Stevey Y

Hi have a look on youtube thats where I go for a dummy run, if you are halfway decent with a spanner and have a good selection of tools it looks fairly simple just observe the correct torque settings when bolting it back together and any special tools you might need. I helped my neighbour do an oil change on his TT Quattro's Haldex unit apparently they are supposed to be very difficult but he had bought an O.E. service kit, god they are cheap, and the filter removal spanner, I came away a bit underwhelmed, yes it was fiddly but the hardest bit was getting the filler plug in before the new oil spilled out, I aint as flexible as I used to be lol. Steve.

Hi he has basically sold you a vehicle which under the letter of the law is not fit for purpose, therefore I don't think there is room for argument, be calm and if possible without being obvious record your discussion on your phone this will stand you at a good first base if it won't go your way and gets gritty, personally I hope he just rolls over and fixes it. It makes me sad when things like this happen as I have a customer who buys and sells cars privately but with the better makes of vehicle even with higher milage he won't budge on the price as this allows him a margin to do any repairs that despite careful inspection may occur in the first six months of new ownership and still leave a modest profit. Steve.

Hi seek advice from your local trading standards office they will advise you to get into dialogue written or email with the dealer, as a last resort start a small claims petition [Details at local Crown Court] to recover your expenses this normally works as a CCJ won't look good on there record and will hinder their ability to work with finance companies. Steve.

Hi, the recommended service interval is every 30k, there was a guy Don G who posted the same problem a few months ago and was advised that it might well be a mechatronics unit so he went for the cheaper option of a gearbox service, that cured it, BTW there are companies out there on the net that sell recon units and will also recon your own mechatronics unit on a three day turn round, there are a couple of drivers on my cab circuit that have Skodas with what is the same type of gearbox these have achieved over 200k without a rebuild so I seriously doubt you need a full rebuild as the mechanical parts of these gearboxes are very robust also google DSG gearbox specialists in your area and get a few informed opinions, you may even have to look a bit further to achieve what you require. Steve.

Hi if the CV joint is clicking its normally caused by lack of grease and means the interior components are worn which manifests itself as a clicking noise when turning, this does not exclude vibration when travelling in a straight line the inertia on the CV is less when not at an acute angle but the wear is still there which is why the vibration sets in under acceleration, its basically dry spheres metal on metal with not enough good grease to accommodate the wear, it may appear to have plenty of grease when the boot is removed but have you seen the size of the grease sachet they supply with a new joint, believe me the joints need it all even the excess in the boot. Steve.

Hi when was the transmission last serviced, could be the oil and filters are knackered, quite a common problem apparently. Steve.

Hi wipe it all off with a wet cloth and then you will see exactly where its come from, my guess is the diffuser is partially blocked and the back pressure is blowing past the seal where the pipe connects to the diffuser. Steve.

Hi looks like something to do with the seat adjuster. Steve.

Hi Arron what is the model and what engine is it fitted with, then you may have some suggestions. Steve.

Hi Febi supply the mounts and a shed load of other parts as O.E., I found that out when I bought my oil level sensor, Audi wanted nearly £200 with the VAT so I bought a Febi sensor from my local spares shop for £67 and guess what the Febi item was exactly the same except someone had ground the VAG/Audi logos off of the casing, the only thing left was all the casting numbers which matched perfectly, the guy at the spares place told me they do it all the time as they are not allowed to sell O.E. marked parts in their packaging, so if you want to buy a badge engineered part in the right box for twice the price +, knock yourself out. Steve.

Hi Richard you are on top form with this one, well done its info I have looked at before but after a twelve hour shift had no motivation to go back to, 10/10. Steve.

No worries just sorry I can't be of more help I think this problem is going to need a ton of research to peel away the layers to get at the root of the problem, I blame CARB they started this rollercoaster, Lol. Steve.

Hi I don't know what designation your engine is but the one thing I do know is between 2009 and 2012 they had a problem with what was loosely termed low friction petrol engines they had used thinner piston rings and slightly larger bores to defeat friction within the engines and cut emissions, this worked until the engines had more milage on them and the burning of oil caused the rings to stick in and burn even more oil, the only reason that I know of this is my friends wife had an 09 cabriolet which was getting through a litre of oil every week, they had such a problem in the USA with this suffering multiple law suits the government got involved and Audi had to admit to the problem and retrofit different blocks to the offending engines at their expense to rectify the problem, this started an avalanche of litigation in Europe which is how my friends wife got her engine fixed after several monitoring sessions with Audi who kept telling her the oil consumption was normal and her threatening legal action they finally rebuilt the engine, this problem is extensively catalogued on the internet with loads of info on which engines were affected, if you look on the archives of this site its probably received more than a mention. Steve.

Hi the difference between the 30-40 is the upper operating temperature, in hot countries 40 is recommended over 30 as 40 denotes the degrees at which the oil will protect the engine, the 05w is the winter grading meaning it will happily allow the engine to crank and raise oil pressure at minus 5 degrees in very cold countries they use 0 as the winter benchmark as this denotes that it will allow cranking and a subsequent oil pressure up to minus 15 degrees. I think your problem is its burning oil which won't manifest itself as blue smoke as the oil is low saps [ash] and is designed to burn clean. Steve.

Hi as quoted before the letter on the end denotes the year of the batch commission, have a look on eBay and as long as the first bit of the part number is the same just put in a request with your VIN and a will this fit my car, furthermore I would suspect the fan motor more, an easy way to test it is disconnect the plug from the module and bridge the two terminals with a piece of wire then turn on ignition and see if it works, if it does its the module if not you may be in for a new fan pack which comes with a module, I can thoroughly recommend a company on the net called Auto Air, Steve.

Hi Any wear in the anti roll bar bushes can cause a noise I sort of doubted the top mount unit unit I had a look at one and the bearing is integral so it is possible thats it but they normally clunk or grind when turning the steering in view of the very low cost and fitting time I would try the ARB bushes first and as for the bearings they are made by Febi so unless you went for the real cheap option I can't see that being the problem, so if you buy O.E. Mounts you would be paying more for the same item in an Audi box. Steve.

Hi Henry sorry for the late reply, I think from the last post that the can gateway 19 is the cause of most of your troubles if thats out of kilter its a pandoras box there is information on the Ross tech forum its via some American guy who has the same list virtually as your self it involves reprogramming the offending modules using a binary formula for the codes to get the can gateway back on side it may well be worth a read, I did try to understand it more but over lengthy perusal I realised it was a little over my pay grade, if your VCDS is genuine it may well be worth flying the question on the Ross Tech forum, they cited 07 as being the electric seat module failure. Steve.

Hi it sounds a bit like a DMF problem my car is doing the same until warmed up assuming its a manual, if its DSG it could well be the same thing and that oily smell is knackered gearbox oil vapour exiting the breather which should have a green/black plastic cap on it that sits just behind the engine on top of the gearbox its a rubbish design as the plastic deteriorates and it falls off, replaced mine twice now, Audi want £6.00 a unit Vs two for £5.00 off of eBay. Steve.

Hi, I think it could well be the roll bar bar bushes as the ride height for the bushes is set at the factory in the centre of where the up and down movement, arc occurs, by lowering the car you change the dynamics of the arc and if you consider that the bushes are clamped so the bar is gripped at the optimum point to allow the bush to flex within given movement parameters whilst still gripping the bar without moving on the bar, try giving the bush that side a liberal hosing down with WD40 or similar if it stops squeaking new bushes it is. Steve.

Hi yep any miss behaving component on the power supply will cause weird and Wonderfull problems with anything electrical, you say you have replaced the regulator and it did not work, I am thinking that this may be due to the new one needing re coding, think the old unit is at fault possibly, can you scan the old unit and retrieve the coding and make a record of that coding as that would give you a failsafe to fall back on, to be honest the electronics are very complex on these vehicles which started back in the nineties in an effort to curb home repairs as lets face it no one except Audi had access to the software required to perform any tasks. With the advent of VCDS/VAGCOM being available to the public they then had to find ways of still making repairs that much more difficult for the average DIY enthusiast, there have been posts on the net about people who have bypassed the energy monitor with great success until a couple of weeks later the alternator stops charging and the airbag light comes on because the Body control module can't read the pulse signals from the airbag module because the battery energy module has been bypassed, the whole thing is daisy chained together to stop anyone from removing components from the chain, sorry if this is not a very helpful reply but this is how they drag you to the nearest dealer kicking and screaming. Steve.

Hi, if you observe the date on the faults they are old, first question if you delete them do they come back?, if so its the body control module hanging on to redundant information, somewhere on VCDS there should be a BCM, BEM, reset the problem is that over time all these modules become crammed with redundant info and throw up erroneous codes, the only way round that is a reset, back to first base, alternatively if its not causing a problem and throwing up an EML leave it, I had the same problem with a Ford once but over four years and 200,000 miles the only person that knew the codes were there was me. Steve.

Hi Blueprint/TRW/BOSCH for the brakes. Steve.

Hi, no worries please let us know how you get on, everyone likes a happy ending, be lucky mate. Steve.

Hi it probably is but only if you do the appropriate checks as described especially the inspection and the service etc, especially if its a dealership service history from Audi my car had that and believe me they had not done half of what was printed on the sheet, if its a higher milage car with full service history collated by the owner with bills to match from a local garage they are always worth a punt as any owner who does that has been meticulous about the cars upkeep. Steve.

Hi thats alright its universaly known that most dealers consider that when the car is sold the owner will automatically have their surname changed by deed poll to Hunt, keep going the law trading standards are on your side keep a record of the discrepancies between the milage and what they claim to have done, basically it boils down to the vehicle not being fit for purpose which when you are buying at that level should be a non event, I had it once with a nearly new Ford that I bought from the dealers it took a few months but by the time trading standards were hurling a ton of letters I got what I wanted which was a new engine, I would never buy another car from a main dealer again as from talking to owners of other brands the dealers are all the same. Prime example one of my fellow cabbies bought his wife an approved used Nissan Juke from the local dealer with a full years warranty, six weeks later the automatic gearbox let go at 28k of which my mate owned 1k of milage the dealers agreed to put in a new box under warranty, so when he went to collect the car they told him the repair had come to.........£5000 which he did not have to pay but there was a small matter of £260.00 inc vat for consumables that were not covered by the warranty, my friend smiled politely and thanked them for fixing the car, then walked straight out with the keys, my point is these cretins will use any fairy story to get rid of a problem or just squeeze a last few quid out of the customer. Steve.