Stevey Y

Hi I think you are ok there as the sump sits below anything major on the suspension, if its a crack or small hole it will just be Handbags at Dawn. Steve.

Hi treat it to a bottle of Cataclean that normally sorts it out and OBD Eleven is a good starter for diagnostics and not out of town price wise. Steve.

Hi when they replaced the clutch did they replace all the seals, driveshaft, radial, rear crankshaft all are capable of leaking if not replaced, I spent most of last summer playing chase the ace with that one it turned out the main culprit was the crank seal behind the flywheel. Steve.

Hi Steve, no the sump won't affect the block as they are designed to collapse/break first the crank sits just at the top of the oil bath so unless you have shoved it right up there will be no real complications, sorry to hear this. Steve.

For someone who reckons he must slow down you do pick them, nice project though and will be worth a fortune finished. Steve.

Hi it could be an ABS fault, you have done every basic so thats the last link in the chain considering Audi ABS units are notorious for failing, look on the ECU Testing website, VCDS would not show a fault as the units are only a partial monitoring for mega faults, only other thing to check is if its manual handbrake the n/s rear caliper could be sticking and as the system is a diagonal split it won't release the pressure on the o/s front caliper. Steve.

Hi the first code is for the MAFF sensor the second is for the throttle position sensor, try cleaning the MAFF and get another throttle position sensor which is the bit hanging off the side of the throttle pedal easy swap and see where you get with that as the throttle sensor will affect the injection timing as it is getting implausible signals to the ECU. Steve.

Hi I love things like this as it denies the Audi Stealers their lives blood, overcharging they probably get the filters for about a fiver each, they never change the filter and if left it causes all sorts of other problems, by rights an air filter should be changed every year regardless of milage as no one has microscope eyeballs that can see how blocked the filter medium pores are, think about it, more cleaner air so the ECU is not constantly correcting the injector factors to allow for the lack of it. Steve.

Hi easiest way to prime the filter is sit in car turn the ignition on and off six or seven times without starting the engine [no clutch depressed] and the lift pump will prime it for you, only run the ignition on for ten seconds at time. Steve.

Hi in another five years the value will rocket as your average performance electric car won't go like that or sound like that and by then every car collector will want one, one of my mates dad died during the eighties so his son inherited his collection of old fifties and seventies cars his son made a small fortune hiring them to the film industry. Steve.

Hi if it has the fish eye projector lenses they are what is known as shuttered beam headlamps there is a metal plate that moves electrically to cut the light output for dipped beam and when it is moved down by the solenoid thats main beam, the access is via the port under the wheel arch and with the wheel off/on is fairly easy to get at and depending on what type of bulb D5s just twist out and D3s will have a plastic Collar which is a bit more of a faff but twists out as well. Steve.

Hi if you have access to VCDS you can do a reset on the tank level and see if that cures it, also on the advanced measuring values you can check the realtime current volume of the tank also where did you come by the 15 litre figure as when the refill light comes on they only recommend a 10 litre top up which is about right as I refilled mine today with 10 litres and the realtime level was 100%, think you might have overfilled the car that will definitely make it throw a wobbly. Steve.

Hi try what Dave suggested and if that won't work its probably an immobiliser issue. Steve.

Hi I think your battery may be failing as that would throw up most of the other codes, its worth getting a battery status check done with everything turned on, engine lights etc, and see what the voltage drop is like but from what you have described I think its more to do with lack of runs as its trying to tell you I need more electricity, thats why trickle charging is popular, my car is a 2016 with the original battery and no problem probably because it get charged for 150 miles a day as a cab. Steve.

Hi the moisture is normally gained when the seal is degrading on the headlight bulb cover mine is doing it a bit in very cold weather, if you remove the rear cover and give the seal a wipe over with a good quality white spirit and a non scratch kitchen pan cleaner it revives the rubber dry it and coat the seal with silicone grease, the other possible culprit is the vent hose on the unit sometimes they become blocked or go missing. Steve.

Hi if you buy a branded battery fro a reputable source say like our Halfords they will for a small charge code the battery for you as for the rest of it you can buy a lift pump quite cheap $ or alternatively buy a previously enjoyed unit from a breakers site once fitted you drive it for about two miles and when you are happy delete the old codes. Steve.

Hi the problem all remaps have is, the person who wrote the software is probably a computer geek with no in depth knowledge of mechanics, the whole thing relies on an ancient equation that for more power you need more air and fuel, the map just adds more fuel as it can't add air as that setting is already set so in an ideal world you would fit a free flow air filter and a free flow exhaust with manifold to gain any extra power with benefits, the problem is no one knows if the new map has cancelled out some of the monitoring functions in the ECU, I think the VAG guy was right and its the over fuelling that is causing your problem, no point in charging off and looking for leaks and a dirty MAF you will be better off back as standard, if you think remaps are wonderful idea why don't Audi sell them as a service item they would make a fortune but no they would rather still build something that is reliable, the other thing is the source of the VAG emissions scandal the ECU programming was so advanced it recognised when the vehicle was on a rolling road and switched its own mapping to bring down the emissions, ask Steve Q what happened when the cars were remaped with a retrofit software, he worked for VAG. Steve.

HI good spot, ask them if they do a club discount. Steve

Hi I would be very careful ruling out the battery as if you have no prior knowledge of if it was coded to the vehicle it won't matter how new it is the BEM module will ruin it in record time as Clifford pointed out most of the faults are low voltage so the prime suspect is the battery, the rest of it is as I say probably down to the lift pump in the tank. Steve.

Hi I would say a lot of the low voltage faults are battery related as it would appear to be on its way out, with regard to the high pressure pump they often throw that one up when the culprit is the lift pump in the tank as if its not working properly the high pressure pump is not getting enough fuel to pressure the fuel rail which in turn would cause misfires as the injectors are being starved. Intermittent is the word clue which means sometimes the low pressure pump is able to keep up. Steve.

HI its probably a dirty/loose connection under the seat, couldn't tell you which one without a diagram, but the easy way around it is leave the car overnight and then unlock it from a distance, get an assistant to open the door and keep the key out of range, this will give the airbag module time to drain down and it won't cause problems as they only work on 4ohms, then take off one plug at at a time and clean with electrical cleaner the connectors often become loose due to the seat moving back and forth when hoovering the car. Steve.

Hi the synchro mechanisms are mounted on the shafts for for each gear they are a system of speed rings and shims that make sure the shaft for gear 2 is spinning at a reciprocal speed to the next gear 3 when they mesh therefore you get a smooth transition, there is no synchro on first gear so from first to second its the second gear shaft that has to be up to speed with with the first gear cluster, it only ever differed on the old crash gearbox which meant you had to double de-clutch to slow the next gear shaft enough to mesh with the next gear up or down, the advent of hellicoil gears and synchro rings was the architect of todays modern gearbox. Steve.

Hi I suspect you have a leak in the system as it won't work without gas in it as it won't run the system dry. Steve.

Hi I ask what may seem a stupid question but have you ever changed the gearbox oil, I change mine every 50k and the difference with the changes is very noticeable. Steve.