Stevey Y

Hi unfortunately that particular design was doomed to fail shortly after the surround seal gave it up and let in water, if you poach the Audi part number off the listing you can Google it and see if its cheaper elsewhere. Steve.

Hi Roy most informative video, I particularly liked the soldering/saddering part where his industrial size soldering gun was flying about and melting bits of the shielding on other wires and the total omission of how he found which wire was what I heard something about a multimeter at one point. Anyway I digress the reason I said to save the long coding was that it gives you a reference point if you change the units and they don't want to play, chances are all will be fine as long as you know if your system is UDS/Non UDS as the procedures for cycling the calipers are different for both also make sure you have a battery charger or donor battery connected to the jump posts as sudden voltage drop will kill your hand brake control module, also he did not mention he had left the battery connected while mucking about with wires its a dodgy hobby. Steve.

Hi I think you will get exactly what you want with that finish, just stay clear of acid wheel cleaner as that will kill the paint in record time. Steve.

Hi if you get the car scanned the fault code should tell you which part is malfunctioning. Steve.

Hi disregard the previous post as I have just looked at mine and its the same as yours apparently the pipe with no connection measures the atmospheric pressure against the the realtime pressure from the pipe that is connected to the DPF via a long metal pipe, I think you are probably right about the DPF issue as the variables for that code are massive anything from boost control valve, clogged turbo vanes, boost diverter valve, they all lead to one thing a build up of crud, the cheapest option is give it a bottle of Wynns EGR cleaner and give it a nice long run down the motorway if that sorts it the crud in the emissions system is your problem, from a quick research even Audi have problems diagnosing this one. All these cost cutting solutions they come up with just create more problems than they solve for the end user. Steve.

Hi as I said both pipes should connect one to a metal pipe before the DPF and the other to a metal pipe after the DPF, its in there somewhere, have the splash pan off and have a look from underneath. Steve.

Hi in the old days you had a pressure sensor as a separate unit on the cylinder head therefore if you cut down on the extra machining and put the thing in one of the glow plugs its yet another manufacturing saving and according to the Gurus is a more efficient until it goes wrong, I have very rarely come across this before but apparently Vauxhall Nissan and a host of others have changed over to the same system, this means you have to buy four ordinary glow plugs to get the other three normal plugs unless you want to buy the whole set which includes the SPECIAL ONE for a shade under four hundred quid. Steve.

Hi basically its telling you that the pressure switch is reducing the gearbox function due to lack of oil pressure therefore its put itself in to a protection strategy so the gearbox won't self destruct due to the leak, the drivers mirror adjustment fault could be down to corrosion in a connector block but I would definitely get the gearbox leak sorted first, as for the bang I have no idea. It would have been wiser to post the codes and reports first as they are real time info and not a description from a personal perspective of what happened, it cuts out the guess work. Steve.

Hi get it scanned for fault codes that will tell you what part is playing up. Steve.

Hi both pipes should go to the DPF one before and one after the DPF that is why its known as a pressure differential sensor as it measures the air pressure going in and the pressure at the other end going out, thats how it knows when the DPF is blocking, check to see if either pipe is broken as that will be your problem. Steve.

Hi it could well be gear oil as the box is struggling to maintain enough pressure to drive the car. Steve.

Hi TBH that is not a bad finish, I would not stick my nose up at that considering the age of the vehicle the stove blacking is obviously doing a sterling job of keeping the corrosion at bay, its got a sort of retro gothic look. Steve.

Hi if there is nothing wrong with the old callipers I would of given them a good going over with some 120 grit oxide paper then a good clean with rubbing alcohol before painting, and yes just use the existing servo units. Nice job with the painting. Steve.

Hi guys got an EML up today so I dodged home and got me code reader which hurled up P13D600 internal pressure sensor cylinder 3 implausible signal, new one on me but it turns out cylinder three glow plug is a bit special as it has a cylinder pressure sensor built in to it, the rest of the plugs are about twelve quid a go but not number three thats so special on its own its between £100-120, only putting this out as an accelerated milage model like mine 122,400 miles these things are beginning to occur. Steve.

Hi thats correct but you gave no clue as to whats wrong with the old ones so I was working on the assumption that one or both sides had some sort of failure electronically, if you don't have to replace the actuators all good but whatever you do put the rear brakes into service/pad change mode before fitting new units and above all do not unplug the drive motors or you will loose the existing coding, then you will have real problems. Steve.

Hi various car designs are only the tip of the iceberg, what about all the badge engineered spare parts including VAG brake pads a few years ago, real value for money they were as when tested at MIRA they only took an extra sixty feet to slow down from 50mph and the sad gits at Eurocarparts had sold loads of them, but I think theirs came with a set of rosary beads for the impromptu prayer meeting when braking. Steve.

My word chaps its handbags at dawn

Hi Kev if you think about it logically, ECU Testing is the better bet, worse case scenario is it is scrap for which they only charge a small fee, if its repairable !Removed! marvellous as this comes with a guarantee which you can beat them with if it fails in short order, if you DIY the job and it still won't work you will never know why because us mere mortals don't possess the test rigs they have. Steve.

Hi if the part numbers are the same it should be a straight swap but save the long coding from your old unit just in case. Steve.

Hi they will need recoding and adaptation but if you have Vagcom its doable just make sure you save the original long coding as that will get you out of the cr@p if it starts going sideways. Steve

Hi yes plenty of retrofit units but they are expensive and the LEDs used normally fail quickly. Steve.

Hi there are lots of companies that repair these, ECU Testing are about the best if they can't fix it its genuinely had it and they are always capable of offering an alternative solution. Steve.

Hi yes down the road when you are buying new Turbos every two years because they are burnt up and perhaps the occasional valve because they are burnt, the advent of EGR gave the manufacturer an outage on metal components for engines as they are now running 40% cooler therefore the components inside the engine don't have to withstand the thermal stresses that the older engines suffered as the old rule of thumb was the hotter they run the more efficient the burn and more power, trouble is the hotter they run the more Nox 1 they produce, everything is now designed to run cooler so the metallurgy changed with it. Steve.

Hi why are you replacing the module? Steve.

Hi the bar stewards at Audi have not yet released the patent for the clutches in the UK but my garage managed to get all in from TPS for 1450.00 plus about another £30 quid for the seals driveshaft/slave cylinder, the clutch driven plate and pressure plate have recently appeared on eBay circa £280-320 from Lithuania, the flywheel at sub £500 all genuine parts, the slave cylinders anything between 90-150 pounds, its worth looking at European sites as you are still in it judging by the euro quotes, I found my clutch £400.00 cheaper on a German site but was excluded as the UK is now out and they won't ship to Essex. On another note I have recently found out from my new friend that most of the manual versions of our car suffered with a problem which was designated DEW, in other words a build up of moisture in the bell housing which would cause random slippage, the cure apparently was take it for a long drive sixty miles plus and get it nice and hot, so before you start throwing money at it try that, the Dew build up is caused by short journeys and lots of town driving, if it works its cheaper than a new clutch. Steve.