Ollie795

Ok that’s good to know, I’ve tried adjusting the cams but have only had time to get it set to 0 deg on the inlet and then adjusted the exhaust to get the low idle fuel consumption but apparently putting the inlet to a negative value or positive sometimes can improve power or economy depending on how each engine likes to be set, I would expect my MPG to drop below 40 if I decided to do a bit of traffic light racing and sportier driving but would be nice to think it would stay above that if possible, 33MPG on the motorway still seems poor though... I still have a strange noise from the turbo, not a failure whistle or anything like that just like a rubbing/gurgling noise, accompanied by a turbo stall noise if I lift of the throttle too quick sometimes, actual boost follows demand very well when checked on vcds so not sure what’s up there if anything!

Never had any engine lights come up, I'd say there is definitely some more low down torque compared to before, not sure about the top end but might be improved, fuel economy is so far better, where I was averaging 40-42MPG on a 20 mile journey I'm now getting 45-48MPG (have adjusted the car display using VCDS and is within 0.1 MPG tank to tank, also the car is a Quattro so not gona be the best on fuel I know but I was hoping with steady driving it would be up around 50-55MPG on the motorway at 70 with cruise it sits at a terrible 33MPG so I guess something still isn't right

Thanks for the response John! I replaced my injector seals yesterday, wasn't too bad a job apart from someone previously destroying the top part of the injector wiring plug on cylinder 1, made it rather difficult to remove without damaging it more! Something I was interested in was the wear of the adjuster screw that pushes down on the injector pump, I checked them all for the 180 degree setting that they should be, this is what I found them at: Cyl 1: 320 deg Cyl 2: 320 deg Cyl 3: 340 deg Cyl 4: 300 deg The ends of the adjuster screws were well worn and one had gone through the case hardening, all were replaced and set to the correct 180 deg tolerance, I wonder if this could have resulted in a lower than optimal fuel pressure at the injection point? so having them adjusted properly might make fuelling/efficiency better? When turning the engine over to check I did notice a sucking/gurgling noise coming from the rocker cover area but was hard to pinpoint where from, I suppose the tandem pump could have a failed seal and be pulling through from the end of the cam shaft? but not sure if this noise is normal as have nothing to compare it to! I found some slight flat spots on the bottom 2 O-rings that seal the fuel supply from the fuel return sections but that was about all, I didn't realise this being the PPD injectors that the combustion chamber seal is just a very well machined mating surface, I was hoping that the bottom seal had failed but since there isn't one that wasn't the case. The car does seem to maybe have a little more low end pickup and run a bit smoother, although it's so minor i'm not sure if i'm just imagining it, will have to do a few runs to see if fuel economy is improved! and also I haven't started it other than when first cranking with no fuel in the injectors so will see next time I start it if it starts quicker, usually takes 6-10 cranks of the engine before starting to fire, does that sound more like the tandem pump? I don't get any smoke, other than when I started after doing the injectors (oil in the bores) so I know it's not burning oil! I've spent enough on this car so am very reluctant to do any more unless it's guaranteed to be the issue. shame as otherwise it's a great car!

I do wonder if anyone actually bothers on this forum... I’ve been doing some digging and it seems unlikely to be the tandem pump as usually it leaks back into the oil not the other way round. I’m suspecting the injector seals now, is it common for them to just fail with age? Car has done 127k

Hi guys, Changed my fuel filter today, from what I could tell it hadn't been changed in about 30K miles, when I poured the fuel out of the filter some of it was clear but then quite a bit of black fuel came out, almost like dye in the fuel. I know there are 2 issues that can lead to this on the 2.0 PD, the tandem pump and the injector seals. Is there any way to know what one could be the problem? To my knowledge the injectors have never been out, do the seals just fail after time? i'm not loosing any oil that I can tell (stupid black dipstick!) and car seems to run fine other than a lack of power, hence changing the filter, haven't tested it yet though but Idle seemed smoother? [img]https://i.imgur.com/1UKFvLI.jpg[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/hM4sNgh.jpg[/img]

Hi everyone, I'm not currently in need of a new turbo but when the time inevitably comes I'd like to know whats best to do, From a bit of research I've been doing, the turbo on my engine as in the title is a Borg Warner BV43 KKK turbo, from what I have found I have effectively 2/3 options, option 1 is get it reconditioned, but aside from requesting quotes I don't actually know who will rebuild this turbo if anyone and as I'm not at that stage I haven't bothered to get a quote. Option 2 is to just buy a complete new OEM turbo ~£900 seems a bit over the top especially when the housings are hopefully in good condition all that needs to be done is change the core, I'm happy and confident to DIY it so quite a saving could be made by just replacing the core/cartridge. Option 3 purchase an aftermarket turbo cartridge... This option had me interested as you can get the equivalent cartridge for this turbo from a company called Melett and at a seemingly reasonable price of ~£180 but I have a few questions... How good are they compared to the OEM units? I have read about the horror stories of cheap Chinese turbo cores that cost circa ~£50 which I wouldn't expect much from and wouldn't bother with. I have also spoken to a friend who had the same car a while back and needed the turbo replacing at 215k Miles! they went to a very reputable tuning shop and they say to only ever use the OEM housing as nothing else will ever be as good, but surely if the Melett ones are made to the same 'OEM' standard surely there can't be anything in it...can there? On a slight side note from what I have been reading a turbo core from a Borg Warner BV43a which was used in far bigger quantity (thus cheaper) on the newer Common rail 2.0TDi VAG engines can be fitted into the housing of a BV43 and due to the improved blade design can reduce low down RPM lag which would be a nice improvement, does anyone know if this is true? Might prove an interesting topic!

I've had the manifold and EGR off recently and fully cleaned it and set the adaptations for the EGR valve that cured a general lack in power, I think due to the EGR being out of position and also everything being so sooted up! Im happy there is no leak around the manifold other than a tiny one out of the swirl flap spindle but there is very little oil build up around it so i'm not concerned with that, this didn't change the strange noise in any way. I've had the turbo outlet hose off to replace the engine mount and had a good look at that, no splits, and i've checked the rest of the hoses fairly well with no obvious signs of a boost leak (have dealt with many on other cars before) I haven't been able to check the intercoolers, are they a common failure? I don't get any black smoke from the exhaust under hard acceleration admittedly it is a DPF version but theres not even a hint of smoke in the headlights of a following car with the lights on with full acceleration, which would usually indicate over fuelling due to lack of boost. Have driven the car quite a bit and theres been no change in the noise so i'm not overly worried about it just curious as to what it is, never heard it on any other turbo car i've had

Hi everyone, Ive got an Avant quattro with the 2.0TDI 170 PPD engine, when accelerating with only a little throttle I get this strange noise from the turbo, it's almost a mix of a rattle/spooling noise or like the turbine is dragging on the case of the turbo but i'm sure if this was the case I would have a lot of problems, I have no over boost issues etc just this strange noise, when I let off the throttle quickly when going up a hill (so high boost) it does the turbo flutter noise but with the same rumbly sound, which I understand is effectively excess pressure produced by the turbo that isn't needed, is it possible that my car is very slightly over boosting on light acceleration? I have had the intake pipe off and checked for play in the bearings, there is some side to side play but not excessive and a very very tiny bit of end float so I don't think it's the turbine shaking around, could it be the variable vanes sticking? car is on 123k miles

Hi hope this is ok to ask here... I have a S-line Quattro estate with the red rear dampers (sports suspension?) I have just ordered some new dampers as the old ones are leaking oil. The ones that have turned up are SACHS 313 367 which going by the information are for standard suspension? should be 313 368 for sports? Assuming the car still has Sports springs (replaced by previous owner due to cracked springs) is it ok to use a standard damper with sports springs? or will this cause an issue?

Ok so I feel like a muppet! I got the idea that the yellow circle symbol with 3 dots either side was to do with low oil pressure given that when you press the check button on the dash it shows this symbol at the top of the display and below it the low oil pressure alarm, turns out its actually just the front brake pad sensor alarm! panic over! 😅

Hi everyone, first post on here. Had the car a couple of weeks, It's a 2.0tdi PD 170bhp engine, BRD engine code. My issue is sometimes....only twice so far, when starting the engine I get the low oil pressure warning and beep come up, I turn the engine off and restart it and it doesn't come back... I am well aware of the oil pump drive issues on this car, It's done 122k and I have no evidence to say that the oil pump has been looked at. Does this sound like the engine is warning me the oil pump drive is on its last legs? I have seen a few mentions of oil pressure sensor faults but not very common? If I do need to replace the balance shaft is the KMB part the best one to get? and is it worth changing the oil pump at the same time? or does this rarely have issues? and finally does anyone know what I should expect to pay for a garage to change the balance shaft? thanks in advance!