ukplay

I haven't had anything done emissions-wise (although cannot say if the previous owner had/hadn't). Just sitting at 70-75ish on a decent trip to the Isle of Wight (when we could in the summer...) i got nearer to 40 overall, but on the flip-side when my heavier right foot is in play it doesn't ever fall below 31-32 - which for what the car is I still think is pretty great. Just a word of caution on re-mapping (in my experience of course). My previous car was a Mk7 VW Golf R, which I had various things done and was dyno'd at 382bhp - it was brilliant fun and that power didn't affect my mpg seriously either - I took great delight in out-dragging a couple of local RS3's due to the much better power-to-weight I had - but - despite me having a Sachs upgraded clutch I began to fear the other knock-on issues that running significantly more power can cause; and then, once 1 part fails then the next will and then the next and who knows how expensive those kind of issues would be on our BiTDi's?

Hi folks, I have had both version of BiTDi (313bhp and now 320bhp) and in my opinion the 320bhp is less efficient. I live in the same place and make similar trips, and in my 64 plate I would consistently average 40-42mpg (fair mix of village/A road/motorway and a heavy foot when necessary :-) ) but in my current 16 plate it is significantly less (and the gearbox behaves differently), averaging 34-36mpg, albeit with slightly less A road useage. It certainly isnt as efficient.

Hi Stephen, Sorry to hear of your woes, first thought would be to head to MRC who could probably give it a good once over for a diagnostic fee, but other than that I have found a few codes like: 17875 P1467 EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Short Circuit to B+ 17882 P1474 EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve electrical malfunction The above codes seem to suggest you are on the right line. Sorry cant help wit the solenoid part no or location i'm afraid... Stuart

+1 ^ Remaps are cheap, but when it causes other components to fail and the extra cost of insurance you really have to question it. My previous car was a 2016 MK7 Golf R which I got mapped and a few other bits and pieces, dyno'd at 382bhp - very very quick, but the clutch lasted less than 2 days, yes, 2 days, and I consider myself a reasonably mechanically sympathetic driver - cue an £1,100 Sachs upgrade on top of the extra £400 insurance hike. (still lots of fun though 🙂 Just expensive fun...) !!

@bf22 hi there, unfortunately this is something strangely known as 'white worm' - which is just the lacquer lifting off the diamond cut edges/face of the alloys. It is an inherent issue with diamond cut wheels and there is nothing you can do to 'undo' it unfortunately. Options are to get the wheels refurbished (about £125 a wheel) or replace them - the only thing is, with diamond cut wheels you can only refurbish them once, since each time this is done the process actually scrapes away the surface of the metal to give the shiny new face - and any more than once can limit the strength of the alloy. Cheers

@ThomasG Hi Thomas, do you mean you downloaded from an online source onto a shop bought SD card and then installed in the car? I have done the same previously a couple of times in my previous Mk7 Golf R and it was straight forward - but I have read that the new maps/SD needs to be 'activated' or similar at a Dealer which costs a significant amount - is that the case??? Thanks!

Hi all, just joined the Forum, back to being an Audi owner again 🙂 I have just set this up on my A6 and you dont need a SIM if your phone is relatively modern (and not Apple, which seems more complicated), the car can use a 'remote SIM profile' off your Android phone. I followed the instructions here: https://paulroberts69.wordpress.com/2017/11/17/configuring-the-audi-mmi-wifi-hot-spot/ and now happily have all data connection and Google Earth maps in the car, and no SIM in the dash. 🙂