JMKC82

Hi Phil, Choosing the correct replacement turbo is difficult. If you can get the 3L turbo fitted (inlet and exhaust port fittings i'm guessing will be different) as well as overall size, i'd think you'd have to constantly rev hard to generated boost. Your 2L engine might not produce enough exhaust gas, and then you'll get huge turbo lag as you change gears. Unless you are racing it and maxing out on revs all the time. I might be talking bull so feel free to correct me. I looked into changing turbo's over a decade over, so things might have changed. I looked at variable vane / VNT / VGT, but i'm not sure what a hybrid turbo is. definitely a variable 'type' turbo would be my choice, as it would keep my car drivable day to day. So i didn't change my turbo decades ago due to the costs, but i did change the FMIC to a performance one, and looking online now, they are still quite reasonable in price with very little or no modifications. Thanks, Joe

Hi Neil, I assume you haven't got the timer set on either the car or the charger itself? Thanks, Joe

another name for stickers. You see them on vans, cars, lorries that advertise for companies. Not forgetting TAXI's. Also, sports cars, F1 cars, etc. And push bikes / motorbikes, etc. So, you can have any design, any colour, for any car you want. If you decide to do something with your car, post some pictures when you are finished.

Hi Joe, that would just be DECALS. And you can custom them to what you want with design and colours, etc. Thanks, also Joe

Hi Rob, We'll always ask why you want to upgrade to drilled and slots. Depends on your driving style and car, etc. So i have a Q5 PHEV and with the batteries it is a heavy car. So i decided to go for Brembo drilled and slots as i like a better braking performance. But i will tell you I eat through brake pads quickly, i've been told it is because of the slots 'cutting' or 'slicing' through the brake pad. If i could turn back time and definitely 100% next time, i'd probably go for drilled only with the same brand pads, or standard discs with EBC pads. I've used EBC pads on my previous golf, A3, and my last A4, and they were awesome on their own - RED or YELLOW stuff! Drilled and slots discs do look good though 😄 Thanks, Joe

Hi Paul, 2 litres in 3 weeks is a lot of coolant, and what do you mean burnt up? In the cylinders? That would not be possible (in my opinion). My trouble shooting suggestion (with extra care of course), is to top up the coolant when the engine is cold. Get the engine up to temperature (90degrees) with the bonnet open. Because the coolant system is under pressure and at temperature, you should be able to see 'leaks' or 'steam'. You may want a second person to rev the engine as the water pump If you have an undertray, possibly remove that, as that could be catching the coolant? Again, be careful. Thanks, Joe

As with Steve and Gareth, i am abit concerned for you Matt. First of all, whatever you do, do it safely. Couple of things to add. - If you've drained the gearbox oil, oops. But at least you'll change the oil for that now. - Best to have the car level, as you won't drain all the oil and particulates. Basically you'll mix new oil with old oil. A little bit waste of time and money. - Warm the engine (have it running for a short while), to warm the engine oil, and (I believe) mixes/suspends all the particles together. So alot easier to drain the oil, and you get alot more of the stuff (particulates) out. Be careful not to burn yourself, so i normally get it up to about 50-60C. Thanks, Joe

Hi Chaz, Are picking up signal 'noise' coming through the stereo. Doesn't have to be a petrol engine with spark plugs. Do you still get the noise when you turn off the stereo (rather than reduce the volume)? The stereo amplifier 'powers' the speakers, so you need to turn off the stereo. You can purchase cable noise suppressors, but i've never used them myself. Thanks, Joe

good to hear you are moving forward with this. Not the best design.

Hi, it should be a right hand thread, so looking down onto the oil filter cover, anti clockwise to remove, clockwise to tighten. So that arrow is correct to tighten. Forgot to mention, I think you definitely need to move the reservoir, as you won't be able to remove the oil filter itself without making a mess. And also to drop in the oil filter as well. How are you getting on? Thanks, Joe

Hi, Is that picture with the reservoir moved over? That looks like enough space. I'm wondering if you are using the oil filter tool? Example Thanks, Joe

Hi Matt, Can you provide a picture? From my previous 2017 A4 2.0 TDI saloon (not quattro, so i don't know if that makes any difference). Yes it was a pain to remove the oil filter. I had to unscrew the coolant reservoir and gently nudge that over to give me space. Thankfully no spillages. Not sure why you would have coolant coming from the pipes? I don't know if that is the correct way, but it was the only way i could see it being done. Thanks, Joe

Hi David, Personally, i think the My Audi app is okay. It tells me info about my car. Audi connect is different, and i don't think it is worth it. I don't need to know the weather/news, social media updates, etc, as i can see it on my phone for FREE. I don't think Audi connect includes map updates either (could be wrong). And again, if you have your phone connected using Android Auto, or Apple Carplay, you have FREE maps (google maps, waze, Apple maps, etc). But i have to say, one thing i miss from Audi connect is 'traffic' updates on the Audi maps/MMI, if i don't have Android Auto connected. Thanks, Joe

Hi George, For my Q5 tfsi e, i think the electric motor gearbox has 3 gears (there is no display for this, i can only tell when the rev's/power bar drops). When changing gear, it is very similar to a DSG 'box, but with a slightly longer hesitation between gear UP shifts. Hardly noticeable, and definitely not clunky changes. Quite seamless. Again, for my Q5, it does not drive like a full electric car. If you put the car in EV mode (full electric), and push the throttle to 'over' 50% motor power usage when accelerating, the ICE kicks in. With an electric car, it doesn't have an ICE, so you have full electric motor to use. I haven't found a way to use more than 50% motor power before the ICE kicks in. Thanks, Joe

Hi Martin, I got a slightly lower price at £220 from an independent garage for the spark plugs. And in the end i decided to do this myself (£50 for plugs and 1.5 hours of my time which i could have done it in 30 minutes TBH). Which some say i am crazy to do whilst my car is still under warranty, but i'd like to think i'd take more care (I am a little OCD), and hey, it's been going fine for the last 2k miles. Some not so great pictures if you wanted to do yourself. I agree with Gareth, do you air filter as well. You can do this for £10 for the filter and 30 minutes of your time. Again, i've done this myself twice already. Crazy that Audi recommend for me to change the air filter every 60k miles. Thanks, Joe

Hi Scott, So you have changed / overhauled all the braking system on all 4 corners? Is it possible, to flush or push lots of brake fluid down the hard lines (especially that particular caliper), from the reservoir in case of any blockages? Or rod the lines? I was thinking if there is a blockage in the line, the hydraulic pressure is not going to relieve itself after you release the footbrake. Thanks, Joe

Hi Alex, Just to confirm you checked all fuses, and all were okay? None were blown? You just replaced all the fuses (which were okay and not blown) with new fuses? Thanks, Joe

correction, increase predicted range. Your battery capacity doesn't change. Sorry, i'm just being pedantic 🙂 I did part of the installation myself so it was a little cheaper, and in total i think it cost about £800 to wire / rewire, and put in a PodPoint Solo 3. Well worth it, and mine is tethered!! I have been told it is not great on the 'home' electrics if you constantly use the 3 pin plug. It 'stresses' the internal wiring, as they are designed for intermittent use. Basically the wiring heats up and degrades. Because you are putting a lot of load (13amps) continuously for 4-6 hours per day, every day...... Of course if you use the kitchen 'oven' socket, which is designed for 32A, that will help. Anyway, my 11.4KWh useable battery capacity is charged up in less than 2 hours overnight, every night. I'm on Intelligent Octopus now, at 7.5p/KWh, it's great! BTW, some people have said it is a faff charging everyday, but it is just like charging your phone everyday. The tethered cord is always there, takes less than 30 seconds to plug in, and that's it. Enjoy your car!

Hi, I don't think that range is linked to charging speed or type. I've used both 3-pin (in the early days), and 7KW home charger, and always get the same mileage, give or take weather and driving conditions. Note that besides from weather and temperature, the speed at which you drive will affect the range. High speed 70mph on motorway will sap the power, but 50-60mph gives better range. I've found the 'range' is determined by the average previous drives. So if you've done lots of 30-40mph drives, it will increase your range, and vice versa. I hope you get more than 28 real world miles (hopefully up into the mid 30's at least), as i'm currently getting 20-22miles in this weather, driving mostly 70mph in my heavy Q5. Thanks, Joe

Hi, I'm no audio buff, but bluetooth from phone to MMI, is that not high quality? Thanks, Joe

it is because the number of cameras you need. I remember clearly at least 2 wing mirror camera, 1 front camera, and 1 rear camera, plus all the wiring looms, etc. It is easy if they do it during a NEW car build, but when it comes to retrofitting, when they have to strip everything down, it is just alot of time. It is really annoying, as i would still like to have the 360 camera.

Hi, Are you overthinking things, or unfortunately just unlucky on this occassion? If it has happened multiple times or going to happening multiple times, then go ahead and fit a radiator guard. I have one on my motorbike because it is fully exposed, but it is a standard item on motorbikes. I would just chalk this down as an unfortunate incident than ruining a lovely NEW car, that could void the warranty with any aftermarket products. Sorry, just my thought. Joe

100% agree unfortunately. My last last A4 had chrome window trims, and the chemicals at the cleaners caused corrosion. Joe

Hi, in the end i decided not to go ahead. Everyone was charging about £3,000 for the 360 camera. Thanks, Joe

just switch off ignition and test voltage immediately. You don't have to wait. You want (well i do), want the dash cam to switch on when you start the ignition, and switch off when you switch off the ignition. "which ring lug would you recommend? & how do I connect it to the black earth cable supplied in the nextbase kit?" The ring lug to use should suit the EARTH screw/bolt size, so i can't recommend this. They are just standard ring lugs in all sorts of sizes. You CRIMP the black earth wire where i have arrowed above. Joe