Stevey Y

No worries just sorry I can't be of more help I think this problem is going to need a ton of research to peel away the layers to get at the root of the problem, I blame CARB they started this rollercoaster, Lol. Steve.

Hi I don't know what designation your engine is but the one thing I do know is between 2009 and 2012 they had a problem with what was loosely termed low friction petrol engines they had used thinner piston rings and slightly larger bores to defeat friction within the engines and cut emissions, this worked until the engines had more milage on them and the burning of oil caused the rings to stick in and burn even more oil, the only reason that I know of this is my friends wife had an 09 cabriolet which was getting through a litre of oil every week, they had such a problem in the USA with this suffering multiple law suits the government got involved and Audi had to admit to the problem and retrofit different blocks to the offending engines at their expense to rectify the problem, this started an avalanche of litigation in Europe which is how my friends wife got her engine fixed after several monitoring sessions with Audi who kept telling her the oil consumption was normal and her threatening legal action they finally rebuilt the engine, this problem is extensively catalogued on the internet with loads of info on which engines were affected, if you look on the archives of this site its probably received more than a mention. Steve.

Hi the difference between the 30-40 is the upper operating temperature, in hot countries 40 is recommended over 30 as 40 denotes the degrees at which the oil will protect the engine, the 05w is the winter grading meaning it will happily allow the engine to crank and raise oil pressure at minus 5 degrees in very cold countries they use 0 as the winter benchmark as this denotes that it will allow cranking and a subsequent oil pressure up to minus 15 degrees. I think your problem is its burning oil which won't manifest itself as blue smoke as the oil is low saps [ash] and is designed to burn clean. Steve.

Hi as quoted before the letter on the end denotes the year of the batch commission, have a look on eBay and as long as the first bit of the part number is the same just put in a request with your VIN and a will this fit my car, furthermore I would suspect the fan motor more, an easy way to test it is disconnect the plug from the module and bridge the two terminals with a piece of wire then turn on ignition and see if it works, if it does its the module if not you may be in for a new fan pack which comes with a module, I can thoroughly recommend a company on the net called Auto Air, Steve.

Hi Any wear in the anti roll bar bushes can cause a noise I sort of doubted the top mount unit unit I had a look at one and the bearing is integral so it is possible thats it but they normally clunk or grind when turning the steering in view of the very low cost and fitting time I would try the ARB bushes first and as for the bearings they are made by Febi so unless you went for the real cheap option I can't see that being the problem, so if you buy O.E. Mounts you would be paying more for the same item in an Audi box. Steve.

Hi Henry sorry for the late reply, I think from the last post that the can gateway 19 is the cause of most of your troubles if thats out of kilter its a pandoras box there is information on the Ross tech forum its via some American guy who has the same list virtually as your self it involves reprogramming the offending modules using a binary formula for the codes to get the can gateway back on side it may well be worth a read, I did try to understand it more but over lengthy perusal I realised it was a little over my pay grade, if your VCDS is genuine it may well be worth flying the question on the Ross Tech forum, they cited 07 as being the electric seat module failure. Steve.

Hi it sounds a bit like a DMF problem my car is doing the same until warmed up assuming its a manual, if its DSG it could well be the same thing and that oily smell is knackered gearbox oil vapour exiting the breather which should have a green/black plastic cap on it that sits just behind the engine on top of the gearbox its a rubbish design as the plastic deteriorates and it falls off, replaced mine twice now, Audi want £6.00 a unit Vs two for £5.00 off of eBay. Steve.

Hi, I think it could well be the roll bar bar bushes as the ride height for the bushes is set at the factory in the centre of where the up and down movement, arc occurs, by lowering the car you change the dynamics of the arc and if you consider that the bushes are clamped so the bar is gripped at the optimum point to allow the bush to flex within given movement parameters whilst still gripping the bar without moving on the bar, try giving the bush that side a liberal hosing down with WD40 or similar if it stops squeaking new bushes it is. Steve.

Hi yep any miss behaving component on the power supply will cause weird and Wonderfull problems with anything electrical, you say you have replaced the regulator and it did not work, I am thinking that this may be due to the new one needing re coding, think the old unit is at fault possibly, can you scan the old unit and retrieve the coding and make a record of that coding as that would give you a failsafe to fall back on, to be honest the electronics are very complex on these vehicles which started back in the nineties in an effort to curb home repairs as lets face it no one except Audi had access to the software required to perform any tasks. With the advent of VCDS/VAGCOM being available to the public they then had to find ways of still making repairs that much more difficult for the average DIY enthusiast, there have been posts on the net about people who have bypassed the energy monitor with great success until a couple of weeks later the alternator stops charging and the airbag light comes on because the Body control module can't read the pulse signals from the airbag module because the battery energy module has been bypassed, the whole thing is daisy chained together to stop anyone from removing components from the chain, sorry if this is not a very helpful reply but this is how they drag you to the nearest dealer kicking and screaming. Steve.

Hi, if you observe the date on the faults they are old, first question if you delete them do they come back?, if so its the body control module hanging on to redundant information, somewhere on VCDS there should be a BCM, BEM, reset the problem is that over time all these modules become crammed with redundant info and throw up erroneous codes, the only way round that is a reset, back to first base, alternatively if its not causing a problem and throwing up an EML leave it, I had the same problem with a Ford once but over four years and 200,000 miles the only person that knew the codes were there was me. Steve.

Hi Blueprint/TRW/BOSCH for the brakes. Steve.

Hi, no worries please let us know how you get on, everyone likes a happy ending, be lucky mate. Steve.

Hi it probably is but only if you do the appropriate checks as described especially the inspection and the service etc, especially if its a dealership service history from Audi my car had that and believe me they had not done half of what was printed on the sheet, if its a higher milage car with full service history collated by the owner with bills to match from a local garage they are always worth a punt as any owner who does that has been meticulous about the cars upkeep. Steve.

Hi thats alright its universaly known that most dealers consider that when the car is sold the owner will automatically have their surname changed by deed poll to Hunt, keep going the law trading standards are on your side keep a record of the discrepancies between the milage and what they claim to have done, basically it boils down to the vehicle not being fit for purpose which when you are buying at that level should be a non event, I had it once with a nearly new Ford that I bought from the dealers it took a few months but by the time trading standards were hurling a ton of letters I got what I wanted which was a new engine, I would never buy another car from a main dealer again as from talking to owners of other brands the dealers are all the same. Prime example one of my fellow cabbies bought his wife an approved used Nissan Juke from the local dealer with a full years warranty, six weeks later the automatic gearbox let go at 28k of which my mate owned 1k of milage the dealers agreed to put in a new box under warranty, so when he went to collect the car they told him the repair had come to.........£5000 which he did not have to pay but there was a small matter of £260.00 inc vat for consumables that were not covered by the warranty, my friend smiled politely and thanked them for fixing the car, then walked straight out with the keys, my point is these cretins will use any fairy story to get rid of a problem or just squeeze a last few quid out of the customer. Steve.

Hi if its an Audi dealer they have any previous service records on record which is not deleted until they are informed the vehicle is scrapped or written off, if its a general trade dealer they tend to lie about most instances like that because they can't be bothered to dig for it. Used to be the address of the previous owner was on the log book which was helpful but they stopped doing that, just the number of former keepers now, if you are halfway set on it get either a friend who knows about cars to look at it or alternatively the Full Monty AA inspection those guys are paid to find any faults and although not cheap may well save you a fortune in the future if you had ended up buying a LEMON, the only thing they can't check accurately is the cam belt therefore if you buy the car that would be your first line of defence change the cam belt and have a full service. Steve.

Hi I have never heard such a load of old Cr@p, I have a manual diesel model a 2.0tdi ultra and my friend has a year newer S Line same engine but his is DSG and I can tell you this for a fact my car is quick off the line but my mates one is even quicker, the torque comes in a lot quicker on a diesel from about 1,000 rpm round to 2,500 rpm which is the optimal curve. Steve.

Hi use black Tiger Seal very carefully in small quantities tape off the surrounding area with masking tape and smooth it off with a teaspoon dipped in white spirit, the Tiger Seal grips like there is no tomorrow and fills the gaps where it has come away and remains very flexible after curing. Steve.

Hi someone else posted about this a while ago, whilst the rear camera retrofit kit is reasonable from Audi the price for coding/activation is over twice what the camera costs. Steve.

Hi you nailed it on the first two suggestions, 1.0 and three cylinder I suspect its the same engine as the VW UP Seat MII they all rattle I think its just a characteristic of these small engines, in fact all small engines rattle in my experience try listening to a small Peugeot or Citroen they are a lot worse, as long as its not using oil and not knocking it will be fine. Steve.

Hi, try looking at the throttle valve and more importantly get it scanned for codes that will give you a better idea of what is occurring. Steve.

Hi which sensor did you unplug, also which diagnostic program are you using, if it still runs the only thing else you can do is buy an add to the fuel DPF cleaner and take it for a good run dual carriageway if possible the other alternative is a forced regeneration cycle, if you do this make sure the car is sitting somewhere with good open air ventilation, the other thing is you will have to have all sensors connected. Steve.

Hi was not sure about the headlight removal on your model but if you can remove them without disturbing anything else, HAPPY DAYS, they are much easier to work on when out, personally I would start with 800 grit and plenty of soap as that way you won't spend hours trying to get the 600 marks out, I agree with the finish at 3000 but you can get a better finish by going to 1200 and then if you can get your hands on a small random orbital polisher 4inch you can finish wth a light cutting compound alcohol degrease and then coat them, just don't go mad with the pressure or you will burn the plastic keep the paper moving, the orbital mp might seem extravagant but mine has saved me fortunes in paint repairs when I have just polished scratches out. Steve.

Hi, you can sand the majority of it out but you will require a kit to re coat the lenses when you have finished, as I say it won't all go but will be a vast improvement, the only other route is to buy some replacement lenses and fit them, this will involve removing the bumper to get the lights out plenty of vids on youtube but this method requires a lot of time and patience to obtain the required results. Steve.

Hi to be totally accurate the best way is remove the door card and read the coding tags on the wiring as they all differ according to which options were available at that time worse ways you will have a few screws to remove but won't have to remove the loom before you buy a new one, chances are any problems you may have could be just down to a broken wire in the Flexi boot between the door and the body. Steve.

Hi, personally I would not give a dead rat for dealer service, this weekend I went with my daughter to buy an Audi Q3 from a private seller, 160 mile round trip, this had almost full Audi dealer history with the last work being carried out by a Bosch service centre in Feb of this year which included a new clutch and gearbox both supplied by Audi, the people concerned had gone the whole hog and had it serviced as well, the bill was well over three grand. The last Mot stated as an advisory that the brakes were low and the price of the vehicle was adjusted to compensate for this, I got it home and ripped into the brakes the next day the EML came on, when read it said the throttle position sensor was faulty, trolling through the service history Audi had looked at it the year before 2020 and diagnosed that a new battery was needed because the stop start was unavailable, the car with new battery was not driven that much during the lockdown, when normality was resumed and the light came on again the Bosch service centre tried to tell the owner it needed another new battery they declined on the grounds it had already had one so they put the light out and peace was restored until I bought the car, having tested the throttle potentiometer, AKA the accelerator pedal which had all the correct voltages we then move to the throttle valve on the intake which is definitely not working properly I enquired with Audi how much for a new one, after an argument with the parts guy who reckons the Diesel engines don't have a throttle valve, finally had a conversation with an older technician who explained they call it an anti shudder valve and gave me the eye watering price for a new unit. What I want to know is how these dealership/Bosch technicians can't work out whats wrong and a Cab driver in Essex with far less equipment at his disposal CAN, most of the information is on any VAG forum [thank the lord] and apparently the throttle body units have nylon drive gears which loose teeth with age, not only is there a repair kit available for thirteen quid but an new FEBI O.E unit is available for £120.00 which is about half the dealer price and with a two year guarantee its a no brainer, even if you bought the part and got the local indie to fit it. Steve.