Stevey Y

Hi if its an Audi dealer they have any previous service records on record which is not deleted until they are informed the vehicle is scrapped or written off, if its a general trade dealer they tend to lie about most instances like that because they can't be bothered to dig for it. Used to be the address of the previous owner was on the log book which was helpful but they stopped doing that, just the number of former keepers now, if you are halfway set on it get either a friend who knows about cars to look at it or alternatively the Full Monty AA inspection those guys are paid to find any faults and although not cheap may well save you a fortune in the future if you had ended up buying a LEMON, the only thing they can't check accurately is the cam belt therefore if you buy the car that would be your first line of defence change the cam belt and have a full service. Steve.

Hi I have never heard such a load of old Cr@p, I have a manual diesel model a 2.0tdi ultra and my friend has a year newer S Line same engine but his is DSG and I can tell you this for a fact my car is quick off the line but my mates one is even quicker, the torque comes in a lot quicker on a diesel from about 1,000 rpm round to 2,500 rpm which is the optimal curve. Steve.

Hi use black Tiger Seal very carefully in small quantities tape off the surrounding area with masking tape and smooth it off with a teaspoon dipped in white spirit, the Tiger Seal grips like there is no tomorrow and fills the gaps where it has come away and remains very flexible after curing. Steve.

Hi someone else posted about this a while ago, whilst the rear camera retrofit kit is reasonable from Audi the price for coding/activation is over twice what the camera costs. Steve.

Hi you nailed it on the first two suggestions, 1.0 and three cylinder I suspect its the same engine as the VW UP Seat MII they all rattle I think its just a characteristic of these small engines, in fact all small engines rattle in my experience try listening to a small Peugeot or Citroen they are a lot worse, as long as its not using oil and not knocking it will be fine. Steve.

Hi, try looking at the throttle valve and more importantly get it scanned for codes that will give you a better idea of what is occurring. Steve.

Hi which sensor did you unplug, also which diagnostic program are you using, if it still runs the only thing else you can do is buy an add to the fuel DPF cleaner and take it for a good run dual carriageway if possible the other alternative is a forced regeneration cycle, if you do this make sure the car is sitting somewhere with good open air ventilation, the other thing is you will have to have all sensors connected. Steve.

Hi was not sure about the headlight removal on your model but if you can remove them without disturbing anything else, HAPPY DAYS, they are much easier to work on when out, personally I would start with 800 grit and plenty of soap as that way you won't spend hours trying to get the 600 marks out, I agree with the finish at 3000 but you can get a better finish by going to 1200 and then if you can get your hands on a small random orbital polisher 4inch you can finish wth a light cutting compound alcohol degrease and then coat them, just don't go mad with the pressure or you will burn the plastic keep the paper moving, the orbital mp might seem extravagant but mine has saved me fortunes in paint repairs when I have just polished scratches out. Steve.

Hi, you can sand the majority of it out but you will require a kit to re coat the lenses when you have finished, as I say it won't all go but will be a vast improvement, the only other route is to buy some replacement lenses and fit them, this will involve removing the bumper to get the lights out plenty of vids on youtube but this method requires a lot of time and patience to obtain the required results. Steve.

Hi to be totally accurate the best way is remove the door card and read the coding tags on the wiring as they all differ according to which options were available at that time worse ways you will have a few screws to remove but won't have to remove the loom before you buy a new one, chances are any problems you may have could be just down to a broken wire in the Flexi boot between the door and the body. Steve.

Hi, personally I would not give a dead rat for dealer service, this weekend I went with my daughter to buy an Audi Q3 from a private seller, 160 mile round trip, this had almost full Audi dealer history with the last work being carried out by a Bosch service centre in Feb of this year which included a new clutch and gearbox both supplied by Audi, the people concerned had gone the whole hog and had it serviced as well, the bill was well over three grand. The last Mot stated as an advisory that the brakes were low and the price of the vehicle was adjusted to compensate for this, I got it home and ripped into the brakes the next day the EML came on, when read it said the throttle position sensor was faulty, trolling through the service history Audi had looked at it the year before 2020 and diagnosed that a new battery was needed because the stop start was unavailable, the car with new battery was not driven that much during the lockdown, when normality was resumed and the light came on again the Bosch service centre tried to tell the owner it needed another new battery they declined on the grounds it had already had one so they put the light out and peace was restored until I bought the car, having tested the throttle potentiometer, AKA the accelerator pedal which had all the correct voltages we then move to the throttle valve on the intake which is definitely not working properly I enquired with Audi how much for a new one, after an argument with the parts guy who reckons the Diesel engines don't have a throttle valve, finally had a conversation with an older technician who explained they call it an anti shudder valve and gave me the eye watering price for a new unit. What I want to know is how these dealership/Bosch technicians can't work out whats wrong and a Cab driver in Essex with far less equipment at his disposal CAN, most of the information is on any VAG forum [thank the lord] and apparently the throttle body units have nylon drive gears which loose teeth with age, not only is there a repair kit available for thirteen quid but an new FEBI O.E unit is available for £120.00 which is about half the dealer price and with a two year guarantee its a no brainer, even if you bought the part and got the local indie to fit it. Steve.

Hi Don glad you got it sorted, from what you say I would assume that the remap put to much strain on the relays changing up/down faster these cars are pretty twitchy with the monitored sensors and mucking about with this is way over my pay grade. Steve.

Hi did the mechanic tell you when you fit the new sensor you have to do the adaptations after clearing the fault codes the clue is in the fault frequency and not confirmed, tested since memory CLEAR, put the codes to bed and do the sensor adaptations I am pretty sure it will be fine. Steve.

Hi Yuasa are a premium battery they are used on practically every Japanese motor cycle built and the American military use them on some of their vehicles, you have to register the battery with the BEM module this is done with a diagnostic platform VCDS or Snap on. Steve.

Hi what grade oil are you using as that can have an effect on the problem. Steve.

Hi try contacting ECU Testing they may well have a repaired unit in stock. Steve.

Hi as Gareth said its most likely the battery, it is a feature of AGM batteries that the stop start will not function as it draws massive amounts of amperage every time it kicks in so as the battery gets older it can do without the extra grief, the sad fact of the matter is stop start really is not that efficient in cutting emissions as every time you start up again the PCM goes through a slight enrichment procedure to make sure the engine starts, more fuel extra emissions, I just turn mine off when I start up and eventually there is a process on my diagnostic software to disable stop/start which I intend to use, the only real benefit of this particular technology is that it makes more money for the dealerships replacing starter motors and worse case scenarios DMFs because its creamed the ring gear in record time. Steve.

Hi its the hydraulic tappets not quite sitting properly as the oil is thick when that cold and it forms larger molecules when cold and is slower going through the Venturi that are very small but help to maintain the clearance between the cam followers and the cam lobes therefore until warm the clearances are slightly larger so it rattles a bit. Steve.

Hi that could be an ancillary drive belt slipping where the engine is struggling worth checking the condition of the belt and tensioner as most people tend to forget about this item until it breaks, the belt is supposed to be changed every 30k or two years, I digress if you cure the rough cold start I have a feeling the rubbing noise will go with it provided there is nothing wrong with the belt cracking on the running ribs etc. Steve.

Hi, could be the glow plugs are beginning to fail this won't throw up any codes when they are weak but will let you have a light or a code when not operating. Steve.

Hi its deffo on line from the Hydra site, or get mine off of eBay some sellers are offering it for a couple of quid less but if you want it real quick get it off Hydra direct. Steve.

No worries I hope you are very happy with the smoother running and extra MPG.

Hi keeping the power supply continuity preserves the codings until you register the new battery, as if you don't marry the new battery up with the BEM it carries on overcharging the new battery and kills it in record time. Try emailing Ross Tech with your problem my friend did it with a steering sqib on a Passat and they told him how to recover the codes. Steve.

Hi can't quite understand what you are driving at the MAP measures the pressure differential between the air coming in reading supplied by the MAF sensor and what has actually arrived at the manifold the exhaust temp sensor lives next to the oxygen sensor and there is another one after the cat. Steve.

Hi well if you consider where that sensor lives it is not the most friendly of environments constant stratospheric temperatures just like my oxygen sensor therefore at five years and seventy thousand its not done to badly. Steve.