Stevey Y

Hi yes and the valve at the end of it with new gaskets and a heat shield for the new low pressure valve, the task is not for the faint hearted it took them all day just to get the old one out as you have to disconnect a section of the exhaust from the DPF to midway under the car take out that side engine mount and remove the sensors from the bit before the Cat plus the sensor on the bit of pipe you remove, you then have to unplug the DPF pressure sensors as well as about ten other plugs, all this after tripping back most of the bulkhead plastic covers and heat shields to get enough room to work, believe me I did not begrudge the guy one penny of what I paid him as well as the two gallons of tea, if you get at it soon you will be ok otherwise you risk trashing your engine, its a cr@p job and a badly designed thing and I will cut the old one to pieces next week to find out whats actually inside as that might indicate why they fail, I took one off of a BMW a while ago and they are at the top of the engine on the side of the cylinder head three bolts and a couple of hose clips and it falls off we never cleaned the old one as a new one was £150.00 and not over £500.00. Steve.

Hi it needs rewelding by a specialist as the two parts are very different the DPF I am guessing is pre formed stainless and the bit at the end is some sort of cast steel /iron which will require a specialist welding to get it back to factory. Steve.

Hi the belt is self tensioned but the major consideration is its age as they are bonded rubber and nylon reinforcement between the outer part and the inner toothed surface, once the reinforcement is exposed it will fail in short order, the reason they don't mention it is they rather hope to see it again on a trailer needing a good few grands worth of valve gear and cams and thats only if a valve hasn't collided with a piston and holed it in which case the sky is the limit, a short block is about five and half grand and then theres the cylinder heads valves, these people don't care as long as it makes money and I guarantee your car will never run properly again, I have witnessed this with my nieces A4 which went in under warranty because it was burning a litre of oil a week, it came back running like biscuit tin full of nails and leaking oil/water, go to a VAG specialist or any good independent garage and get it done believe me when I tell you the alternatives are horrific. Steve.

Hi chaps, I just thought I would put this one out there, my EML went on last Friday telling me that particle trap bank 1 was blocked but tested then memory clear anyway I looked at how many times the fault had occurred and it worked out about thirty times before it finally put the light on so I limped through the weekend with a good dose of EGR cleaner and made it to this Tuesday, I had a look round Monday and the Slimebags at Audi only sell it as a kit with the valve £700.00 then theres the extra cost of the gaskets you will need another £95.00, I had already bought the EGR valve from a VAG parts dealer on eBay, genuine VEO Continental so did not need the valve just the cooler, all the other monkeys like ECP,Motex etc have jumped on the bandwagon and wanted £500.00 plus just for the cooler, so I opted for a previously owned cooler from the local VAG breakers so while my car was having major surgery I set about it with some carbon cleaner and a can of Mr Muscle that cured it daylight through all holes. My life the reason for the original units failure was wall to wall wet Adblue crystals this was because the water jacket around the cooler tubes had developed a water leak which I was reliably informed that if it was left it would have caused a hydraulic lock taking the pistons and rods with it anyway I adapted the new valve this morning and went for a drive in circles at first gradually increasing my range until I was happy about 50 miles in all, so far so good no light no codes and £65.00 for a second hand cooler I will let you know. Steve.

Hi the recommended belt change milage wise hashes led many a poor souls wallet to the grave, I change mine every 80k or in my case four years whichever comes first, I use my car as a cab so its imperative nothing like that snaps therefore I recommend you get it done post haste as my belt at 80k/four years had stretched about 2mm, the cam belt wears quicker if you do a lot of short journeys as I do especially when sitting in traffic which is when the belt is under maximum stress. Steve.

Hi not entirely, if you use Hydra Maximus or Archoil 6900 D synthesis it keeps the whole thing cleaner read up about them on line, irony think a dirty glow plug will cause your problem I think its either a sensor or a clogged EGR/DPF but you won't know until its been scanned again after you have cleared the existing codes. Steve.

Hi you will beat it I am sure, its like us as we age bits go wrong, and like most of us it can either be cured or controlled. Steve.

Hi Roy time for a good run and a clear out I am afraid any diesel requires a good kicking every month or use of a proprietary fuel additive to keep them clean. Steve.

Hi Ryan, original number 03L 905 061 G OR SUPERSESSION NUMBER 03L 905 061 K that was the two numbers for mine but it appears that 059 905 061 H is another number but I am sure they will all be the same as long as the main part numbers match the letters are years for supersession try TPS or any motor factors, eBay has plenty its just the wait for the item, they seem quite popular, I wonder why LOL and they use them on all the CH designated engines. Steve.

Hi god knows why they go up the wall but believe me they are only a knock sensor, I had the light on and off for two weeks while I waited for TPS to get their finger out, its perfectly possible for that to cause overfuelling if the all seeing eye ECU thinks its that that is failing, could well have been a combination of both sensors, carefully check the wiring to the plug cap as thats been known to break as well thats why they sell a lot of glow plug looms, the whole diesel VAG range uses these monstrosities, still it could be worse Vauxhalls use four of them. Its just another Cr@p design thats making money. Steve.

Hi you are not useless, what you have to do is if you have a later version of VCDS it will give the scanning options of non UDS or UDS click on UDS aggressive mode and scan again when its finished go back to controller and then click on erase DTCs it will ask you if you really want to do this press yes and it will clear them wait ten seconds then press done and wait for it for two seconds while it confirms then shut down, if you changed the battery and did not re code it the battery will quickly die through overcharging, I rather think the car does no real milage per year so I would treat it to a bottle of Wynns DPF cleaner and give it run then scan it again. Steve.

Hi the sensor you want is built in to no3 cylinder glow plug, I had to change mine recently its just over a hundred quid and a sweaty palms time changing it as they are known for snapping off if they are stuck, I changed mine using a torque wrench at 20nm to undo if it wants more than that leave the plug chamber soaking in Plusgas overnight the other thing is when changing make sure the engine is HOT and tighten to no more than 17nm. I have posted on this subject on the A6 C7 part of the forum. Steve.

HI its about the best combo I have used there is another but at about £60 for the kit I fear the Bentley owners can have my share apart from which the Bentley leather is dyed hide where as ours is spray painted. Steve.

Hi excellent just do all four, and please clear the fault codes its the only way forward, if you don't want to do it that way bleeding wise just do both rears first and then both fronts. Steve.

Keep going Kev, like I said you seem very capable, I am chuffed for you. Steve.

Hi has anybody else noticed the dates on these codes, the youngest is 2020 I don't think he has cleared the codes as suggested which would clear the memory capacity so it would only flag up current DTCs, if you don't clear the faults and the memory is full you won't get anything new. Steve.

Hi if you bleed all for wheels at once it won't give the air bubbles in the system time to creep off elsewhere as its being flushed out, like I said you need a good supply of fluid and a litre gravity feed bottle in the master cylinder reservoir. Steve.

Hi why did you not put this information in the first post it would certainly have narrowed the possibilities down, I think thats why Kev thought it was a wind up.

Hi a new belt and tensioner with the idler pulley will stop it all. Steve.

Hi if you dipped the oil after a change and a small run it will be black as diesel produces far greater carbon inside the engine than petrol engines in which the oil can still be fairly clear after a couple of thousand miles. Steve.

Hi the part that throws that code is normally the VVT solenoid which is easy to replace/clean, try ZAP7 for the diagram, the VVT solenoid is operated with oil pressure and can play up if the oil used is the wrong grade or excessively dirty I personally think its got nothing to do with the cam adjuster pulley and a new VVT solenoid is probably just over £100 for a good OEM part. Steve.

Hi bang on more or less as when a sensor is failing the ECU reverts to a strategy that involves fuel enrichment, this is to stop it running lean which burns valves and pistons, over fueling is a distinct possibility. Steve.

Hi have you had the oil level checked, chances are that if its been beasted up and down the motorway the oil is knackered although it sounds like a diminishing oil level to me ,get the oil changed and add the Slick 50 its the cheapest option. Steve.

Sound advice Steve but I don't think its what he wanted to hear, you know whats going to happen when the term cheap fix is mentioned, there are not any cheap fixes just cheaper. Steve.

Hi this one has been bashed to death, the only people who have the dipsticks are the Americans and they charge a fortune for the dipsticks and shipping not forgetting the possible customs charges thats why I gave up with my one and bought a new level sensor when the old one went wrong, they are easy to change and about a third of the price of a metal rod with a yellow ring on the end of it, as for the level sensor that misbehaves if you open and close the bonnet too many times as there is a sensor on the bonnet mechanism that tells it to only display the last reading which is the one when you switch off so it shows low anyway. Steve.