JMKC82

just to add, you said it won't start. So it is turning over okay?

Hi David, More details of the car? Petrol / Diesel, auto/manual, FSH, etc. Have you had the car long? You said stalls whilst driving, does it depend on speed or gear? Do you mean stalls from a standstill? More info here. Does it cough or properly stall? Thanks,

Agree with Steve. Sorry if i'm teaching to such eggs. Try putting the key in fully without turning, wait 5 seconds. Turn the key once to switch on ignition (NOT start the engine), waiting for all the lights to go out, and wait another 5 seconds. During this time, the key is recognised. Hopefully the engine will start now first time. Just gives a few extra seconds for the key to be recognised.

i'm glad it's sorted, but confused how cleaning the actuator sorted the boot not opening with the key? 😄

Hi, Just wondered mileage and service history of the car? I agree with Steve, but could be a multitude of items.

as Kev has brought this back to life, i just wanted to add my tupence. agree with Gareth that keeping the car sounds like false economy. The car is just going to depreciate unless it becomes a classic. If you are keeping it, check the battery quality and it is holding charge (I'd disconnect it for a day and check the voltage drop). Change if needed. I use £15 (bought ages ago) 5w solar charger with long wires, and connect directly to my MOTORBIKE battery. Absolutely fine during the winter months with zero usage. This should in theory be okay for your car.

welcome to the forum James, Have you posted your query already?

Besides from that, i hope you are enjoying your A3.

I think it was an option as part of the hill start assist? Or maybe that is for auto's only? I don't understand your frustration, as you'd have to pull the handbrake lever anyway. Now it is a tiny switch you flick 🙂.

Hi All, My engine 2.0 TFSI has supposedly got an oil quality monitor which adjusts the oil change mileage and time depending on the oil quality. Does anyone know if this is actually a gimmick? The reason i ask is because my car is a PHEV, and currently i used about 60/40 petrol and electric. But my oil change mileage has not changed, so even though i'm doing 6,000 on petrol, i still have to change the oil after 10,000 miles overall car running. I used to have an 2017 A4 2.0 tdi (loved it), and it also supposedly had an oil quality monitor, but still i had an oil change according to the car around 20k without the mileage changing. Maybe it changed by 100 miles or so without me noticing?? Any thoughts/comments? Thanks, Joe

80 miles daily?? I would say Diesel is a no brainer. My own opinion.

unless i have missed it. Price?

Hi, is it me, or is this tyre flat? Mileage? Spec's? Gearbox? Interior condition, type? Assume no issues with the soft top?

Niet 😄

I think it is tiptronic. The s-tronic has a maximum torque limit and as this is a 3.0 tdi, i expect it is the tiptronic.

Thanks Steve for the reply. I don't understand about the cable ties? What are they for? Thanks

Hi, Looking for recommendations for a cheap tool(s) to lever the car trim to tuck the dash cam wires. Example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403358594579?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Da575d024ad0c4af1854f610abc9f13e7%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D221976855293%26itm%3D403358594579%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Acd93e0ba-a8ff-11ec-9147-f2ca763d6307|parentrq%3Aabf94b1e17f0a6e5bb88e87ffffc4da8|iid%3A1 I've loosely routed the cable around the top of the passenger sun shade (), down the car door rubber seal, and is connected to the fuse panel. All working. Any tips for tucking the cable into the trim would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Joe

Is Lincoln too far for you? Try Audi Lincoln, and my personal favorite "Just Audi VW" in Lincoln. They use genuine parts unless you tell them otherwise.

Hi, Can anyone recommend someone for supplying and installing a 360 camera with MMI on my 2020 Q5? HazzyDayz are looking to charge close to £3k and would be holding my car for a couple of days. A person on facebook says he can do it for £1,500 using USED genuine parts, and would take a good full day. Looking for someone who can do it cheaper with genuine parts? I'm in Lincolnshire / Nottinghamshire and willing to travel to you. Thank you in advance. Joe

I had the same issue with my 2.0 tdi 2009 VW Scirocco. Only happened in cold weather generally and first start of the day. I didn't get down to the issue, but i put it down to the remap i had and using supermarket fuel. Could be totally wrong. After a few miles from cold start, the car was absolutely fine, so i left it.

those tyres look fine. But if you wanted to rotate them, do this. I assume they are uni-directional.

rotating tyres / wheels is not always as simple as side to side. Depends if your tyres are directional. Check if all your tyres are the same brand, and take a high res picture of the entire tyre side wall and stick it here. I'll take a look.

Hi, Is it definitely not the road? Road with drainage cuts are so loud. Anyway, instead of swapping tyres front to back, rotate the tyres. Not sure if your car is quattro (i don't think so) or directional tyres? https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=rotating+tyres&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiA6Obg1_f1AhVIQMAKHdKkC3YQ_AUoAnoECAgQBA&biw=1536&bih=722&dpr=1.25 On my old VW golf, i used to get loud road noise. Garage thought it was the bearings but found nothing when on the ramps. Rotated the tyres, and after 2000 miles the noise was drastically reduced. Some cars / tyres develop a "saw tooth" which can be really bad. https://www.continental-tires.com.gh/car/technology/tyre-knowledge/lex-1-3-1

Correction, i think it is ICE pre-heating. Engine pre-heat with auxiliary heater is an option in my OBD11. I'm assuming there is some sort of function of the car, and this will reduce the range if that happens. Not tried it, or have any other info. I guess with 25% battery left, the MMI wasn't detecting any traffic or slow routes/roads, so allowed you to use the rest of the battery for the last 200 miles. You've done well 75% over 200 miles. My car doesn't support wireless android auto (newer models do i think). Works fine plugged in (arm rest 2 USB, and 1 in front of the gear stick), but just a pain with an extra cable. I bought this, waiting for delivery. I can't give any feedback yet https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/carsifi-wireless-android-auto-adapter#/ Other option is https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/aawireless#/ I've had the same situation with battery on 0%, but will travel a little on EV without the ICE, if you feather the throttle - normally driving into the housing estate or into work's car park.

Hi Gareth, You are totally correct. Not for everyone! Let's just forget about price for now. It is just like choosing between petrol and diesel, big engine or small engine. you pick the car that is suitable for you. People who do short runs daily this would be great (school runs and shopping trips, sorry to be stereotypical). I do just over 20 miles to work, and 20 miles back home, so ideal for me (even with heating, it only just makes it on EV). Charge off-peak (7p/KWH) and free at work (bonus). Works around 2p per mile, beat that. YEP - electricity charges going up 😞. This is what happened to diesels, ahhhhh. Okay, i have to admit, it isn't for everyone, and long trips at 32mpg petrol/hybrid isn't great, but it is the enjoyment of the car. Don't by a Ferrari if you're gonna complain about the MPG. Buy the car that suits you.