Ianswebb

Does anyone know how to force the cooling fans using OBDELEVEN Pro? I'm fairly sure mine are not working. I've been going into Basic Settings, Channel 130, then pressing and holding the green tick. The status then changes from 'off' to 'on'. Is this where the cooling fans should burst in to life, or have I gone about this all wrong? I've tried the output test on channel 130 too, but this unavailable and I'm not even sure if it relates to channel 130 from the basic settings. Adaptation on channel 130 is also unavailable. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Ian

Tidy! 🤙

Just got this switch/sensor on order myself. I too was quoted £79.60 all in, so am glad that the prices seem to be consistent. Only draw back is that they are currently on back order so I'll have to wait for somewhere in the region of 7-10 days for it to come over from Germany. I did stumble across a youtube video where the guy removed the headlight with the aid of some silicone grease, to avoid having to drop the bumper.. A tactic I'll be having a little go at! Ian

Does the service history make any mention of the gearbox oil being changed? My initial thought was the clutch release/thrust bearing, but would expect to hear that a majority of the time the clutch is dropped. Ian

Thanks Steve.. Time to start making some phone calls to see how rammo everyone is for recharges! and more interestingly, I'm about to embark on my first R1234YF rodeo. Ian

Does anyone know, off hand what A/C refrigerant is used on the B7? I'm sure I read somewhere that it wasn't R134a, but I can't find that information again anywhere. Can't throw my head under the bonnet either as the car isn't with me and won' be until Wednesday. Thanks in advance, Ian

As it happens, I've just found a bottle in the garage! I'll throw that in when i've changed the thermostat. If for no other reason than to get rid of it! Ian

I've had the exact same symptoms for a good few months now, so I'll be following in similar footsteps. The Redex debate is an interesting one. Would a combination of correct operating temperatures and long run not be better? Ian

Haven't got a dodgy earth cable have you? To me, the overall issue being worse after replacing the battery would suggest a connection issue. Ian

May well have found my issue.. Way dodgy connection on fuse 31! Specifically the right connector. Not too sure how easy that is going to be to replace.. I'm going to hazard a guess and say it's gonna be a ball ache 😠. None the less for that, I've wedged the fuse in for now so there is good contact, while I decide how best to tackle it. Ian

It wouldn't be frozen shut by any chance, would it? Ian

My choice was absolutely based on price! for a couple of reasons. The first of which was because I was in dire need of oil due to a poorly fitted oil filter seal, it dumped a litre in a week with very little mileage! Service book stated an oil change just before I bought it, done by the garage that's owned by the used car dealer.. The sceptical side of me thinks that it may have been done deliberately so I return the vehicle under the three month AA/RAC warranty. With the dealer knowing full well that seals and gaskets aren't covered and so send me the bill! Though previous experience was also a massive part and the premise that you can't undo any damage already done. However, should I ever be a first owner, I'd defo go for the premium oils. Filters on the other hand, Mann or Bosch all the way. Ian

Got a bit of an update.. First off TPS don't sell to regular members of the public! I'm sure I walked in to one of their branches years ago and bought some stuff, but perhaps I didn't. Oh well!.. Got a new brake light switch from the dealer, and was pleasantly surprised that it only cost £17. Unfortunately, it didn't work. I have however unearthed a fault code from the 'Instruments' module... 01315 - Transmission Control Module 004 - No signal/Communication The control module part number is 8E0 920 982 N Would anyone happen to know where this bad boys is located? I'd like to make sure all the connections are clean from there back to the TCM so I can start ruling everything out, in a vain attempt to avoid sliding down the slippery slope that is TCM repair/replacement (dealer quoted £1327inc vat(part only) and said that it would need coding aswell 🤮). Ian

Hi Peter, I'm using Triple QX Fully Synthetic 0w-30 from EuroCarParts. I don't know how it compares with the leading brands, but I've been using it for years in a variety of cars and I'm not aware that it's done me wrong. I have a 2.0TFSI, so don't know of this will be compatible with yours. Ian

Hi Gareth, All puns gratefully received. Laugh of you cry, right!?.. and thanks for mucking in! I'll give TPS a shout tomorrow. The brake switch I've just taken out is a genuine part although I'm going to hazard a guess and say its not a factory original. It doesn't seem dusty enough to me, although there some slight rubbing marks on top, so who knows 🤔. None the less for that I think I'll go for the same again. Regarding the Park Switch.. is that the same as a neutral safety switch? (Apologies if that is a really daft question, I'm new to the world of automatic gearboxes). To date, I haven't had any key release issues. Ian

Hello everyone, I have an issue I hope you can help with.. As the title states I have an intermittent starting issue with my 2007 A4 CVT. Seemingly, without rhyme or reason when turning the key, all the dash lights come on as expected but when I go one step further and try to start the car there is nothing, no dimming of lights, no starter solenoid clicking, nothing! Yet I'll try another time and it will start bang on cue. The battery is good and the grounds are good. I'm getting voltage to the starter motor, although I am yet to test the switch wire. I don't have any fault codes as yet, namely because i'm only running VCDS lite 😬 and can't access all the modules. There is one thing I've noticed when it is playing up.. When all the dash lights are on, the 'Automatic Selector Lever Lock' (between P and R) light does not come on and the selector can be moved without pressing the brake pedal, ordinarily light would be on and pressing the brake pedal releases the lock. This points me in the direction of the brake light switch, although the brake lights appear to work fine. Anyone got any advances on this theory? Ian

Well that's easy enough to follow! 🤝 Ian