AudiOwnerGroup

Wow thats quite a thorough clean, I was charged £220 for quote 'DPF Chemical clean and road test', I will have to ring him to ask if ash levels were checked. Thanks Steve.

Sorry I meant would he have tested for ASH levels too?

Thanks for the reply Steve. The last mechanic did clean out the DPF and then tested it for soot levels he said all the readings were OK, would he have tested the soot levels too? I can call him and ask him.

I am bumping this topic as 3 years down the line Stevey Y's prophetic words have come home to roost. I basically lived with the engine management light coming on and off. It wasn't persistent and only happened now and again. However, a few months ago it was getting more persistent so I took it to a fresh mechanic I hadn't used before. Told him the problem and he suggested the EGR delete, which I went ahead with. For the first couple of days it was fine, then next thing the DPF light came on (I had never seen this light until I had the EGR delete). He said the car needed a regeneration we tried to do it manually there and then but despite revving car at 2000 revs for 15 mins it wouldn't go out. Anyway I had to to to Derby a 2 hour drive on a trip. The DPF light was still on, but no other lights and the car was running fine (no limp mode). Drove all the way there, DPF light stayed on. On the way back the engine management light and the emission control lights both came on. I pulled into services stuck my OBD reader in, cleared them and I was on my way (DPF light still on). Another 1 hour later the DPF light went out also. Hooray! thought I'd cracked it, so much so went back to the mechanic and told him all lights were out, car running fine. This lasted about a week and DPF light came back again. Went back to the mechanic he suggested maybe a DPF delete, but I didn't want to go down that route. I then took it to another mechanic and explained in details everything to him, the remap, EGR delete etc.. he said he would test it, chemically clean out the DPF, service, changed all filters etc, which he did. Said he tested the dpf afterwards and there was no soot readings, he said all the results were clear, but the DPF light still hadn't gone out, he said run it for a few days see if it goes out. Which I did and it did go out, car running fine no lights again. But alas a few days later DPF light back on again. Then engine management and emissions lights. Took it back to him again he said he would ask the guy who does the remaps etc.. to look in the ECU to see if was something there. Didn't really come back with anything but he did say the EGR valve was slightly open so he blocked it off. Again, was ok for a couple of days but now all lights on again and in limp mode and can't clear the codes. So at a loss really, just went back on this forum and realised I had posted about it years ago, so thought I would resurrect it to see if anyone has any ideas. My mechanic has suggested a new EGR valve, would that then get rid of the DPF light? He did say something about the engine not getting to the right temperature to clear the DPF, but I thought he had cleaned that anyway, would it have built up again in such a short space of time? Not sure the guy who did the EGR delete knew the car had a stage 1 remap, would that have showed in the ECU? Presently car is in limp mode with all 3 lights on, the thing is, it runs well when its in normal mode, just don't know what to do next. Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the detailed reply Steve. I see what you mean about the remapping variations, I was originally booked in to the have the remap done with the rolling road and proper testing but days before it was due to go in it had an unrelated problem with the car so I rang to rebook it and I was told I would lose the £50 deposit, to say I was miffed was an understatement, so I went for the mobile option, was cheaper I admit but presumed would suit my needs. My mechanic has quoted around £800 to have another EGR fitted due to the proximity of the valve in the engine, does this sound correct?

Thanks Steve, the guy who remapped the car was a mobile set up, he just rocked up lifted the hood tinkered with his computer and it was all done in a few minutes. What are the are the specific problems I will encounter at a later date?

Audi 2.0 TDI had a stage 1 remap in August last year. Just started having coil light flashing on dash and engine light come on. Come up as p0403 EGR code error. Mechanic has said can close/remove? EGR valve. How will that affect my already stage 1 remapped car, does it have to be remapped again afterwards? Would it be worth contacting the original company who remapped it first to see what they say?

I've got a 2010 A3 2.0 TDI and it had the same fitted unit yours has, I replaced it with a Kenwood Multi Media system DMX 8020 DABS. It has apple carplay and voice control basically does everything while your driving, responds to voice commands etc..it comes with a surround which helps it fit into the space left by the original unit

Just bought second hand S-line leather interior for my audi a3 2010 8p 2.0 tdi sports back. They are heated and have electric lumbar support, has anyone had experience of fitting these? I have bought the heater climate control switch panel for heated seats which will obviously replace my current switch panel. I also understand I need a seat heating harness wiring loom which goes from the heater control to the seats. I am currently in email exchanges with kufatec.com German firm regarding purchasing this. Its probably not something I want to take on myself, do you suggest using a car interior upholstery fitter, a normal car mechanic or an auto electrician? From what I can gather on YouTube fitting the actual seats doesnt look a problem, its just the heater and wiring that looks tricky. Any advice appreciated.

That would explain it, thanks Gareth.

Thanks Gareth, I will buy the correct battery, the main point of my post really though, is why the stop and start function isn't working.

I have had 2010 A3 2.0 TDI since July and since then the stop and start function has never worked. It has a button on the controls to press to disable it, but it the function doesn't work even without the button being pressed. There is also a stop and search icon on the dash which comes up with a line through it indicating that its off. I have found out I need a new battery and the one fitted is a stop and start battery. Couple of questions, if the stop and start function isn't working can I just get a normal battery (a lot cheaper), also how do I get the the stop and start working if it is at all needed?

Thanks for reply Clifford. I have had the car since July and never really noticed it until recently, I suppose since it has got a bit colder thats why I thought it might be related. I'll mention it to the mechanic on Friday when it goes in for another problem.

I have had this problem quite recently. I have a 2010 Audi Sportsback 2.0 TDI and when the car is first started after being stood all night it seems very sluggish for the 5 mins whilst driving. There seems to be a lack of acceleration, after about 5 mins when it warms up it seems OK. Is this a common problem and anything to worry about and will it get worse over time? Any advice appreciated.

Just an update: Had the full service done and I have booked the cambelt change with my local garage to be done a week on Tuesday. Thanks for the help, Gareth.