evopilot

Yup unfortunatly in this model the switch is non removable and built into the master cylinder similar to this picture:

Hi Gareth, To be clear the clutch itself although initially suspected of being an issue was not touched nor was the slave cylinder. How this initial diagnosis was made was was the cars clutch bite point was very low..... as in you would have to press the pedal 80-90% down before it would engage. If the pedal was pumped constantly the pressure would improve (to say only needing to have the clutch pedal pressed 30% before it would engage) when the car had warmed up after a few miles/kilometers. A fluid swap was done with fresh dot 4 at the same time clutch master cylinder/switch 2 was installed. Naturally after each install mentioned in the original post the the clutch would also need to be bled too. After each install the car would feel much improved in regards to bite points and how the clutch felt similar to when the car was first purchased in 2019 although the electrical system is now not happy 😕 *noting your point about the location in my bio* Thanks

Hi all, Ive searched and searched the forums but have been unable to find a replicating problem such as mine and my car has been sitting for weeks now unable to start. Ill try an explain everything in a easy to read format and get to the point instead of spamming the thread Original problem: my clutch pedal had lost all pressure and the clutch could not engage. (lets call this clutch master cylinder/switch 1) Solution: Order a new clutch master switch and fit (LUK brand) (lets call this clutch master cylinder/switch 2) At this point after the new switch was installed pressure was restored however the car would no longer start. New Problem: "Engine start system fault. Please contact workshop" error now displays on the screen when you press down the clutch pedal to start the car. At this point in ran VCDS and i got "Clutch Pedal Switch for Engine Start (F194) Not A Plausible Signal" knowing that this new clutch pedal master cylinder and switch was brand new i went part to the car parts supplier and insisted it was faulty. The store gave me another one i cant recall the brand but looked almost identical including the reference numbers at the side of it. (lets call this clutch master cylinder/switch 3). Clutch master cylinder/switch 3 is now installed with the system pressurized with all fault codes cleared by VCDS but again the error"Engine start system fault. Please contact workshop" remains even after this install. I then made a decision to back track slightly and install the original Clutch master cylinder/switch 1 as i knew the electrics of this one were ok but it had faulty hydraulics and would not engage the clutch only to be horrified that even now reverting to the original faulty part the "Engine start system fault. Please contact workshop" warning is still there and wont clear. Summary: 3 "faulty" clutch master cylinders/switches Car wont start error I can see on the data bits in channel 42 when i press and depress the clutch pedal the data bits change so the car can see the switch is there Ive checked every fuse beside the steering wheel, in the boot and none are blown Today i got a loan of a friends Snap-On SOLUS diagnostics tool hoping that would be in some way able to see more data but it was the exact same as VCDS in the fault information shown. Has anybody ever seen a similar scenario like this or does the clutch master cylinder/switch need to be adapted to the car. Does anybody have wiring diagrams? is their a relay or something im missing beyond a fuse?