arron1995

did some research steve and found this "If the throttle valve is left operational w/ the EGR pipe blocked, there will be an intake vacuum as the valve cycles because the vacuum is not bled off by the exhaust entering the intake" this probably explains the flutter, it will be vacuum.

the guys who did it, il be honest are well known, but there replies are not the best, they tuned my car a week ago and still havent sent me my dyno printout, the reply i got when i sent them the video was "most turbo cars make the flutter" which i know isnt true.

do you think its likely to cause turbo failure? how would i go about fixing it.

the flutter coming from the turbo when i turn the car off, im 100% positive has only been happening since the car had the dpf gutted and egr blanked and mapped out, its 100% coming from the engine and back into the turbo, i removed the intercooler pipe from the left side, the one that attaches to the charge pipe that goes into the asv and when i turned the car off, after a couple seconds a big blast of air hit my hand, as long as it doesnt damage the turbo il leave it alone, but my track record of failed turbos isnt the best.

egr valve is blanked mate, blanked at the exhaust manifold and the at the block, i had it blanked after it failed and its been mapped out along with dpf delete.

what confuses me though steve is that i never got turbo flutter on my petrol turbo, i assume this is because it had a diverter? i know turbos take a while to spin down after shut off but why is it fluttering like its chopping the air? im sure its only started doing it recently, its 100% flutter as like i say i got a pop noise and the air shoots through the intake hose and out of the airbox. here is a video of the noise. video-1634578369.mp4

so after my recent post and noticing my turbo fluttering when i turn the car off, i decided to try some things out, i detached the hose from the intercooler to the charge pipe and the turbo no longer fluttered, so this got me realising, that when i turn the car off and the asv shuts, its sending air back through the charge pipe and into the turbo, surely this isnt healthy? when i turn the car off with everything attached, a puff of air comes into the intake from the turbo, if i remove the intercooler hose it goes away, is something wrong here?

after watching some videos it seems the pop noise is normal, but the fluttering i have never heard it before and ive had the car since april and done around 15k miles, i never thought diesel turbos could flutter as they have no throttle body. this test was done with nothing connected to the compressor housing to see if it was due to the intake or breather and it was still present, i can only assume the air that comes back through is the air between the anti shudder valve and compressor itself so it must be air thats in the charge pipe.

today with the bonnet open when i switched the engine off i noticed a fluttering accompanied with a pop of air from the turbo, i took the inlet off and had someone turn the car off and sure enough when i put my hand infront of the compressor, it fluttered and then made a pop noise and shot air at my hand, im a bit confused as surely it should be sucking air not blowing it? is this normal, il attach a video, its a bit loud but you can hear it. 4 seconds in. video-1634327127.mp4

so upon driving home, my car went into limp mode with the coil light flashing, soon after the eml came on, i said to myself i bet its the egr, and behold, "egr valve (n18) p0403 (237) malfunction", i need my car for work and my mechanic cant fit me in until the end of next week, am i going to be driving it around even in limp or will it ruin the dpf a lot sooner? i would much rather just do an egr delete rather than have to remove both egr and dpf as i have been qouted £650-£750 for egr delete/dpf delete and a map, which id rather not have to fork out for, unless someone knows a good branded egr that wont set me back silly amounts

Today I noticed that the noise doesn’t occur in 1-2nd gear, only 3rd and onwards and only while accelerating, I’m wondering if it is the injectors but at the same time the deviations are fine during idle.

so yesterday after work i started the car up, started to accelerate and all of a sudden this sort of fast clattering noise occured, i pulled over straight away and opened the engine bay and started to rev the car, the noise could not be demonstrated. As i set off again and put my foot down the noise came back, the noise gets better as the engine warms up, ive checked for fault codes and nothing came up, ive checked injector deviation and they all look fine, the only thing thats happened since the noise has started is ive put in asda fuel (usually use shell) ive attached a video, its best heard around 15 seconds, has anyone got any ideas as im stumped? also noticed at the back of the engine it smells of either fuel or exhaust gasses, but cant see any smoke. video-1632832497.mp4

cr170 is just an abbreviation for the common rail 170bhp (125kW) engine, it is stage 1 but i lost the dyno graph, after looking at some other dyno graphs it seems every tuner starts the run at 1800rpm so makes sense.

my stage 1 cr170 acts weird when in 5th and 6th, if the revs are lower than 1400rpm and i put my foot down the car judders/vibrates quite bad, it only seems to do it in these 2 gears, if im going uphill i have to drop it down into 4th for it to pick up properly, is it just because the rpms are too low?

thats absolutely crazy, ive had the car now for just about 10,000 miles and its had 2 oil changes in that time, a new air filter, cabin filter, fuel filter and its about to have its second timing belt/water pump service and 4 new glow plugs, im hoping to get to 200,000 miles. when i first did an oil chnage i was shocked to how dirty diesel engine oil gets, there was loads of tiny bits of carbon in, i pooped myself at first thinking it was metal.

thanks steve, I have a lot to learn about diesels and how they work, its not something ive been worried about, more so curious, especially coming from a petrol.

as the title suggests, is this normal? the cars on just shy of 150,000 miles and i can only assume the dpf is probably close to being full, is it normal for a big plume of smoke to come out on the initial acceleration and then die down until the regen is complete? doesnt smoke apart from during the regen process.

I checked my injector deviation in may when the engine was hot, my deviations were as followed cyl 1- 0.04 cyl 2- 0.63 cyl 3- -0.30 cyl 4- -0.37 checked today on cold start and they’re the following cyl 1- 1.23 cyl 2- 0.66 cyl 3- -0.68 cyl 4- -1.21 are these values ok? Seems odd they’re so different within that time period, does cold vs hot affect them.

That’s the exact noise I’m talking about mate, like a tinkling/chatter, hopefully nothing serious, on another hand do any of you guys know what sort of boost levels the cr170 turbo is good for, it’s the Garrett one.

whilst i accelerate and only when i accelerate, doesnt do it in neutral etc, i get this sort of hiss/swirling noise, if i have both windows down i can hear it louder, say for example i change to 3rd gear and accelerate, i hear it, if i let off and then press the throttle again it starts again, i have another video, hopefully you can hear it better, i come on and off the throttle. if you cant hear it you will be best off turning volume up, it can deffo be heard (best heard at very start from 23 seconds on, where i keep blipping throttle. whats weird is i cant hear it if i try replicate it in my underground carpark. video-1626376560.mp4

when i accelerate i get a strange sort of metallic/rustling noise, its quite hard to describe, it only does it when i accelerate, if i put the car into neutral when im driving and rev the engine, the noise doesn't occur, its not the best of videos so you will need to up the volume, but best heard at 3-5 seconds and 18 seconds and onwards (ignore the noise in the middle of the video, thats my loud discs when i brake), what could it be, ive had the car for about 5000 miles and been the same throughout. video-1625691583.mp4

so i bought some forte topend treatment, and it doesnt have any instructions on use, now i know you add it to your oil but... are you meant to remove 400ml of oil to pour 400ml of the forte in, or do you simply add it without removing any.

i will do just that, cheers.

thanks gareth, i was hoping to get oem pads in all fairness but didnt know if i could source them without a tps account etc, i will speak to some local audi dealers and see what they can do.

can anyone recommend a brand for discs and pads, the cars nothing special but id like to stay away from eurocarpart knock offs. tia.