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OK - the job is just about finished... It looks great and has really modernised the car, without (I think) looking out of place... My mate Dave and I finished the installation in a marathon session from 1700-2130 yesterday evening. I didn't take further pictures of the install, because it became so complicated. My advice if you would like to do this is (*Dave interjects* DON'T!)...😆 To do what you see here, the only Audi part you need to buy is the Double-DIN frame, part number 8H0858005A In order to use your current console, you'll need a Dremel (other mini-tools are available) to do some minor cutting so that the new cage will fit in place. It is fairly obvious where this has to happen once you have the frame and the console out. The part I can't get my head around, is the Climate Control Panel (CCP). It has to move to a lower position in the new cage, to allow for the larger head unit to fit, and the console, as you can see, tapers as it approaches the floor of the car. Now, I'm told that all the CCPs are identical (other than some having heated seat switches etc), yet it is too wide to fit where it should. Dave (who maintains F-35s and is a proper engineer) and I tried assembling everything off the car several times and were unable to get it to fit. It fitted and locked home as it should into the new frame, but the space afforded by the console was insufficient. So, we ended up hacksawing and filing it so that it would fit ("we" - Hah! Dave did 😆). We took off the lower bright trim first and then cut that separately. We took about 2mm off each side, smoothed it down with wet & dry and then it fitted perfectly. Once this was done, the original ashtray fitted, meaning the only part we replaced was the frame. I'm really pleased with the result, but feel that this thread, which I thought would be a useful guide, is more of a cautionary tale. Dave and I connected the rear of the head unit to accept a feed from a wireless rear camera. Unfortunately, the one I had bought from ATD (see above posts) turned out to be the wrong one - the boot release grip it was designed to replace was quite different when removed and couldn't be adapted. I've emailed ATD so that we may find a solution. We will come up with a key to solving this, and I'll post up the results. If a direct fit isn't available, Dave reckons we can remove the lock barrel and fashion a way to use the camera we have got to take its place... Merry Christmas! 🎅

"Dealers sent off the warranty claim and recieved reply that fault U112200 was on the car prior to sale so no warranty." Did they make you aware of this or any other faults at the time of sale? Were there any other faults that they know of that haven't been shared with you? The reply they gave you is indefensible - if you had known of the fault would you have still bought the car, or asked that it be fixed prior to delivery? A polite letter or email to the General Manager pointing the above points out should get your problem solved. If it doesn't then I'd agree with trying to reject it on the grounds that the warranty isn't fit for purpose (but don't threaten this in your initial letter. Don't forget - it's a positive outcome you're after - not points scoring).

So - the car has been away at Norwich Audi getting a new cam fitted. At least it's now mechanically tip-top 😎 I have bought another double-DIN cage and console from eBay. These both from the same car and pictured before removed. I've not had a chance to compare anything yet - but my plan will be to remove the head unit and climate control panel from the car, and then fit them into the new frame and console on the garage floor, to see if there are any fit issues. If there aren't, then we'll remove all the parts from the car and start from scratch. I had the head unit in place (albeit a slightly bodged fit) when I drove to Norwich and back. It worked perfectly, with all the steering wheel controls functioning as they should - a real plug & play solution. If only I can get it to fit correctly... 😆

For anyone still interested, I picked the convertible up from Norwich Audi this morning. They fitted a new cam and cam-followers (aftermarket) with Audi one-use bolts; a new thermostat and - whilst they were in the area, I asked them to fit a new cam belt kit. My subconscious has blocked out the total cost, but it is FIXED! It runs and drives superbly and is currently back in my garage, where I am going to sort out the double-DIN swap this weekend. ~After that, I'll valet it and plug it into the battery tender to await some better weather... By the way, this is the kit I bought - everything else was from VAG https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373431911649

So - apparently the A6 and Audi 100 C4 had different part numbers for the front wings, and they are not compatible...🤔 Although I'm pretty sure the chap I bought these from said they were from an Audi 100, he was also the one who told me they were the same on both vehicles 🤨 The only number marked on either wing is this: ...which my parts guy says is probably a manufacturer's batch production number or something - and he's unable to identify the wing from it. So - can anyone help me identify these wings please? Otherwise, I have a feeling they're destined to return to the loft... Cheers, Mike

Hi Colin - just sent you a private message 👍

Hi Colin, £150 for the pair. If you want them, we’ll have to work out how to get them to you. There are more pictures in the listing in the Parts For Sale forum: Mike

Please see my listing in the Parts for sale forum

Please see my advert in the Parts For Sale section

For sale - a pair of good used front wings to fit an Audi 100 or A6 C4 The arches have some minor surface rust - but nothing serious... Genuine Audi parts I bought these 10 years or so ago, with an aim to keep them to fit them to my (sadly missed) A6 Quattro when it became necessary - they've been in the garage loft ever since. These clearly came off an Audi 100 - but the A6 C4 uses the same part number... How does £150 for the pair sound? That would be the price collected - I'd be happy to meet halfway within reason to deliver them. If you want them shipped, it would have to be at your expense and risk... Mike 😎

So, I removed the climate control panel this afternoon - we are clearly doing something wrong here and I want to get to the bottom of it. It came out quite easily (although it has left some scratches on the 'new' console). Seems that brute force has broken off pieces of plastic guide on the left side... ...although, looking at the right side, it shouldn't affect eventual refitting... The bright metal trim on the bottom comes off by undoing two tiny torx self-tappers - and justifies my purchasing that mini-torx set at the Motorcycle Show seven years ago...😆 Underneath, just plastic. So, the plan is to completely remove the 'new' console and start again, to see it we have gone wrong somewhere - perhaps by fitting something on the inside of a bracket, rather than the outside. If we find ourselves in the same position, we can take some careful measurements and gently file the plastic down to fit. Once it fits correctly, we can remove it, file the bright trim to match, screw it back on and refit. Whilst the console is out of the car, I'll have a play about with the heat gun to see if I can improve the look of the scratches we made. Postwoman delivered this today... 😃

So - I seem to remember seeing a piece on YouTube on repairing textured plastic - they were talking about plastic bumpers, but they used a heat gun to gently warm the area up. Anybody have any experience of this? I'm going to remove the CC panel tomorrow, which will likely cause a little more damage. If it's bad - I'd like an option to hide (or minimise the appearance of) this. My plan is to remove the bottom bright trim and see if the unit will fit without it (as it feels like that is the only part that's not fitting into the console). If it does, I can file/grind the trim back on the bench before refitting it to the panel and try to fit it again... A sneak peek at the next job - boot lid liner removed (just remove the warning triangle and undo the two Allen bolts underneath it - then the whole thing can be unclipped with the correct amount of application). Which reveals... ...the amazingly complex piece of metalwork which comprises the inner boot lid. I fear our journey will be taking us behind this Gordian knot of cables...😱 More later...

Right - where were we? Oh - yes... So - a cold morning, let's get stuck in. After removing another two hidden bolts, and the handbrake handle and shroud, the whole centre console lifted out, with surprisingly little jiggling about. It helps that we're doing this in a convertible with the top down... Two more 8mm hex bolts and the old frame came free... ...and joined the old console on the garage floor. The new frame is screwed in place, and the new console fitted. We start reassembly from the back (centre armrest) and work our way forwards. This will prove to be a mistake. The bottom of the climate control panel is too wide for the console. Unfortunately, we don't notice this until we've scratched the console... I don't understand. My parts guy was adamant that the only parts I needed to swap were those listed (ie console, frame and ashtray). I wonder if I should have unscrewed the bright trim panel from the bottom. It's jammed in at the moment - not quite home. We decided to call it a day, as we both had other commitments at lunchtime, and there's no hurry to get this finished. The head unit hasn't arrived yet - although when I got home this evening there was a 'missed delivery' card, so hopefully it'll be here on Monday. I'm going to email my parts mate and see if there are any changes we may have missed. All YouTube videos show it being removed and refitted easily - it certainly came out of the original frame with ease.... Any ideas?

Hi there, I recently fitted a new head unit on my other car (Škoda Superb) and have been most impressed by it. Not least is the ability to fit a reversing camera - operating wirelessly. I decided to research whether it might be possible to convert my old A4 convertible to accept a similar unit. Turns out that it is. The S-line (mine's a Sport) was offered with a double-DIN option, and my car shares most of the parts. FAIR WARNING - This is a work in progress and I have not completed the installation - I will post again when it's all back together... 😆 What you'll need: An Audi double-DIN cage, part number 8H0858005A (the single-DIN part number is 8H0858005 - so don't get caught out. You'll need this to accommodate your new head unit, and to allow you to move your climate controls to a lower level. A new centre console - part number 8H0 863 241D 6PS A new ashtray(!) - part numbers 8E0 857 951J 4PK and 8E0 857 967E 6PS Using eBay I found all these bits for a total of £105 including delivery. I seem to remember reading a piece on doing this conversion before, where the poster suggested carving up your existing centre console to get stuff to fit. Since the bits were relatively cheap and available, I haven't explored that option. You have a choice of head units. After my experience with the Škoda, I went back to the firm I dealt with for that - Audio Tech Direct (ATD) - who gave me great guidance to make sure I ordered the right bits. I can't post a link, but do a search for item number 185526960916 on eBay. Additionally, I ordered a reversing camera, which fits in place of the boot release catch. Item number 174097091532 on eBay. The impressive thing about the camera is that it's wireless - so no running of cables between the boot and the head unit... 😃 OK - to business... You'll likely spot that there are some changes from 'factory' already. I have fitted and after-market head unit, a cordless charger for my phone, and heated front seats. The best way to work out where the (many) fasteners are, is to look at your replacement centre console... Most are 8mm headed bolts, which anyone with experience of messing with Audi/VAG dashboards and trim will be familiar with. Two 13mm nuts under the rear ashtray and... ...these two, hidden way down by the clutch pedal and on the left... 🤨 The purpose of today's work was to take out the fasteners and identify the wiring I have in the car at present. I've sent pics to ATD, so they can ensure they send me the right loom to ensure it is 'plug & play' - including the steering wheel controls - once it's connected up. So, these are the original factory plugs that fitted into the back of the Audi Concert stereo my car was equipped with when it was new (it doesn't have the Bose option)... ...and this... ...is the model number on the loom I fitted to connect to the Pioneer unit - which allowed for full functionality of the steering wheel controls. All a bit of a mess at the moment. I'm going to leave it as it is until I have heard back from ATD. My mate Dave will (hopefully) be around soon, and we can get the console out and the frames swapped over. I'll post an update then... 😎 Edited to add - Just heard back from ATD. The head unit I have bought will accept the factory plugs and will work as if factory fitted... 😃

Hi there, I recently fitted a double DIN stereo/GPS head unit in my other car (Škoda Superb), and have been impressed with its performance. I'd like to try to do the same to my B7 Convertible. I currently have a single DIN stereo fitted, but I've just ordered a used frame off eBay (part number is 8H0 858 005A for the double and 8H0 858 005 for the single)... There's a YouTube video of how to do the job: ...in fact, there are several. Has anyone here done it? Any tips? Thanks in anticipation, Mike PS One of the plusses with the unit I fitted in the Superb was its ability to accept a signal from a wireless reversing camera. This is another enhancement I'd like to fit. The camera is situated in either the boot release handle, or a number plate light. Once hooked up to a power supply, it sends its signal to a receiver connected to the rear of the head unit...

So, just back from my mate Darrell's place, in darkest Huntingdon. We hooked the old girl up to his VCDS emulator thing, and looked at the injectors at various power settings. There's a clear difference in cylinder three, whilst the others are all reading normally. The car doesn't smoke, or use any oil, and - having replaced the injectors, the only culprit left is the cam and cam followers.🤨 So, I'm buying an aftermarket kit - but fitting Audi-supplied bolts (they are stretch bolts). I'm waiting for a callback from my tech to see how many hours this will be. Anybody know how much more work it would be to replace the cam belt at the same time? He's going to have to re-time the cam etc, so - even though it's a couple of years from being due, I wonder if it might be false economy not to?🤔

Hi Steve, This is my experience from a C4 A6. I started getting the glow plug light flashing, accompanied by a beeping. Usually four flashes. Eventually, a master tech at Norwich Audi told me that this was an indication that the battery was in poor condition, A new battery cured it. As I say, this was a much earlier vehicle, but I thought I'd mention it, on the off chance it's relevant. Cheers, Mike

Silly suggestion - check your floor mat and make sure it hasn't ridden up and is fouling the pedals...

Just sends me to the Q5 page at Pistonheads.🤔 Radical idea - post the price up? 😆

Resurrection update... I left the convertible with Norwich Audi whilst I was out of the country. So, they replaced all the injectors, plus the loom that powers them. Unfortunately, this didn't cue the cruising misfire.😬 Their Master Tech reckons it's likely to be cams and camshaft followers...😱 I've told them to button it up, and I'll decide what to do next... Bugger. Mike 🤨

Well, managed to get the manifold replaced. Here is the old one... <Rolf Harris> Can you see where it's cracked yet? </Rolf Harris> I can't believe how quiet the engine is now - this has clearly been blowing for a while. Still have a misfire/surge at certain throttles settings, though. I think I may have to look at the injectors over the winter...🤔 Hey-ho - maintaining an ageing Audi isn't for the faint-hearted...😆 Mike 😎

Found another one - £120 delivered and being shipped tomorrow... 😎

Update: Audi discontinued these in 2021; they were £580 when available. I have found a breaker with a used one for £150 delivered, and have asked for pics. If anyone is interested, the correct part number is 038253031L

Well, an unexpected (and very unwelcome) addition to the thread. I did an oil change this afternoon and, as soon as I took the engine cover off, noticed that everything was covered in a layer of soot... So, some further delving revealed the culprit... A severely cracked exhaust manifold...😬 Anyone have a spare for a 2.0TDi 140 (BPW) engine? Mike 🤦‍♂️

Hi Steve, I took his answer from a text, "your engine has been breathing in all the EGR gases" - but you're quite right. As regards the state of the filter - it is clogged with obviously carbon based oily dirt. I've never seen a filter fouled this way. It definitely isn't just 2000 miles of airborne contaminants, so I'm mystified as to what might have caused it... 🤔 Thanks for the lead on United Diesels - I'll check their website 👍 Cheers, Mike 😎