Stevey Y

Hi get it read for codes, my guess is its one of the front seat connectors is loose or dirty they work on about 6 OHMS resistance and anything higher triggers the light, my daughter went through a phase of this before I educated her about jumping in and launching the seats back and forth, if the lights on the airbag whichever side is faulty won't work, if you get the basic OBD Eleven code reader it will tell you where the fault is. Steve.

Hi another thought is run a false fuel supply to the HPFP and try that if it starts that will nail it down to a fuse/relay.

Hi check the cam belt has not slipped that would cause these symptoms, I have seen very similar before where the belt has jumped a tooth, only other possible culprit is the fuel rail pressure regulator is stuck. Steve.

Hi the manual gearbox fitted will not use a cooler as they run on proper Gutsy oil which only needs changing every 50k, thats why I chose a manual for my cab I have changed the oil twice plus the clutch assemblies are cheaper £1400 manual £2000+ for the auto DSG, the prices are so high because the Barstewards at Audi won't release the patents for aftermarket. Steve.

Hi you really should start surfing the net for part numbers there are several sites that do parts catalogues for your model, try Zap 7 or failing that your local car parts centre will be able to help via the REG/VIN, TRY Carparts in motion. Steve

Hi I hate to tell you this but there is no way on earth they can move sideways unless you have the wrong diameter bushes that don't fit the bar then there will be lateral travel when cornering, if all is correct there is no side movement, for example there are three different diameter options for bar and bushes on my model. Steve.

Hi Philips Diamond Vision off eBay not cheap but the brightest bulbs you will ever buy. Steve.

Hi it sounds as if it could be something to do with the rear CCM/ECU maybe a wire gone through or corrosion of the terminals on the unit itself that will cause all sorts of weird and wonderful problems, only gone for this theory based on the battery voltages you stated and the fact it started when you replaced the spare wheel, it seems movement is causing a make and break situation. Steve.

Hi if you are putting new arms on anyway just heat the bolt up with a blow torch that will free it up. Steve.

Hi Nexen Nfera or Roadstone Eurovis or Debica, all available on eBay and I just give my local tyre fitters £20 to fit, these are all mid range with excellent A-B ratings for fuel and wet grip, my car is used as a cab and I normally get 15k plus out of the fronts and 27k out of the rears and my tyres are getting hammered most days. Steve.

Hi battery wise you only get what you pay for but a good mid range battery that lasts is the Yuasa 9000 series. Steve.

Hi try posting the tyre size as some brands in a certain size work better than others. Steve.

Hi Tony if you have got the screws out you will have to go at it with a plastic trim prise, its held on with some pretty ferocious metal spring plunge clips most of which deform when releasing just work your way round carefully and once you get it going it will fall off, just keep an eye on the boot light unit as the wires are short and easily snapped, engage an assistant for that bit, I propped it up on the Wife until I had undone the connector, its probably either the seal on the motor or the supply pipe has come off, don't know what Zoon came up with running the water feed for the washer through the spindle the arm is fixed to, the replacement panel clips from Audi are about £2 each but I got ten of em off eBay for about six quid, see picture. Steve.

Result, well done.

Crappy plastic gears. What !Removed!. Took the garage a wee bit to find this, even though I mentioned it. But they also caught a failing solenoid. Attached is pic of those !Removed! plastic parts. Worn worm screw and teeth chipped off the gear. So much for a "glow-plug" warning! Hi Thomas the Ford ones were a bit different they had bigger gears with more teeth to strip I rebuilt a couple of mine but ended up buying a new unit it was cheaper than keep buying repair kits which only lasted about 40k, they are a real engineering atrocity.

Hi here are the pics of my box out, the driveshaft seal goes in hole in the gearbox diff housing I also included a picture of the reciprocating part of the diff, the exploded diagram shows the other possible contender marked in yellow that fits between radius shaft and the inner bore of the slave cylinder, the pressure plate and driven plate are industrial quality with regard too gripping there are only three things that cause slip, clutch master, contamination or just good old wear

Hi its one of two things, if the whole brake system is not bled with the cylinder the symptoms will return, get the car up in the air remove the belly pan and there is an inspection cover on the bottom of the bell housing pull it off and have a good look inside for oil misting/oil there are two real nasty oil seals in there one inside the slave cylinder and one on the n/s driveshaft which runs across the box to the diff the seal there is prone to leaking gear oil as well, if its as dry as a bone in there its definitely the pressure plate going weak, how many miles has the car done, will post some pics that my be of use in understanding. Steve.

Hi its the clutch master cylinder holding off, I had it on my car they are Cr@p plastic thing and the seals swell if the brake fluid is a bit past its change date, mine went about 3 months after I had my clutch changed the reason the symptoms are random is because it is all regulated by the torque bite depending which gear you are in say 3rd at 1500 rpm as soon as you push the throttle as the torque increases the the thing will briefly slip then grip, do that for too long and it does wonders for the driven plate wear, quite a bit of stripping down under the plastic scuttle to get at the cylinder and about two hours graft in all, did mine and used an O.E. cylinder from TPS as my mechanic told me the Febi units were failing quite frequently, bled everything with fresh fluid and not had a problem since, BTW Ford are having a real problem with this with Transits and now insist you change the clutch master when you put in a new clutch.

Hi you can't beat good old four gauge, you can beat it, sand it, fill it and stretch it, money well spent in my humble opinion. Steve.

Hi don't know of any in your area but I am sure there must be GRP manufacturers in your area we only have Fibre sports in our area but I wouldn't use them as the work is suspect and they only really cater for all the little Dweebs in MK6 Fiestas, many a night I have seen them removing the new GRP font air dams on the speed bumps in Asda carpark and by week two they are all held together with cable ties they don't do drilling and Spire Bolts, I always thought the company name sounded like a go faster laxative supplier. Steve.

Hi run the Cataclean through and the fuel down before refilling and using archoil then you will get better data from your readings as to what the Archoil is actually doing 290 miles is pretty good going as mine regenerates about every 200 miles bearing in mind my vehicle does a lot of short stop start duty cycles, I did just over 250 miles today and it had a regeneration on the way home. Steve.

Don't hold your breath. New GRP technology has moved on but you must explain how critical the fit will be before spending your hard earned. Steve.

Hi if you plumb in your year and model it won't come up with the exact same model but there are a couple of vids on how to on VWs that use the same system the connectors are a plunge lock clip which is easy enough, other than that find a local man in a van that will fix it by bridging the circuit with a diode which shuts it up until you have got rid, its not something I would recommend if you were keeping the car, as for Audi fixing it their potential for charging for this job is breathtaking, they probably would tell you they need to replace the bag unit. I am certain daddyo is well capable of doing this one. Steve.

Hi unless the pattern is perfect they are likely to be fitting wise like poking smoke up a cats backside with a knitting needle believe me I used to fit them during the early eighties and soon discovered the unfits of a good quality aftermarket steel item and Waxoyl under seal, yes fibreglass won't rot but it also won't stand the odd tap with a hide mallet to get the shut gaps perfect. Steve.

Hi this is a new one it normally says too low, either way its a connector problem to that system, before you go pulling it about allow the car to stand for a while so the airbag module discharges you will have to pull the rubber weather strips down to gain access I believe the connector is at the top of the windscreen piller trim which you may also have to pull out, plastic trim remover kit is a must as well as no electronic watches or nylon clothing as static can induce the bag firing mechanism to deploy [Major BILL] there are a couple of tutorials on youtube on how to release the connectors, having removed the connector liberally hose down both the connector and the reciprocating port with a good quality electrical cleaner or a home made spray filled with 99% solution of isopropyl alcohol and hold a cloth underneath what you are spraying so it won't drip on the trim below, airbag systems work on an infinitesimally small current between 6-9 OHMS so it won't take a lot to upset it, I think your problem may well be slight corrosion rather than dirt which drives the resistance up. Steve