Stevey Y

Hi unfortunately in my experience 99% of basic code readers are not worth trying on post 2008 vehicles you would see codes if you went up a couple of levels say Snap on or VCDS, the cheapest and most effective is OBD Eleven at sub £100 this will also enable you to code the battery which is a MUST or the the battery will fail as fast as you can blink, I dont know if your plan is to keep the car but I wouldn't mind betting that a scan with a decent reader would throw up a pandoras box of codes most of them irrelevant but would include the codes you need to solve your problem. Steve.

I wish you luck, but with a good torch and an eye for the part number and the right shape it wont be to difficult just time consuming. Steve.

Hi absent any codes why do you suspect the pump, I would get the fuel pressure checked first, both from the lift tank up to HPFP and then to the rail, what did you scan for codes with. Steve.

Hi unfortunately this has always been a problem with Audis from year to year they change the site of modules and as in my case you just play chase the Ace with all the suggested locations, you will need a good trim removal kit and patience, sorry I can't be more precise. Steve.

Hi if the earth cable was melted you have a bad short somewhere my guess would be the starter, quick question when you replaced the battery did you re code it. Steve.

Hi are we talking the control unit or one of the sensors?, does it show the distance bars on the MMI. Steve.

Don't hold your breath Gareth you will only turn blue. Steve.

Hi the motor electrics have gone, the many symptoms are as follows, no movement, running constantly, partial movement and finally DEAD, easy fix, unplug it at the motor until you get a new unit. Steve.

Hi I think the point that Steve was trying to get across was if you buy a refurbed unit with the immobiliser shunt built in its plug in and play, if its a used O.E. unit it will need programming, aside from that if its a refurbed unit and it still wont work there is definitely another problem further down the line, I.E. crank position sensor or cam position sensor. Steve.

Hi have you checked the lift pump in the tank? Steve.

Hi Cliff I think we have had this conversation before, the parts aftermarket in real terms have actually become more reasonable but it still boils down to the fact that the whole unit is designed badly and guaranteed to fail sooner rather than later, my latest cab has a system whereby the washer fluid is sprayed from a separate nozzle at the top of the window and has no contact with the motor, therefore I have no real reason to believe the motor will fail during my ownership as has been the case with all the other cabs I have owned fitted with the same system, Audi seem to excel at building obsolescence in to various car parts especially the rear wiper motors, all for the sake of a £12.00 rubber grommet. Steve.

Hi why go to ECP there are plenty of offers on eBay which are much cheaper thats where mine all came from and if you do get a new unit please buy a new rubber spindle grommet, they go rock hard and shrink thats where the water gets in. Steve

Hi unless the units are Can bus error free you may have prblems. Steve.

Hi the gearbox inside the unit has nylon gears as Gareth said its water ingress which seizes the metal gearbox components and strips the nylon gears of their teeth, just buy a new unit they are cheap enough because you will only get away with re using the clips on the cover on the tailgate once as if you remove the trim twice they pop out and bend fairly easy job to do. Steve.

Hi try looking on YouTube they tend to have loads of videos on that sort of stuff including how to test the relay. Steve.

Hi you may well be able to just give the turbo a clean but absent any history of an EGR change that would be my prime suspect. Steve.

Hi you are better served going to a specialist and getting it repaired its much cheaper, as for Audi warranties they are printed on Andrex if you researched the site there are hordes of posters but the most obvious is the current one about the mild hybrid alternators gong bang, most of the dealers are not interested, Audi build quality and warranties have been heading down the urinal for about the last ten years. Steve.

Hi no problem, the term reconditioned is a broad church, but another thought has occurred to me that most turbo problems are caused by a failing EGR valve has yours ever been changed. Steve.

Hi if the car has high milage it could be the variable vanes on the exhaust side of the Turbo are becoming stuck with soot or its even possible the Turbo is failing. Steve.

Hi sounds like a thermostat from the symptoms you describe, its a pretty straight forward change I doubt the heater matrix wants flushing but it certainly wont do any harm. Steve

Hi it could well be the thermostat playing about the flow will be the same because of the bypass system if its only partially opening it may cause steam which vents through the expansion cap on the expansion tank. Steve.

Hi Sachs/LUK are the same company and are the only suppliers to most of the VAG group with the exception of Seat who use Valeo clutches on some models where the engines are SPA units. Steve.

Hi if you ever get the screen replaced you would have to get the camera re calibrated the whole system is rubbish as even in the summer if the screen area around the lens gets dusty it comes up with lane assist unavailable, then when you clean the screen it comes back, if I were you I would turn the thing off every time I drive, when I bought my new cab this year it came with a new certificate of calibration, lucky me is all it ever does is keep yanking the steering every time you cross the white line to overtake a parked car or when it really goes nuts is approaching a roundabout with graded cross hatch lines for lane control to filter left or right, if I thought for one minute that my driving would rely on this I would hand my licence back and buy a push bike, the cheapest route, is forget about it. Steve.

Hi ATE is good so we have to work back from there provided the spring clip is present the next thing is the plug that joins the the sensor cable to the loom, was this difficult to remove?, I had this recently where the plug was difficult to remove and the pins inside the female part of the plug [main loom] were displaced and corroded, cured this by buying a repair kit on eBay as this is apparently quite a common problem, I priced the upper loom which you can only buy from Audi at over £200, so I opted for the repair kit at £9.99 from a company called Just German Parts on eBay its a doddle to fit and just required soldering to the main loom, word of advice just twist the wires together before soldering to make sure you have the wires the right way round and the light is out. Steve.

Hi what brand of wear sensor did you use as a lot of the cheaper ones I have fitted have been like this because the little spring bit on the end where it fits to the pad is missing, if its not there thats what conducts the current so the light stays on. Steve.