Stevey Y

Hi what should happen is you lock the car and the brake light on the switch stays on for about 30 secs to a min and then it should go out. Steve.

Hi I hate to say this but these are ALL classic symptoms of a failing battery, I don't know how old your old battery is but if it was not readapted to the car when fitted it will fail in record time, do you have access to any diagnostics as I am sure these lights are communication fault caused by inconsistent battery voltage, in the old days a car could run on a knackered battery mostly on whatever the alternator puts out but later vehicles won't as the alternator currents always fluctuating. I would start in the boot and check all the wiring and plugs that were anywhere near that water the easiest way to check would be connect the car to a slave battery and run the car on and off a few times to see if any of the lights disappear but TBH plugging in is really the only definitive answer. Steve.

Hi a thousand apologies, thats what comes off the back of a large roast dinner and not paying attention. Steve.

Hi Tony, can you expand on the multiple faults you titled this post with ?. Steve.

Hi this is a possible but unless you can communicate with it via the OBD this would be difficult to track down in the absence of a fault code, there are others who have posted with a similar problem and it turned out to be dodgy wiring in the boot ECU. Steve.

Hi sounds like a glow plug circuit problem but why that would cause a failure of the Can Gateway I don't know, try the simple thing of hosing down the OBD port with electrical cleaner first it could be a filthy pin on the connector. Steve.

Hi hit it with Plusgas and leave it overnight then heat it up with a blowtorch and try twisting it out with a plumbers wrench, it sounds a bit savage but its worked for me, other than that its a cylinder head off job and will need drilling out. Steve.

Hi I think thats a voltage stabiliser module, nothing in the boot enjoys water. Steve.

Hi, there are two fuel pressure regulators in the system, one on the HPFP and one at the end of the fuel rail, my guess is its the fuel rail sensor as if it was the pump sensor it would not run well at any rev range. Steve.

Hi its a universal thing with diesels they all do it especially when treated to lots of short journeys at low speeds, best thing to do is fill it with decent quality fuel and give it a run down the motorway for about twenty miles that will clean most of the crud out, then buy a fuel additive suggest Hydra Maximus I use it in my cab which does a lot of short journeys but because the additive makes the fuel burn more efficiently the regenerations are less aggressive and not as frequent, also stay away from supermarket fuel IT WILL KILL YOUR ENGINE, do not keep stopping when the fans come on as this is known as a aborted regeneration which over time will cause engine/emission system failure. Steve. Steve.

Hi sounds like they are both diesels and trying to regenerate the DPF, the reason for the suggested down shift is to raise the revs to help with the regeneration process by increasing engine temperature. Steve.

Hi I have always found that best policy is replace both as that way you are guaranteed to get the offending unit, unfortunately you can't re lubricate the bearings as they are sealed units the outside seal contains the speed sensor ring, the job itself is not to bad and your garage will love you forever if you go the extra £ and buy the bearings with the hub flange already fitted as that saves the labour on pressing the old one out. The grease in the bearings dries out over time/milage if you consider the age of your car its a testament to the build quality of the bearings. Steve.

Hi I would say then it is probably a dry wheel bearing possibly front as you say it changes when you swap lanes, a knackered bearing would get noisier when you steer left or right, dry bearings only make noise in a straight line. Steve.

Hi looking at it on my parts system it does come up as a one piece unit for that part number, have a look at eBay item number 393394784912 it is not cheap but about £150 in labour it still won't come anywhere near £1500. Steve.

Hi I have just been having a look at the OBD web site and it looks like its only the pro version you can long code with but they have to have an app for that year and model which you have to buy, I think ECU Testing is about your best hope as with the equipment they have if they can talk to the replacement unit there is a good chance they can delete the existing code and replace it with your original coding, nearly all VAG equipped garages are connected online to VAG so the guy is correct when he says the head office won't have it as they only want them coding new parts. Steve.

Hi unfortunately the code is contained within the barcode they went through a phase of that the same as Ford and every other manufacturer, all the Siemens injectors they used had the coding in the barcode so you just read it with a scanner, they stopped that when they realised platforms such as VCDS gave the long coding for the part even if you couldn't communicate with it, does it not show the long coding on OBD as some of the youtube tutorials on OBD show the part number with the coding. Steve.

Hi, this is turning into a real drama, at least you can get your money back minus postage, see how much Audi want for the cluster but beware of the coding charge, do any of the units on eBay look like good propositions as you should be able to code a replacement in with the OBD I think if you save the part coding from your original unit the code for the unit is on a label on the donor unit. Steve.

The engine cranks but will not fire, fired once after i broke down for a very short period of time with not response from throttle and very rough. The pipe circled in red is the one with a split in it which i am guessing is a coolant pipe. The green circled pipe is fitted incorrectly which is where the oil is coming from. Does any of this give any reasoning for why it wont fire up? Hi the red circled pipe is a coolant pipe the other green circled pipe is a turbo boost pipe which if leaking/split will make the car run like a bag of nails. Steve.

Hi to be honest they all do that after about a year as the coating from the factory is only about two microns thick unfortunately if you want better you will have to take the wheels off and purchase some VHT paint and using a good quality paint brush do it your self on a nice hot day where you can give them a nice thick coating it will last the life of the disc. Steve.

Hi if you go to an ordinary garage and they have the later Snap on or Autocom system that should flush out the relevant info. Steve.

Hi have you had a look at the tyres as the budget versions tend to be noisy when worn. Steve.

Hi good find and thanks for publishing it, if the people who have the problem can be bothered to look its a great piece of information, well done. Steve.

Hi who came up with the immaculate diagnosis that the battery is fine, the times I have seen this and when the car is plugged and scanned it throws up a load of non communication faults caused by low voltage, you really do have to have it plugged in and check the date on the battery, the electronic steering uses a lot of voltage. Steve.

Hi the most common place for wiring to break is where the door loom travels into the bodywork as for the headlights its normally corrosion in the connection socket that plugs into the back of the unit, bad earthing is the most likely culprit that causes no end of weired problems especially with the shutter system that controls high beam and low beam. Steve.

Hi Steve is right its normally is the font passenger seat where it gets moved back and forth try disconnecting it and give the terminals a good soak with electrical cleaner, gets rid of years of crud build up, the only sign of a bad ballast is flickering of the light or no light at all. Steve.