arron1995

talking about springs, thought id have another look, i can rotate the spring side to side on the drivers side and it clangs, passenger side one moves a little but nowhere near as bad, ive uploaded it here

There is 100% a noise from that area, wether it’s the ball joint or from the rack im not sure as the noise occurs when I turn it side to side, I can’t hear any noise when I turn the steering wheel or atleast not the same metal on metal noise, need to ring my mechanic today and see when he can squeeze me in.

That tie rod is the video is the passenger side too which when I’m driving the noise sounds like it’s coming from the drivers side. but we will have to see when I take it to the mechanic and go from there, thanks for the help bud. fingers crossed it’s not the rack.

here is the video on youtube mate

im not sure if you watched the video i posted, the noise in the video sounds like its coming from the inner tie rod, but unsure if thats the noise im hearing when i go over bumps, i need to get my wheel locking nut sorted then go from there. edit- no problem bud, i thought it would be viewable without downloading, il upload it to youtube for you.

Spot on pal, il give them a try

Somehow I have lost my wheel locking nut which isn’t good news, I’ve told him I’m going to sort that first then be in touch with him, I’ve tried to have a look myself but only have axle stands it’s quite hard, nothing seemed out of the ordinary but Il have to let him take a look.

Springs, and wheel nuts are fine from what I can see, wheels are torqued to 120nm. I’m not sure how to check for rack play, I need to take it to my mechanic but he’s super busy and I’m not one for trusting too many people, so like to stick to who I know. I have a video of the noise I mentioned, il attach the video and if you could give me some feedback that would be helpful, cheers. IMG_1064.MOV

so recently i have noticed that when i hit a bump in the road, I hear what sounds to me like two bits of metal hitting each other. I have replaced the drop links and they did have more play than they should have but it hasn't fixed the issue. when i had the car up in the air, i grabbed a hold of the tie rod ends and i could turn them enough that they would make a clang, surely this is not normal? does anyone have any suggestions, thanks.

Il leave it a little longer and if it gets to the point it’s juddering constantly that’s when il do clutch and flywheel

I only use shell as the one time I used supermarket fuel my car would knock its head off, doesn’t matter if hot or cold mate.

when i accelerate from a standstill, and it seems to be a lot worse going uphill, when i accelerate and lift the clutch the car judders quite a lot, it doesnt seem to be affected by how much throttle i give or how fast i bring the clutch up, is this likely the clutch or flywheel. The clutch was changed by previous owner at 93k (or so he says), car is now on 160k. thanks.

i have a stage 2 cr170 mapped by narco tuning, upon logging it, from 2300rpm-4300ish rpm the requested boost pressure is 1.75 bar, it sometimes overboosts slightly at the start of a run to 1.8 bar, from 4300 on its at 1.65 bar, does anyone know if these are safe boost pressures because if theyre not, i will ask for it lowering, i have attached a log via datazap https://datazap.me/u/arronleeds/log-1634754127?log=0&data=1-3-4&zoom=2041-2298

ive slept many times since then

Ended up with a Bosch mate, £120 from batterymegastore, do you know the process to code the battery? Thanks.

I have a new battery guys but will it need coding In as I heard some stop/start systems need the battery coded.

recently when i had my thermostat replaced I had my battery checked and the machine printed a ticket out that said state of health "bad and replace" "state of health- 54%" now with the increasingly colder weather, today my car really struggled to crank on the first startup, even after leaving it for a couple mins to warm the plugs. i then left the car for a few hours and when i started it up again, it started easier but my idle was very low and it felt like the car was going to stall, here is a video of the first start this morning, could the poor battery health be the cause as my glow plugs were all replaced not even 8k miles ago. video-1638100521.mp4

Spot on steve, my mate is a coder and has vcds,Odis etc

I have had a new stat fit and the coolant temp issue is fixed, but I asked my mechanic to check my battery as I believe it’s the original one and my car was registered in 2012, turns out the battery health is only 54% and the machine told me to replace it, my stop/start stopped working recently and this is why I had my battery checked too.

all sorted guys, found out that my battery health is 54% though so thats going to cost me even more money, anyone know where i can get the stop/start battery cheap as possible.

Car had done 150k miles mate so I thought while the belt was off I may aswell put a new water pump on just incase it did fail later down the line, so I could save on labour costs :).

Do you not get any other symptoms with a stuck open stat steve? I’ve seen people mention poor mpg etc but mine has been spot on

I had my water pump done as I was having my timing belt done mate, i didn’t get my stat done as I forgot about it at that time, my mechanic didn’t know about the issue 🙂

Since I’ve had my car I have noticed that the coolant temp takes ages to get to 90, and when I say ages I mean it can take 30+ miles, once It’s up to temp it will then fluctuate between 90-75 ish, I have noticed the temp will fluctuate faster if I have the heating on and the heater temp will fluctuate with it, I have had the water pump changed but not the thermostat, could this be the issue? Thanks

the egr is blanked at turbo and block side mate and even if it did open which it shouldnt as its mapped out, it wont get into the intake manifold. i have noticed my boost at idle is a little higher than it was before the dpf delete etc, used to be 980hPa and now its 1020hPa which is technically just above vacuum. all i know is, since having all the work done, the flutter has appeared, my maf readings have changed as before the dpf/egr removal, my actual vs requested were the same, now my requested maf is 230 g/s and my actual is around 470 g/s at idle, im assuming because there is no exhaust gasses going back into the intake any longer that the maf will read higher due to more clean air. i still need to figure out why my car makes a weird sort of rustling noise when i accelerate, it seems to be getting louder. its like when you swish a coin around in a jar. on another note i logged my boost yesterday and i think it needs toning down, its hitting 1.8 bar at times, im pretty sure the garret in these cannot handle that for very long.