Stevey Y

Hi thats probably it as any exposed wiring gets moisture in it and causes all sorts of weird problems, I would also check the oil level just in case, has it been lowered?. Steve.

Easiest way to find out is phone the dealers and give them your VIN/REG and they will be able to tell you straight away as that trans code is only applicable to one type of box its not a multiple choice option.

Hi sorry it sounds like you have covered just about every thing, the only thing I can think of is that its a driven clutch problem in the gearbox itself. Steve.

Hi Delphi pads are good as they are fitted to Vauxhall,Citroen,Peugeot, and practically every model in the U.S. and without going into the same information again they will be either E11 or E90 marked which means they have to pass stringent tests to obtain the rating to be sold as aftermarket or in the case of Delphi as O.E. equivalent, despite the overwhelming evidence as to the quality of these parts there are those who would rather spend a lot more on a box that has been badge engineered with the same pad inside, pushing home the point TMG Friction own most of the brake manufacturers in Europe and having used most brands of brakes during 950000 miles as a cabbie I can assure you Delphi pads are good as gold based on the fact that I used them on my last cab and they pulled up a ton and quarter 2.2 Titanium X sport estate pretty damn quick from over a ton, [Did I say that], its impossible to buy cr@p brake pads then days even Apec have had to up their game with the advent of E11/E90, Google it as if your fixing cars it makes fascinating reading. Steve.

Hi I think you will find its QDC as the engine code is. CGQB. Steve.

Hi I hate to tell you this but if the oil was dirty how could anyone know if the filter was clean unless they have microscope vision, it follows that if the oil was dirty at some point it will have travelled through the filter and god only knows how much crud is embedded in the filter, the normal practice is to change both regardless of any visual inspection offered, possible the changed oil is having a hard time with an old filter. Steve.

Hi most indépendant garages are capable of doing an oil/filter change, best practise is change all the filters and oil it will probably come to less than Audi want for the oil change only, I am fortunate that I can do my own so using Bosch filters and a good quality oil the parts come to about £70.00 plus a Sunday afternoon. Steve.

Hi if its been standing try getting the gearbox serviced the oil is probably knackered along with the filters. Steve.

Hi not necessarily if you can find a kind soul in your area that has VCDS, try any independent VAG specialists as they may well be able to help you out and it will be a lot cheaper than Audi who charge an eyewaterinw amount just to inspect it. Steve.

Hi its probably weary glow plugs as the coil light has to cycle before it will start cranking, my A6 does it especially on cold mornings I am going to change my plugs as at nearly 120k I think I have had my moneys worth. Steve.

Hi it is more than likely a coding issue, was the new unit second hand? if not it will still need coding. Steve.

Hi have a look under the bonnet around the fuel filter pipework, the fuel filter housing is on the left of the engine bay at the front and has at least nine very small torx screws holding the lid on wit metal pipes coming out of it which connect to rubber hoses, just check for any wetness around there and the engine bay, remove the plastic baffle cover on top of the engine, it just pulls up and off and check around the injectors as you might have a weeping supply connector where the metal pipe joins the injector. Steve.

Hi the pipe bit sounds ok but you definitely need a new reservoir as if its the original its way past saving as by the sound of your description the reservoir filter has given up. Steve.

Hi if you know what the problem is take it to an independent garage it will be a hell of a lot cheaper. Steve.

Hi try hosing it with WD40 and then twist it with the pin nosed pliers, when reassembling coat the top of the plug with silicone grease as this stops them sticking to the plug, as for the rattles I have no idea. Steve.

Hi the only real way to get more horsepower is to have a QUALITY remap which costs a lot of money, anything that is offered from a guy in a van thats cheaper will not do the job, you need a company with a workshop and a rolling road and above all a well advertised track record, not a great fan of remaps as they eat into the cars reliability factor, there are tuning chips that fit between the fuel rail and fuel temperature sensors but if you want a knackered engine in a years time be my guest. Steve.

Hi it sounds like big ends or a stuck hydraulic tappet, either way its not good news my guess is a sticking tappet so its probably only running on a couple of cylinders. Steve.

Hi its the fluid reservoir there is a filter built into the reservoir which over time becomes blocked and eventually tears thus allowing the fluid to flow freely which manifests itself in to much air in the fluid. [pump noise] and the high flow rate you are experiencing, the fixing of the pipe is nothing to do with it unless you used a much smaller bore of pipe to bridge it which would cause extra pressure by limiting the flow rate to the rack. Steve.

Hi they stop the cable from falling back from the gap between the roof liner and the metal roof and dangling on the windscreen. Steve.

Hi try this simple reset first, with the car in neutral engine on disable the hill assist button then apply the foot brake and turn off the handbrake, leave for thirty seconds then manually pull the switch up twice and then down twice and again up twice turn the car off and see what happens. Steve.

Hi its either a switch problem which you have ruled out or wiring fault where the live feed to the switch is not shutting down, have you any access to OBD Eleven or similar, this would throw a fault for the electrics and I can't imagine the switches are coded but will do some digging. Steve.

Hi it sounds like a problem with the switch was the replacement new? Steve.

Hi any of the trim tool kits on eBay will do the job just don't buy a cheap one as they tend to snap, you can poke the wire under the front of the roof lining and the easiest way to get it to stay put is get some cable ties and put one around the cable every six inches and leave about 8mm when you cut the excess off this helps it grip, then poke the cable up behind the metal strip on the metal part of the roof at the front of the headlining, you can do this with your fingers. Steve.

Hi what should happen is you lock the car and the brake light on the switch stays on for about 30 secs to a min and then it should go out. Steve.

Hi I hate to say this but these are ALL classic symptoms of a failing battery, I don't know how old your old battery is but if it was not readapted to the car when fitted it will fail in record time, do you have access to any diagnostics as I am sure these lights are communication fault caused by inconsistent battery voltage, in the old days a car could run on a knackered battery mostly on whatever the alternator puts out but later vehicles won't as the alternator currents always fluctuating. I would start in the boot and check all the wiring and plugs that were anywhere near that water the easiest way to check would be connect the car to a slave battery and run the car on and off a few times to see if any of the lights disappear but TBH plugging in is really the only definitive answer. Steve.