Stevey Y

Hi as its a Q7 I would be looking at what the warranty covers in detail judging by most of the posts on the Q7 forum it may well be the best £2.5 you ever spend. Steve.

Hi you only re adapt the G450 sensor if it is a new one and its a lengthy process as you have to regenerate the DPF a couple of times before fitting to give the new sensor almost zero soot in the DPF to give it a chance to learn its values from scratch, the other sensor with the pipe that hangs out with no home is a G505 sensor which measures soot loading against outside barometric pressures, personally I wouldn't bother with G450 UNLESS ITS NEW as it must be working ok to have picked up the fault in the first place. Steve.

Hi if thats the number they gave you it should be fine, if not that will be their problem. Steve.

Hi no worries I am sure you will find one, Ford wanted £300 for a new tin sump so £80 for threadworx was a no brainer, let us know how you get on. Steve.

Hi just the section where the pipe joins the turbo, on another tangent you described an induction roar when accelerating , a split boost hose between the turbo and the intercooler would make the same noise as its loosing boost pressure which will put it in to limp as its also classed as an air leak within the code you have its one of those lousy generic codes that covers a multitude of things. have a look at the boost hoses either side of the intercooler. Steve.

Hi it was just the EGR valve I re adapted, go through the menu on basic settings address 6 on my version scroll down to low pressure EGR adaptation and press go watch the numbers going up and down when it stops wait two mins and press done. Steve.

Hi the last thing to try is fit the new duct clear the fault, without driving it let it idle and get nice and hot and do a forced regeneration with the OBD. Steve.

Hi sorry the EGR valve was VDO, the cooler was replaced off the back of p2002 and was a previously enjoyed unit from eBay which I super cleaned with carbon cleaner and Mr Muscle, its just unfortunate we have two EGR valves, the low pressure one in the DPF and the high pressure one on the intake manifold which I have never had a problem with because thats the easiest to change, Murphys Law. Steve.

Hi you can re tap the hole if you have a tap/die set but I would be inclined to contact your local mobile thread repair service they can supply the right size bolt and is all you need is a copper washer to fit, the last one I had done was a tin sump on my mondeo so fitted a slightly bigger washer on the plug thread side so is all I ever did after that was fit another washer every time, thats why I am a fan of the little electric oil pumps that suck the oil out through the dipstick, also the thread recovery people do the job without removing the sump, one of mine I did I used an old spark plug with the top snapped off as a temporary repair until I got a suitable 19mm bolt, if its an alloy sump they are even easier. Steve. Steve.

Hi Jon well over a thousand miles and its behaving itself, I had to re adapt the valve on the cooler as that was new and that took about five mins its definitely got its MOJO back and I am getting good mpg even with the aircon going, still persisting with the Archoil as the way I am looking at it is if I got 125k out of the last cooler so chances are the replacement should do the same, I was wracking my brains as to why my one leaked and today I found the answer from a lorry fitter I took to a wedding reception, apparently they have this problem as well, it starts with the cooler blocking which then traps crystals in the cooling tubes the steam from the next spraying of adblue [35% Urea 65% distilled water] then dampens the trapped crystals and they start to rot the cooler tubes, I looked this up when I got home and sure enough adblue is harmless to the environment but will be corrosive to most base metals which is why the feed pipes are high quality plastic and the spray nozzles are high tensile steel which is chromed, I paid £120 for an O.E VDO valve just because it didn't have the VAG logo which is better than the £350 that Audi wanted, so if it all holds up barring the labour it was a cheap fix, still working on the catch can thing as lateral thinking says if you can stop the extra water getting in it will cut down on the steam supply to the cooler. Steve.

Well done Gareth you can't keep spoon feeding information and trying to draw maps, I am currently in the process of buying a Ford Kuga that has been sitting on someones drive and has had a whack on the front and looks like it just needs a new dash/airbags and a bolt up on the front, I went and knocked on the front door a couple of times and was finally accosted by a neighbour who asked me what I wanted he said he would pass on my interest and phone number, guess what the owner phoned me two days later and we are now negotiating, amazing what a bit of persistence will yield. Steve.

Hi see, no new seat well done.

Hi its definitely the rubber section that joins the duct to the turbo, I used to get this a lot on the two Mondeo cabs I ran and after getting Pixxed off with keep paying £150 for a new inlet trunking just to get the rubber boot I finally measured the old ones I.D. Both ends I finally bought a stepped section of silicon hose that was within 2mm of the right size both ends I.E. one end was 52mm the other was was 48mm these are called reduction pieces and are available from ASH Silicone hoses on line and for about £16, that put it to bed for the next 150,000 miles until I sold the car, you might even be able to buy the boot as a repair section on eBay. Steve.

Hi the DPF is Finland your problem is nothing to do with the Adblue delete, garage diagnostic systems are Generic and won't show the reason for the code P2002 which is the EGR low pressure cooler, no one can do anything to tamper with these, the EGR they turned off was on the high pressure side on the inlet manifold you actually have two EGRs one high pressure one low pressure its that which is causing the problem, as far as I am aware no one has written a software to disable this as without it you would definitely fail an MOT on the emissions as the low pressure side is part of the Ultra technology and thus the emission maximum is 0.05 maximum, mine went and please see pictures of what it looks like and why they fail. Steve.

Hi its not that steep when you consider it will have to be sprayed fitted and then blended in to the wings and any other associated panel, if you just spray the bonnet and don't blend it in after which they will have to mop it to make even the difference in the worn paint and new will stand out like a Bulldogs ghoulies. Steve.

I refer to the process of being asked on at least two occasions for a ball park price and still sand bagging with statements such as well I have looked on eBay and ......, still no price!, I am open to offers, how long is a piece of string, I am right behind you with on your statement about stated selling price in adverts, even eBay has a start price unless its 99p on bid, so everyone tried to offer best advice to make the car an attractive proposition and based on some sketchy service history with no price and at first no pictures, then when we got pictures none were of the interior or engine bay, there was a guy selling an old Audi 80 on line he had pictures of everything and had noted any cosmetic faults it also had a price and went within four hours of the advert going in, thats the way to sell a car.

Hi Roy I meant press select not settings.

Hi Roy assuming the old callipers and system are still where they were get the VCDS up and running go to non UDS and that should throw up the menu, press settings and go to EPB press that and then go to basic settings and press that it will bring up a clear window which will have a box next to it put in 007 then press go you should hear the motors retracting the piston wait for at least three mins before pressing done, the piston will need prising back like the fronts then commence working at all times you must have a battery charger connected to either the jumper posts under the bonnet or to the battery itself this stops voltage fluctuation which will kill the module for the EPB, the reversal for this is pump the brakes a couple of times and then do all of the above after substituting the address for 006 and again wait three mins before pressing done. Steve.

Hi Gareth for once just cave in and admit this entire process like many others before is not unlike a pencil with no lead, completely POINTLESS.

Hi Roy if you will have to get the correct callipers as even if you get the EPB to retract they won't magically adapt to fit the existing discs as the vented brake pads are different in thickness, did you retract the EPB before you dismantled the old calliper set up as if you had the right calliper /carrier replacement it would have been a straightforward case of fitting then reactivating the EPB Steve.

Hi Roy why do you want to one the parking brake system?, thought you had already done the pads and callipers. Steve.

Hi please see the pics posted of my bumper just don't get the gun to close and keep it moving otherwise you will set light to the plastic best engage a suitable assistant to gently massage the other side when heating, BTW I DID NOT DO THE FILLING OR SPRAYING after, but in saying that yours is a straight edge which any competent spray shop should be able to do for a few quid as a side job.

Hi you won't need a new sill as if its plastic they just heat it with a hot air gun whilst pushing with something like a screwdriver handle from the other side and it pops out, ABS will always want to go back to the shape it was moulded to, it might need a skim of filler and definitely some paint. Steve.

Hi the revolution in injection systems started in the late seventies with the Bosch Motronic multi point injection system which must have been like the second coming for the motor industry, it spawned the likes of the Golf GTI which was the benchmark every manufacturer had to better, the early systems were expensive which is why Fords first ventures in to the arena were cars like the Fiesta Si which was basically a FOMOCO carb body with a Bosch single point injector mounted above the throttle butterfly and it was so successful in giving more power and reducing emissions they then got the hots for it and started buying loads of Bosch systems tailored to their requirements I.E. XR2i XR4i Capri 2.8i Granada 2.8i, the problem was all systems on these cars still used a plenum chamber so when CARB in California started putting the thumb screws on Ford/GM for even less emissions they started developing direct injection engines as allied to the new engine management systems gave a lot more power for even less emissions and fuel, the next revolution was again developed by Bosch was Piezo injectors, these operate on a fixed height stack of Piezo slices which when electrically charged compress and lift the injection pintle to 00.04 which is the optimal height for fuel passage then further enhanced it by giving the injector multiple injection ports which enable a good spread of atomisation, only problem is the ports are about two microns and when you consider a human hair is six microns is pretty small, then the fuel companies had to step up and remove the magnesium sulphates from fuel as this solidifies in the injectors and blocks the ports and the shame of it is magnesium is an excellent upper cylinder lubricant, any engine built 2000 on requires free flowing oxygen to allow for precise metering of fuel but only within the limits set by the management system, to much it gives problem to little its the same outcome, its all about the emissions. Steve.

Hi you can't force the car to regenerate unless its done via a scanner the car will do it of its own volition when the ECU notes the soot levels are above normal, when it starts just take the car for a drive for at least five miles until the cycle finishes, if you use a proprietary DPF additive with every third tank of fuel this cuts down on the regeneration time as it makes the soot particles smaller therefore they burn off quicker even during town driving. Steve.