy duty model. Steve.

Hi they don't always stop rattling when you put the clutch in especially if its the release bearing gone dry, I would get your local garage to hoist it up on a ramp and have a listen' Steve.

Hi in the Wonderfull world of simplicity just change the light unit as chances are that the facelift bumper is different along with the light units which unless they are LED units won't need coding just a little adjusting of the level via the screws on the light itself. Steve.