kh904

I'm sure you will be okay since you've called Audi Assist as soon as you got the message (assuming you haven't done many miles and hard braking since).

Unfortunately the unit will need to be replaced. You maybe able to get a specialist to recondition it but I would guess that it won't be much cheaper than buying a replacement cluster. It's dead simple to replace (youtube is helpful), but be careful as the are many variations/different part numbers and there are different styles over the years. There is also the standard colour and there's a darker tinted colour, so make sure you get one that matches your current cluster

Ouch! You've had particular bad luck with your A4! Mine hasn't been too bad in terms of non-wear and tear repairs, but then again i don't do many miles (around 3k a year)!

I hear you! I'm also annoyed with Audi, because they are well aware of the issue with the part, yet make no effort sending out comms to the owners!

I concur with the other responses! That is horrendous service from Audi! What a rip-off! I purchased a genuine OEM part from Audi for around £90 and it took me less than 5 minutes to replace (no exaggeration)!

It's unlikely that it's something the garage did. It's a very common issue so the timing is just a coincidence. Please do not drive it until the the sensor is replaced (it's so easy to do).

I wouldn't have thought the engine management warning light is related to the brake sensor. Probably a coincidence. Definitely get a scan done

Just seen this thread! I had a similar issue on my A5 sportback. It's a motor/servo arm motor (can't remember the proper name). I believe there are 3 motors on the drivers side and the one that needs changing is the most difficult to get access to. You don't need to remove the whole dash as the Audi instructions say, you can remove the dash panel under the steering and the side below the centre console and get access. You need to remove one of the other motors to get access tot he one to be replaced. It's a tight fit but possible. There's a guide on youtube somewhere.

Doesn't the S-line have more exterior details? The S-Line has a slightly different bumper (i little more sportier), has side sill trims, the bottom of the rear bumper is slight different - more sportier), and the alloys are better.

I'm glad that the problem is resolved. If for whatever reason the ABS is 'bricked', there are companies that can repair it for a fraction of the cost (around £500 i think), so you don't have to replace the whole abs system for £3k+, but you will be without the use of the car while the abs part is sent to the company to recondition and replace the chip/ROM.

I'm not sure what what causes the part to fail, but the part was superceded with a new part number (part number ending in A). I'm not sure if this new part number is more reliable than the old. I ended up paying £90 for a genuine OEM part from Audi as my car was relatively new and didn't want to risk going for a £20 chinese copy, but i'm sure they are just a reliable. Audi should be ashamed of themselves on how they have dealt with this fault and has left a bitter taste in many owners mouths. I moved from a Peugeot 406 Coup to the Audi A5 Sportback, thinking that the quality will be a step up, and to be honest the Peugeot, despite it's age was very reliable!

I agree, it's really really bad from Audi and they should update the message on the dash to say 'Not to driver further and contact them'. They are also well aware of this faulty sensor because so many people have experienced this fault and contacted Audi. There really should be a class action case against them!

Hi mate, Here's a video: This one shows the passenger side which is much easier to repair as there's much better access to the control motors, so it's not much help. I'm trying to find the video for the drivers side replacement (for the V159 motor), but no luck finding it yet.

Unless you regularly get your car serviced at an Audi dealership, you'll unlikely get any 'goodwill' from them. If worst comes to worst, you can send the ABS module to a specialist who can repair/reset it for under £500. I think i've posted the link of a company that does this in this thread (go back a few pages). I can't vouch for them though as i've never had to use them.

Have a look here: https://cardiagn.com/audi/ or https://www.car-repairmanual.com/audi/audi-a3/

Have a look at the Vagtechnic youtube channel. They have done plenty of timing chain replacements. There is an issue with the VAG (not sure if it's Audi specific) TFSI engines (prior to 2019), where the timing chain, rocker arms (specifically the pins), timing chain guides and tensioner have issues. The pins in the rocker arms, the timing chain and tensioner have since been upgraded and you should replace the whole lot otherwise you run risk of catastrophic engine damage. If you are hearing noises as you described, then I would seriously suggest not revving the car too hard and get the timing chain work done asap. I have to say, from previously owning a Peugeot 406 coupe, I thought Audi were supposed to be a step up in build quality, but the Peugeot was like a tank. I'm 2 years of owning my A5 sportback (2018 B9), the temperate flap motor for the climate control, brake pressure sensor and rear led cluster has failed (costing around £700 to fix), and my obd scanner is picking up faults with a couple of climate control flap malfunctioning! I've barely driven 3k miles in 2 years! I'm not impressed with Audi at all!

Ok, just an update for those who may have a similar problem.... I removed the rear light cluster and thought that I could open up the unit, but unfortunately not. It's a sealed unit, so you can't easily replace the leds, so I purchased a replacement cluster and so far the problem is fixed. It seems that enough moisture go into the clutter to cause the fail. It does seem that it's bad product design from Audi, especially the water channels where the tailgate/boot meets the taillight cluster. The rubber & plastic trim isn't water tight and water can get through!

Ok, so i've used my obdeleven scanner and done numerous output checks and itried the followi g: All rear lights - all the lights except the right rear brake light were on All left rear lights - all left rear lights were on and ok All right rear lights - all right rear lights except the right rear brake light were on All brake lights - ALL the brake lights were on INCLUDING the right rear brake light! So the LEDs on the right brake lights are not blown which make me confused on how that can be! The fault code on the scanner is: B12C313 (Rear brake light bulb - open circuit), status: static and U112100 (Databus missing message), status: intermittent Not sure if that helps anyone?!

Hi all, I've had a warning message pop up on my 2018 sportback (b9) - 'Right rear brake light defective'. I've had a look at the rear and the rear light works when I put the lights on, the indicator works, but the brake light doesn't when I press the brake pedal. Does anyone have any idea how to replace the brake light led? I've had a look online and can't seem to find any info! There seems to be a bit of condensation/moisture in the housing (passenger side seems fine and works ok). Thanks in advance

It's not necessary to have the ABS ECU reset, UNLESS it reached the the fault counter limit and bricked the ABS module.

Great to hear there is a relatively cheap solution of the ABS 'bricks'! It would be great of the mods can put a 'sticky' on the ecutesting.com as I feel it would be a great help to many people.

As 'Magnet' posted above, renew the sensor without delay and avoid driving the car if possible or you run the risk of 'bricking' the ABS unit. It's a case of spending £20 for a aftermarket sensor (or £90 for a OEM Audi sensor), vs £2-3k for a new abs pump....

I'm glad that you managed to get it sorted!

I had a heater flap motor fail on my2018 A5. A genuine OEM motor also cost me around £165. A specialist Audi mechanic (4Rings in Dartford) replaced it. It was the driver's side that failed, which is more difficult to replace as there's little room to navigate (the bottom of the driver's side dash had to be removed, and there is another flap motor that had to be removed that was in the way). Officially going by the book, the whole dash should be removed (depending on what flap needs replacing), but few youtube video's show that you can get away with removing just the bottom half of the dash. I advised the mechanic and he managed to do it that way saving about 4-6 hours labour!!!! It took a couple of hours labour and they had to perform a 'basic setting' to pair up the part to the system. So you need a OBDII scanner with the basic setting function if you were to do a DIY job. Personally, unless you have the tools, seen step by step how it's done, and it's on the passenger side, I would leave it to someone more experienced. In total, it cost me around £460 (parts, labour + VAT).

Unfortunately you can't just reset the pressure sensor. I think there is some sort of physical/mechanical operation within the sensor that operates with the brake pressure, but I could be wrong. It is daft that a sensor fails so quick for a 'premium' brand.