JMKC82

Hi, Is it just the drivers side? Had something similar many many years ago, when it was just one small section of the windscreen that wasn't demisting properly. I put the fan on full blast, and aiming towards the windscreen, closed off all the other vents. I heard something rattling. Semi stripped the dash area and found loads of sweet wrappers blocking the outlet. AHHHH, the missus. Just a thought.

Hi Mark, It could be just one of those things you are experiencing, with a low key battery? But just to rule out 1 thing cheaply by changing the key battery, for less than £5??

Hi Mark, Assuming you've changed the battery on the key. Happened to me. When i grabbed the second key, it also didn't work, but the second key was sat in the cupboard for about 3 years. Changed the battery, and all good. When you change the battery (use a good brand), you might need to put the key back on the centre consol. Secondly, always good to know the alarm is working properly 😉 . Better to know it works, than when you need it and it doesn't work 😛 Joe

Where in lincs are you? I'm not sure if i can mention names, but there is a Audi VW specialist in Lincoln. I personally highly rate them. Good service, great price, uses OEM parts (can use other branded parts if you ask). As mentioned by the guys above, really surprised you haven't done the cam belt. Also, the DSG service, have you had it done? Not sure the recommended service timings, but i get my DSG/s-tronic service at the intervals. Also, also, if it is an Allroad, i'm guessing it is Quattro? sorry, i don't know this model well. Quattro service? Does it need one? Treat your car, and do it all. Will give you another 100k.

Hi Lee, Do you mean that the gearbox is disengaged and the car coasts? If memory serves, in efficiency mode it happens more often. Another way maybe is to look into the MMI (something like this) > car > vehicle settings or driver assist > and turn off any active efficiency items like efficiency assist. Try different drive select modes? For example, you can put it into dynamic or sport mode, where the gear will be 'S' as default, but then you can easily change that to 'D' Thanks,

Hi, Is it part of a rivet? Not sure what is riveted under the engine cover. hmmm,

i have to say, you seem to drive it sensibly, and if it is serviced regularly, that car will last 'forever'. I don't know why you would be selling?? For me, 90k to 100k miles, is quite low mileage. Or is there another reason for looking to sell?

80mpg?? I can't believe that, even driving on a motorway. You must be doing about 55-60mph. I had 2017 A4 B9, 150 ultra s-tronic, but would probably get about 55mpg on a steady run on the motorway. Never could i reach over 60-65mpg. If you have the car serviced regularly, why are you selling with less than 100k on the clock? I sold mine with 180k miles on the clock and it was still running so sweet. I agree, really good car. But TBH, all the VW and Audi cars i've owned have been good.

Hi Stuart, Welcome to the forums. I had a similar issue with the rear seat release (from the boot), on my Q5. Luckily i had it fixed under warranty. They said the cable had unhooked from the release handle because the cable had 'stretched'. I laughed and said it is less than 2 years old and i rarely use the release. Sorry, i don't know how to fix it, but hopefully it is a quick fix for you. Joe

Hi Allen, Maybe post some pictures of the side wall so we can see? Joe

I was about to ask the same question. If your car is 2017, i wouldn't expect the tyres (assuming from new) the side walls to crack. Especially premium Michelin's.

Hi Allen, On my old A4 B9 2.0 tdi (non quattro), i always try to get Continental Sport or Premium Contact tyres. I did try Goodyear 'something' efficiency tyres, and they were okay too. I know it is tough on the purse these days, but i would always recommend buying tyres at the top of you budget range and don't skimp. I honestly believe you pay for what you get in tyres, and the tyres will save you when you need them to (slippery road, low traction, hard braking, etc). Joe

Hi, Please correct me if i am wrong and stupid. Are people using suction (via the dip stick pipe) nowadays? I've been reading on this recently, and seems like a few garages are doing this on 'newer' cars (I guess the engine is designed differently re sump...??). https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shoze-Extractor-Transfer-Motorbikes-Engines/dp/B08LNJVHFC/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=oil+suction+pump&qid=1658821951&sprefix=oil+suc%2Caps%2C56&sr=8-7 Just a thought, so you don't have to remove the undertray. Joe

Hi Dean, Can you give details of the alloys and tyres? And pictures? I'm just interested. Do you get the noise when going straight? Joe

Hi TooTired, Can i ask how much you've got quoted for bigger brake kits? I looked into it for my Q5 hybrid (which is really heavy), and looking for better braking performance. It was very expensive. In the end i went for EBC YellowStuff pads all round, and braided hoses. Changing the hoses, i changed the brake fluid to dot 5.1 (not sure if that will make alot of difference). I can tell you the braking performance is much better and consistent. And a lot cheaper than bigger brakes. Next for me is drilled and/or grooved discs all round. Should have done it with the other stuff to be honest. Just a thought. Joe

Hi All, I'm pretty sure the tracking on my Q5 Quattro needs doing. The local Audi approved (not Audi dealership) has quoted £87 to do it. Would you trust a local 'tyre' place to do it, if it was less than £50? eg, Kwik-Fit, National Tyre Autocentre, Halfords Autocentre, F1 Autocentre. Thanks, Joe

Hi Saviola, I used to do this with my diesel and petrol cars, as i heard it just let's everything 'cool', especially the turbo. But now i have a hybrid, it is so strange and worries me, because i can drive on the motorway for hours with a hot engine, and then hit traffic, and the petrol engine switches off immediately, and i would be running on the electric motor in traffic. So no 'cooling' / idle time. With these modern cars, i think they would have thought about this. Well i hope so, so anyway, I don't think you have anything to worry about, as you are doing what i would normally be doing. Sorry to semi hijack your thread. Joe

Hi, just to clarify, the actual jacking point on the chassis looks fine. Whoever tried to jack it up, put the jack in the wrong place.

Just to let you know, depending on the settings, i think set by default. Even if the car is locked, the boot release on the key still opens the boot. Of course let us know if this is definitely not key. Others on this forum might have other ideas.

Hi Allen, Just wondered if you are accidentally pressing onto the boot release on the key??

jump / charging points under the bonnet. Thanks,

Hi Phil, Sorry if this is stupid, key worked in your door? But not in the boot, strange. WD-40 in the lock? Or is the mechanism seized? Get a charger and charge the battery? Then use the remote? Ripping out the seats sounds a bit extreme. Why do you need to get into the boot? Thanks, Joe

Hi Mark, not charging my car at the minute, but it is giving me my usual data. And can still unlock and lock my car from the app, so looks like it is working ok. from your other post "Are you experiencing loss of data via MyAudi App?" - no, seems to be working Restart your phone???

A good service history?? How about who the previous owners were, and how they drove the cars? Really difficult to give advice on used cars, and the future life of the car without all the details.

Sorry if i missed it, but was this Audi Nottingham?