SwaitsySG

Cheers Stevey. That's optimism i can live with, and I've plenty plusgas 🤣 I've a set of ring spanners but not any dedicated brake spanners, so maybe jump online the night and have a look for some 👍🏻

Thanks lads. I don't believe it's the abs unit Stevey. Not when the hoses are a tenner a pop. I'll try them first. I was curious about whether being solid externally or not at least gave some sort of indication as to whether they were bad. It's an old car, and the brake pipes are going to be rusty where they meet the flexi hoses. So trying to remove them could be a world world of pain in itself.

For the sake of opinion. Cheers.

Not something I'd considered, but it's possible. How firm should the flexi-hoses be?

Rear brake binding after caliper change Afternoon all. Think anyone could shed some light on this? So more often than not, but not all the time the nearside rear brake seems to stick, causing the wheel to heat up and the pads to smell. I'd initially changed the pads, cleaned the slider pins, filed the caliper carrier to clean it, and replaced the pad shims. I also added a thin smear of anti seize grease to the backs of the pads. No change. I've now changed the caliper, so that's brand new. Still no change. I might add at this point there's no squeaks or squeals, no fault codes for the braking system, no issues at the pedal end, no dash warning lights and the EPB appears to be functioning as it should. There was also no issues during the mot test, which the car passed two weeks ago. Any suggestions folks?

Just thought I'd post a quick update on this. What are we, 6 months later roughly? Racked up around 4000 miles since the repair. New plug is right where I left it, no leaks. Guess that's about as good as you could ask for.

I'll need to look into the water temp sensor theory Stevey, cheers for the suggestion. I agree with what you're saying about the coolant flow rate. Mine has sat quite happily idling in traffic on hot days without problem. I've never had an overheating issue with that car. Though I can't say I've ever held the revs at 2500+ for extended periods of time. As far as the emissions test goes I dunno. That's just what the man said. Needless to say the mot has now been done and the car has passed. Regarding the AC as i say, the old fan did nothing when I switched it on but as mentioned the system needs recharged. I don't know whether that affects matters, but certainly from an electrical standpoint switching it on did hee haw. As far as 'knowing' the fan was goosed, I didn't. I just figured it was, between the faults and the lack of any sort of life. Never had an A6 before now but the fan used to kick in on my 2017 Leon ST quite frequently. Wasn't unusual to hear it whirring away as I parked up after decent run. Newer car and a later gen 2.0TDI though so maybe not a fair comparison.

Thanks for the reply Gareth. So basically while doing the emissions test the temp gauge started to creep up during the test. Technically 'overheating' in so far as it crept above normal operating temp, high enough that the fan should have kicked in but didn't, but not high enough to be catastrophic. Not into the red. So the test was abandoned, the tester airing on the side of caution. Under normal driving conditions the temp has never gone above normal operating temp. Gauge has always been rock solid. Sorry, I should have made that clearer. With the replacement fan technically working, albeit on the full time the engine is running, the car is going back to the same chap to complete the emissions test. And yes, 2500 revs. Or at least I assume he was running it stationary at 2500. I was unintentionally vague there. When I said higher revs I didn't mean top end. I forget that the revs generally only ever reach 2500 for a second or two at a time while changing up through the lower gears. Usually i change gear slightly before that anyway. Normal daily driving it never sits that high consistently. 70mph in 6th on the motorway you're looking at 1900rpm. Cheap is a misinterpreted word in this context. Inexpensive would have been better. Prestige Motor Services. (Dunno how good or bad their rep is within the Audi community. If any). They describe themselves as specialist Audi breakers, to use their words, that deal mainly in new and used Audi parts. I'll admit used electrical part - a gamble. Fair enough. With your advice in mind, I won't be getting any more parts until I've done more testing on what's already there so I'll look into AC pressure sensors following that. I'll add at this point that the fan will run continuously regardless of whether the AC is switched on or off. The AC needs recharged but if its switched off I'd have thought that wouldn't affect the fan. Its the single fan unit. So a main rad fan on one side and louvres on the other.

Aye, so it went like this; The old fan didn't work. The chap at the garage was reluctant to complete the emissions test on this basis, as it wasn't kicking in when holding the engine at higher end revs. When the car is out on the road the temp gauge sits where it's supposed to and the car runs quite happily. Its never overheated. But static in a garage, held at high revs for the emissions test, he was concerned that the engine might get too hot as the fan wouldn't kick in, so the test wasn't completed. My OBD scanner brought up a low control circuit fault and a blocked/difficulty of movement fault. There was no physical obstruction to the fan but the module terminals were quite corroded. Admittedly I only tested continuity of the power cable from the plenum chamber to the fan plug. That was fine and corrosion free. I sourced a replacement unit from an Audi motor factor as it was inexpensive, included both the fan and module, and tested and deemed to be 'in working order'. It could well be that this is at fault but I took a punt, two birds with one stone and aw that. I'd thought maybe a relay was the problem but was told it's in the fan motor itself on this particular setup. (CAGB 2009 2.0TDI with single fan). Installing the replacement fan and module, the 'new' fan comes on about 10 seconds after the engine is started And stays on until a couple seconds after the engine is switched off. There's no fault codes showing for the replacement fan. In fact, there's no fault codes coming up at all. Not for the fan, or any sensors. No lights on the dash either, such as for a dpf regen. There's two temp sensors on this engine, both on the back I believe. The main one is easy enough to reach though a mirror is required as there's no direct line of sight when changing it. That may be worth testing, or even changing as it's a quick job and costs buttons. But again, no fault codes relating to that. The sensor on the rad, which has also been known to contribute to misbehaving fans is the AC pressure sensor. Again no fault codes. That brings me to where i am at the moment, if that builds a better picture.

It's one thing going against a lot of the sensor theories; there's no fault codes. The last one was with the old fan. 😩 I'm told the relay is actually in the fan motor itself, ss opposed to a seperate one that can be pulled and replaced. I'm honestly stumped. Unless the fan I've put in is faulty, despite it spinning when the car is started.

Could be a reason. That would mean forcing a regen though. Not something I can do.

Hi Steve. I've an nt680 scanner. No faults found. Engine heats up to operating temperature and otherwise behaves as normal. I've tried testing continuity, got 0.6 ohms between the connector in the plenum box and the fan plug, matching the default on the meter.

Hi all. Apologies if this has been covered before. Still chasing a cooling fan problem on my 2.0TDI Avant. Recently went for an MOT. The fan unit was completely dead so not kicking in during the emissions test. I've replaced the fan unit and control module. The new fan comes on full tilt when the car starts up and now runs continuously until you switch the engine off. Any advice is appreciated. A relay issue maybe? Sensor? I should add this is the single fan unit. Cheers all.

In any case, I've completed the sump repair. Thread retapped, oversized plug in place and properly torqued. So far so good. Not done many miles but we'll keep an eye on it, see how it goes. I added two crush washers to the plug as they seem really thin.

Ooft! That would be heaven to me. A lot of nice machines there, actually a bit jealous of your A6, it looks lovely. And your bikes. (The father-in-law is the bike man, I'll have to send them over to him). And the size of the workshop.. My setup is a little more humble. One at a time unfortunately.

Cheers Steve. I'll be having a look. I was sent a manual of the fuse layouts. I think I've located the fan fuse, according to that it's in the engine bay. As for any relays it's going to be either the same or behind the dash somewhere. Nothing from inside the dash side panels or boot compartment seem to relate to the radiator fan from the fusebox diagrams.

Yi know, I think I'm getting the relay mixed up with the pcm, which seems to get referred to as a relay all too often from my online sifting. Getting hold of that bit, should it be needed, is easy. But a relay like you'd find in one of the fuse carriers? That's proving harder to find on the car and the fusebox diagrams don't help. I'm assuming the car has one, do you know where on the car it is? Is there a relay carrier under the dash similar to the C5 models?

No no, i do enjoy a 70's car. The Continental is a lump too! Whats the length of that? Seventeen odd feet? Theyll be wide as well, bit on the big side for my garage. Ah right, i see. He'll have seen a fair few nice ones come his way. Are they much harder to look after, the big Yanks? Keeping the rust at bay is my biggest pain. I'd say it's one of the better ones, i've seen more than my fair share of rot boxes, but it's still got a scab or two here and there. Typical Capri. !Removed! things were rusty from new! That's the winter project at any rate.

Really clean looking car Roy. Nice set of rs4's on it too. I might get a set for mine as I've never been as keen on the 7's. You said he was test driving it from work? I'm in the wrong job! 🤣

Very cool. I'm afraid I'm not old enough to remember those days 🤣 I remember 4 star though. In the late 80's. My last Laser was a 1.6 I had around 15 year ago. Paris Blue. It had had the conversion to run unleaded by the time I bought it. The Injection has a new all black interior with light grey Recaro's. I've been running it on Esso Supreme and Shell V Power.

Yes! Now we're talking. That's a lovely mk2 Ghia. Plenty of poke. Never owned any of the 3 litres before. To be honest this is my first Injection, I had Lasers before that. You must have really loved that Trans-Am! And a mk1 too. That looks like it was a while back. They can fetch crazy money now, closest I've ever got is the model on the living room bookcase 🤣 Admittedly the injection isn't entirely stock from a cosmetic standpoint, but I think it's still a looker. Not bad for an old Ford pushing 40. I've a bit of bodywork to do to it over the winter, nothing too major. The A6 does all the parts running.

Ah! Chevy Tahoe. A 4x4 man eh? Very capable looking beast that. Ha, only a 5.8.. A big ol' lump all the same. I work in Holland, they're dead into their American imports so I've seen a few of these kicking about. My 'other car' is a wee bit more modest. And is short a couple cylinders. 😉

Now that is an absolute weapon! Beautiful machine. Some sound out of that >'ll bet, though i doubt it would have been easy on the fuel. What made you sell it, if you don't mind me asking? Did you ever replace it was something else?

Aye that's true, it hardly breaks the bank and it's good housekeeping. Certainly doesn't do any harm changing it every 5k, i honestly thought perhaps that was too frequent. Maybe not. I take notions with driving. I work offshore on 3 week rotations so the car effectively spends 6 months of the year not being driven, other than a 10 minute run on idle once a week while I'm away. Her indoors, she's got her own wee runaround as the A6 is a bit too big. So when I'm on leave i could cover 1500 miles or 50 depending on what im up to. That's low miles indeed. Mine has covered 240,000 and counting. Still going strong. For now anyway! 🤣 Mostly motorway miles, previous owner had it 5 year and used it for commuting to Dunfermline from Perth. It does me fine, its a good ol' bus. Ha! Nothing wrong with a bit of recycling. 😉 Take it the van wasn't too fussed! They're big lumps those Trans-Ams. Nice cars.

I have a sneaky feeling you're not going to approve. I may have told a little white lie, I didn't notice the drain had been stripped when I did the oil change. It was quite a while after, when I looked under the car and noticed a small weep. OK, I dare say I may have been lucky and dodged a bullet there so I put my hands up. My bad. In either case the plug was still tight with no play and I still had to unscrew it with the rachet to get it out and check, so it's not nearly bad enough to be sliding or wiggling. But it is partially stripped. I'm confident it's not my handywork as I was so super paranoid about stripping it in the first place that I just tightened the plug up to the washer, then gave it a slight nip with the rachet. I'd been of the thinking of changing the oil frequently. Lots of theories on whether it be every 5k, 10k or more. I decided to go 5k. It's an old car i bought as a runaround for less than 2 grand and has a high mileage. I don't use it for work, just social excursions. So from that, next oil change is due in roughly 1500 miles. I'll admit I feel 5k is excessive, and it's £60 odd a pop to do a change, so I'll be increasing the interval for the next. Anyway, short term fix was the ptfe tape and copper washer on the plug. It's tight on with no play but not over tightened. I can't move it by hand and the weep has stopped. I check it very regularly. (As well as keeping a close eye on the rear view mirror for the trail should it decide to go). Long term is I'm re-threading it a size up from the current plug. I've already got the kit. And the method is demonstrated in one of the vids RoyC posted. As I see it, if I make a complete hash of it it's a new sump regardless and my go-to garage is a few minutes away. If I don't I potentially save some cash. If it starts weeping again it'll be quiksteel and I'll be doing subsequent changes through the dipstick.