ucb

Typically, from 2015 untill this year, after a service and/or oil change the 2 counters were set to 18000. oil change used to come up at about 16000 and so I opted for oil change and service at the same time. Every second 18000, ie 36000 was oil filter fuel filter etc.

Yes, sorry, a key point I missed 12000-13000

Hi Audi A1 tdi 2014 originally, the service indicator displayed "service 18000 miles" and it slowly counted down in miles and days. The oil change indicator "oil change 18000miles /days" and this counted down and usually by about 16000 to 17000, there would be a reminder that an oil change was needed. Typically, the oil and service "clocks" were usually so close together the processes were done at the same time. Looking at the indicators after a service, both back to 18000, or close. I now find an oil change is at 9000 miles? Can anyone direct me as to how to set these functions back to my original "18000miles"? many thanks

Steve Thanks for the technical information, that all seems to fit together and aids my understanding. Many thanks

Audi A1 tdi. At start up the engine speed is 800rpm. I am sure that this should be above 1000rpm and slowly reduce as the engine warms up? Maybe connected to this is that sometimes, until the engine temperature rises a little, there is a slight "miss fire". What sensors control the engine at start up? Thanks.

Magnet Thanks. Yes it is working at the moment.

Thanks for the quick feedback Done the wd40, see how it goes for few weeks. Cheers ucb

A1 tdi 2014. The fuel tank filler flap will only open if I click the key fob to open the car even when the car is already unlocked? I am sure that previously it was open when the car doors were unlocked? Any light on this? Thanks

Hi on tdi versions (maybe others) it sits above the air filter box, engine compartment passenger side. Could be an expensive electric driven pump up behind the wheel arch passenger side. Its possible to see the cap for the fluid topup way down the engine compartment passenger side behind the headlight unit. Hope thats helpful.

Hi I think S lines had that as standard but maybe thats not the case. Otherwise, the "mirror switch" on the drivers door just to front of the window switches has - left to adjust the passenger door mirror - right for the drivers side - and all the way round to point the switch indent to the rear of the car. The mirrors should then fold in. You may have details in the car documents giving "codes" as to the original fit. There are on-line chats to work the codes out to see in your car was fitted for /with. Hope that helps

Thanks Steve

Hi All Bit of a late one on this subject, wish I hadn't had it done but I think toooo late now. However, I seem to remember for Audi A1 tdi, there was a letter that said, apart from other related things, there was an addition to the air inlet somewhere of a "wire mesh" to "improve" the air flow. Can anyone confirm that and/or other, and where this "mesh" would have been fitted? Also, has anyone looked into "reversing" the process to get back to the performance/economy that we had before the event? Maybe, someone tried some of the "black box" tuneup devices to improve performance? I would be interested to hear any of these. My car has just past 105,000 Many thanks

Gareth Rule of thumb ish. The vehicle supply is a nominal 12v, if all is well a resting battery should be 12.8v. The charging system should quickly go to 14.5 ish to maybe 15v and then be controlled by a volts regulator. And so I expect that the steering pump will be cable of 15v at least and if it will handle (by specification) a plus 3v increment it would also handle a 3v down below the nominal 12v to 9v. I havent been able to get a full manufacturers spec on the pump, its all based on "general" practices.

Gareth Many thanks for your reply. Yes, battery may well turn out to be the issue but If the rated voltage for this unit is 12v and it must be capable of 15v to cover for a "charging" cycle" is it possible that its lower end spec would be 9v ie operating voltage spec 12v+/- 3v. And so it should not "fault" out at 9v ? Also if the battery is low why do other components not fault out? Battery may be cheaper than the pump? Bri

A1 dci 2014 power steering fault light on at start-up. Typically, when the car has been stood for a few days at start up the power steering light comes on. After maybe 1 or 2 mins at idle the light goes out and power steering is restored. Typical voltage readings that apply are Battery voltage at switch on there was no fault Battery charges to 14.7 Switch off - battery drops to after a rest period 12.7 engine off and full lights 12.2 recovers after a period to 12.4 A few days later:- at 12 degrees 12.4 Cranking 9.9 Then charging quickly to to 14+ still no fault After 7 days 11/6/22023 Temp 18.5 ignition off voltage 12.32 ignition on 12.05 warning light on Cranking 10 ish seconds after start 14.6 warning light out after about a minute steering ok idle voltage after 2 mins 14.7 switch off and after 5 mins battery volts at 12.86 I ready some say it is due to a poor battery which may be but if the pump's specification for operating voltage is a nominal 12volts then I would expect the operation parameters be up to 15volts ( ie maximum charge from the alternator) and so taking the lower operational voltage to be a similar figure down to 9/10volts. Any help with this one please and maybe some one has a wiring diagram to also indicate the cable terminal point? Many thanks