Stevey Y

HI Jonno, you live in the same area as me so what about Gosnays,Regal,Robertsons all good companies within spitting distance of us, the problems with these engines are the bores and piston rings as they made them to cut down on friction and reduce emissions, the bores were made slightly bigger but the main problem is the rings which are thinner in width and become coked into the ring channel so they don't seal as well as the milage creeps up, one of my colleagues had his Transit Minibus engine done at Regals and believe me that wasn't even running when it went in and needed a hell of a lot of work including a new head, it all came in at three grand, when you consider that a genuine Ford unit was over five grand The bit that makes me die is this roll over and give up attitude with some people, if you look at the facts why would they be offering an oil consumption test if the end result was going to be a firm NO, thats classed as gaining money by deception, the Americans were the first to flush out Audi on this problem and do you think they have thrown in the towel, absolutely not, the other thing I find distasteful is most dealers main or otherwise knew of this problem so when buying for stock why would you not have a list of the affected engines so that you were not going to sell some poor sod a lemon that will most definitely fail in the not to distant future, I suppose that comes under the subheading of [ poor unsuspecting dealer], Audi are very slippery when it comes to addressing customer problems due to bad build quality and even more so since Brexit because their mum told them they can't play any more, my example is I own a eleven year old Alfa Mito which last year I received a recall notice for a piece of wiring and its associated module, all fitted for free, their attitude is if you look after the customer they might buy another Alfa, Audi won't do this because they consider that we will all be queuing to buy their over priced electric models so all the owners of the fossil fuelled vehicles can go find a sharp stick to sit on and swivel. Steve.

Hi the seized calliper is a common problem but that won't cause the wheel to buckle thats a good old fashioned pothole or side swiping a kerb, I think the AA solved the previous problem as thats another common problem due to the fact that people don't change the plugs as often as they used to. Steve.

Hi every manufacturer of components builds in obsolescence on that component the idea is the car producer makes money out of changing it at a later date, ECU testing identify the problematic chips on the control PCB and replace them with upgraded chips so they are more robust, the manufacturers ignore the weakness of such things as it generates money by them supplying the dealers with new units £££££. The clever bit is they replace the offending items on your unit whilst preserving its coding value, the main dealer won't do that as they can earn more money by re coding a new unit, anyone can code new units provided they have the correct software/diagnostic program to do it VCDS or OBD ELEVEN, please watch the video on youtube the engineers stations where the repairs are carried out are kitted out like the bridge of a starship, the units on our cars are a revolution in so much as they have a mechanical boost system built in to them as a failsafe if the electronic unit lets go, the units are solid state in so much as you can't separate the valve block from the control module, on older modules you could separate the two and just get a second hand control unit and just change it and recode, no where near enough profit from the dealers perspective. Steve.

Hi if you get the car diagnostically scanned that will tell you what is playing up as it will have thrown a code or two up, other than that it would be like playing pin the donkeys tail. Steve.

Hi the job itself is an absolute bar steward its a major strip down which involves dropping the subframe driveshaft and exhaust but if thats the fitting price only and does not include the valve I reckon he is trying to price himself out of that job, they put the EGR half way down the back of the block so its under the cat at the top and behind the exhaust and subframe at the bottom, even the safer option of mapping the EGR out will cause problems with the turbo life and engine bay temps as the engine runs hotter and the exhaust side of the turbo gets to work in a couple of hundred degrees higher gas temp which shortens its life, I would shop about for some other quotes before diving in. Steve.

Hi apparently looking on the website they remanufacture your old unit and make sure it retains its coding, even better just plug in and play after clearing the codes.

Hi thats better therefore I think you are in the right ballpark labour wise just add the price of the seal and any gaskets say around an extra £40. Steve.

Hi just had a gander on youtube ECU testing have a video about your problem with the same dtc apparently its a common problem and their solution is to remanufacture your own unit which would suggest that if you save the long coding for your unit once fitted it would be a case of using the original coding to activate it.

Hi which rear seal are we talking about. Steve.

Hi my best advice is send it to ECU testing, you can try to reflash it but if you get it wrong it will cause a lot of other problems, no one wants to spend £300 but at least you get back a working unit and reinstalled use VCDS to purge the unit and re adapt it there are plenty of youtube how to videos. Steve.

Hi, there lies the problem, most of these mobile people, Techs shall we call them, arrive and plug in take your money and clear off, normally they are considered cheaper than say a static remap company, which they are they have no premises to pay for and often as not have just a basic software program and not the same tailored software platform as for example Blufin, if you buy from them they will go through extensive questioning of what you expect and then give you realtime options of what you can realistically achieve as per the milage on the vehicle, you then get a loading device and its normally a ten minute job to load it via the OBD port, all of their software programs are checked for quality before they get to the end user and the advantage of their system is that you can upload the mapping back out, yes these types of companies are more expensive but what you get is bullet proof technology. If the mapping is working ok just buy another EGR valve and fit it and leave it there, if you block it in another few months you will probably start getting some more codes/lights as the ECU will have worked out there is no gas flow and thats why the EGR is not sending it any data to tell it when the valves open/closed because the valve is jammed in a ton of soot where its backed up past the blanking, mapping out changes the command protocol and tells it to stay shut, the other down side is my mate did it on his transit and over miles the red hot gass melted the blanking plate and allowed the super heated gas into the engine bay which in turn melted the fan housing at the front, remapping is a multi faceted industry and if you go mad with it power wise it causes horrendous and expensive problems which I have personally witnessed on some occasions, it comes down to the old saying, IF YOU WANT FAST,BUY FAST, believe me its cheaper in the long run. Steve.

Hi would suggest it won't affect the original remap but it raises the question why they did not offer to map out the EGR while they were at it, blocking it can be done but that will give you problems at a later date, much better to have the EGR told that its too cold for it to be open then you won't have the problems associated with blanking. Steve.

Hi from your diagnostic info I would say cleaning is not an option, replacement is the only cure after which the new unit will need re adapting, DO NOT ATTEMPT replacement yourself unless you have a very comprehensive tool facility and access to a four poster ramp as there is the worlds supply of stripping down both top and bottom furthermore I would replace the throttle body as I think thats probably shot if the vehicle has high milage its not worth cleaning as the control box is probably on its way out, this to will need re adapting otherwise they run like a bag of nails, I did my daughters one last year and its fairly easy with the right tools. Steve. PS THIS IS THE EGR.

Hi it is not dead by a long way but they would love you to believe that and go buy another, if you look at it logically most of the stuff management wise is a 130k old but with limited expense and willpower there is no real reason why it won't do another 130k thats what pixxes them off, one of my Mondeos did 360k before it got terminated by an Astra van and even the guy who took it away said how well it drove and that was only a quarter of a mile to the recovery truck, its all about keeping the internals as clean as possible, shopping trips will kill your wallet faster than the car, LOL. Steve.

Hi, it might be its reset the EGR back to its closed position past the sticking point, considering most manufacturers consider 100k or ten years is the service life of most vehicles it will be over the 100k that the problems start, I would thoroughly recommend half a can of Lucas Turbo and EGR cleaner down the air intake pipe follow the instructions to the letter its amazing stuff and a cheap fix often as not. Steve.

Hi you have to remove the boot panel inside the boot on the broken side this will probably involve removing the rubber boot seal that side and then have a gentle prise with a plastic trim tool, cam assuming your battery is in the same place as mine in the spare wheel well.

Hi I saw the same guy today as I had to take the customer back to get his car, the engineer waved me down before I left and asked if there was any news subject to what he told me yesterday, I told him none but he went on to say its worth visual checking all the wiring in that area apparently when the wire corrode its a case of chase the ace to find the culprit, I also found another interesting fact that most dealerships have a machine that plugs into the OBD port that runs its own test voltages on the wiring system throws up a schematic of the offending section or module, this normally takes 15mins and they can have lunch in the 1: 3/4 hours thats chargable and fleece the customer for both the part/labour and diagnostics, this guy used to work for BMW so I have no reason to doubt him. I do hope we can solve this problem as times personal effort you are overdue a result, as for talking to people this particular problem has gripped my resolve to find out what it actually is and by asking everybody and anybody who might know I learn things peripheral to the problem. Steve.

Hi yes the EGR will be shut as the ECU has no way of knowing the airflow/ambient temp of the air coming in so therefore goes into a default strategy which involves mixture enrichment so you don't burn valves, the map out is a good shout as its the EGR gas mixed with the oil from the crank case venting system that forms that sticky tar which in turn clogs the inlet manifold and enbalms the swirl flaps in thick black sticky crud, I think they do a swirl flap delete kit on eBay. Steve.

Hi its quite possible as the electrics on these cars don't like voltage spikes, fortunately from memory I think the BEM is on the earth lead on the battery and is fairly cheap/easy to replace, have a look on youtube I remember watching a couple of videos on how to change the BEM. Steve.

Hi Kev its normally a software delete solution for the EGR as blocking it will throw an EML try unplugging the EGR and running it, from experience the EGR is monitored but only chucks out a code when the valve is well and truly stuck so the control unit cant open or close it, I had this on one of my Mondeos where I fitted a new turbo and within a couple of months it was throwing up codes for sticky vanes, I enquired with the company I purchased the unit from and they came back with its the EGR leaking, the EGR was only 15 months old but I changed it anyway and shoved a can of cleaner through the turbo and it all stopped, I later took the old unit and poured white spirit in to the valve chamber and sure enough it leaked through and considering red hot gas is no where near as dense as white spirit it must have been pouring through the tiniest gap, but no codes, Delphi/Wurth are excellent softwares. Steve.

Hi Andrew, I have not heard anything from the techno twins about voltages but in saying that I had a run down to our local German car specialists today so while down there I picked one of the engineers brains, he said that he concurred with my theory that the switch on the cylinder was not able to communicate with the control unit and if you have already fitted an LUK unit which is O.E. and thats not worked its a problem at the other end in the control unit, he then went on to say they had problems before with CCM units in A6 late models as due to moisture ingression the terminals in the plugs had corrode and in one case the wiring to the plugs had become brittle and the plastic covering on the wires was crusty and failing, its worth looking, I am assuming you have the saloon model and if you can get the wiring diagram and position of the module I would be looking at that before I would spend any money on looms/ecus or master cylinders, I will start pestering the other two tomorrow for the voltage stats, but I have a strong feeling that the ECU in the boot is the culprit. Steve.

Hi to be honest I have used your diagnostic software before and found it to be lacking in its ability to interrogate the ECU and other modules, VCDS/OBD Eleven are much better, my guess is its not the MAF as when you disconnect it the smoking stops this is because the car goes in to a default strategy that shuts the EGR valve down, my guess is the EGR internal valve is sticking open sometimes and is still allowing to much gas through when it shouldn't , this would also cause problems with a forced regeneration and as for the car being doctored if the DPF was mapped out it simply wouldn't regenerate however good your software was. Steve.

Hi sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you will need the BEM code from the top of the original battery to code the new one, you have to have VCDS or OBD Eleven to code it there is a video on youtube about how to code the battery using the old code but you have to change one digit of the code so it thinks thats the proper new battery, fitting a smaller battery is no good as the dimensions and amp hour/cranking voltage has to be exactly the same as the old unit, my guess is that the 2015 battery was an AGM for stop start which runs totally different voltage when cranking and I think you have probably fried the BEM module. Steve.

Hi Andrew, I got my master cylinder done today and as per the engineers instructions there is a definite sequence to observed before bleeding it out, to my method I would have just fitted it, bled it, and then tried to start the car, wrong according to our instructions, before you bleed the unit out you must leave the pedal on the floor and then start the car run it for a couple of min then turn it off and bleed it out, looking at it logically think that by the pedal being at the furthest point of travel the sensor at the top of the cylinder registers itself electromagnetically like a Hall sensor and despite my mate snapping the sensor mounting, we had to re mount it and fix it on with cable ties but it still works until I get another cylinder. I have asked the engineer if he can get the voltages for the diagram supplied, he says its not his speciality but he will ask the electrician where he works to look and advise on voltages, to my mind the control unit is blocking the introduction of the new unit as you described you can see the data bits change but its not allowing the the cylinder to register to start the vehicle, I don't honestly think its a wiring problem but it won't hurt to try another piece of loom, I could well be wrong and that solves the problem, also before fitting the new unit we deleted any codes that were present, back to you in a couple of days, it was the master cylinder not releasing the pressure that was causing my clutch to slip, why are these cars so complex. Steve.

Hi no the EGR is at the back halfway down the back of the engine its a large Valeo unit which is water cooled, its exactly the same as the ones used on the Mondeo DW12 engines, just pray they don't go wrong as they are a real mare to remove and you have to get the car in the air so you can get the bolts at the top and bottom but you have to remove half the engine bay to look at it, the unit itself is operated electrically from the PCM for the gas flow control but the bypass valve is pneumatic and and gets clogged and throws a code after its managed to clog the main valve which burns out the electronic drive mechanism. Steve.