Pappa583
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Everything posted by Pappa583
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That is a disgusting charge! I had the fault appear on the dash, quick search to see what the cause could be and think the part was 14.99 from vag parts. Changed it in less then 5 mins and no issues since. Audi dealers should be ashamed of what they charge! No wonder the showrooms are so nice, shows how much mark up they have in car sales and service charges.....
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Well, after all this time, still no new tyres as they still legal.... turns out the tyres are not noisy at all.... driver side rear wheel bearing changed yesterday and what a difference.... the car is almost silent now! 2 sets of bearings, inner amd outer and one of the sets, all the balls bearings were a psychedelic blue almost from the heat.... Good to know the noise I had heard did exist as the other half said it was just road noise..... must admit though this last journey pulling the caravan back from the lakes it got alot worse. I got the wife to drive after I'd dropped the caravan off, climbed in the back and lifted the floor cover up to get my head down to the wheel arch and was pretty clear which side..... Happy at last but tyres are coming with another handful of pound notes to hand over 😭
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If only I had just bought them when the 20% was off.... over £1000 now 😳
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If they are already worn unevenly suppose need to get the wheel Alignment done when i change them. Either put up for now and change when they are prob back to full price.... Tyres im looking at are Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 SUV Tyres: 285/40 R21 109Y. Extra Load, Rim Protector. £866 fitted
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Cant say I remember the noise then tbh, has seemed to be more noticeable recently, well the last few long journeys I've noticed the slight drone and even turned the music off to see if I could definatly hear it. Wouldn't say its so much uneven wear accross the surface of the tyre, just now the more worn (3mm) fronts are now on the rear and the fronts (4.5mm) have the old rears. Looking at the tyres they appear more worn than when the guage measures the depth as these alenzas don't have alot of cross cuts in the tread anyway? Was even thinking while the tyres are on 20% off could change the 4 and keep the 2 fronts as spare but not going for the same tyres this time and wouldn't mix the types on the car anyway so it's maybe an expensive mistake to loose the drone. Although the tyres will need changing in a few more months anyway..... 🤷 Now I'm thinking if the noise changes with different surfaces 🤔.....sure it does. I've had wheel bearings go bad in cars over the years and know the noise obviously starts slight and gets worse just never had such a heavy car with the quattro so was hoping owners have experienced the same and new tyres sorted the problem? 🤞
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Have a slight drone to the car rear I think? which has been noticeable for a few journeys now.... I do a pretty long just under 300 mile journey every few weeks and have noticed the noise for a while. Isnt as loud as a wheel bearing yet 🤞 and the wife hasnt noticed, but not sure she would 😅 I did rotate the fronts to the rear about 6-8 month ago as the difference in tyre wear was a few mm, the tyres are all 4, a set of Bridgestone alenzas. Hope the drone I'm hearing is the worn rears which I've measured around 3mm.... front 4-5 ish so. Found currently there's 20% off when buying a set of 4 tyres but still a few miles left on these..... Was suprised after buying a digital guage they had the mm's left as was all ready for changing them out! Had a full transmission service carried out on the car when I got it at a zf gearbox specialist including diffs, transfer and gearbox for peace of mind and it hasn't yet reached 60k miles so tyres i hope..... Anyone else experienced the tyre noise when they are worn but not quite even worn to the wear indicators.... Suppose the only way to eliminate the tyres would be to change them but it's gonna be around £1k for the 4 corners 🥵, hoping it's a tyre wear thing and not the onset of a costlier repair bill?
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Car drives like normal for now but I wouldn't be driving it at all if I were you, not reading other people's posts..... if you are unlucky enough not to change the 15quid part in time and end up getting the total failure. Not worth the risk as the cost to fix could be alot
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Anyone changed door handles led light replacement
Pappa583 replied to Pappa583's topic in Audi Q7 Club
Cant believe no one has had any of these leds in the door handles fail, I had seen a video on how to remove the handle to change them but can't find it. Wad hoping someone had a link to the lights and how to video 😭 -
Yes, I sorted it, managed to find a tiny crack on the edge which must've been letting the dampness in. I just sealed it myself and haven't had any probs since. I couldn't get the light out though so good job I found the problem. Don't know if 170 is a bit expensive but given a new matrix headlight will cost over 1000 i suppose it could be money well spent if you can't DIY it Thanks paul
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Has anyone replaced the little door handle led lights? 2016 4m model I've noticed both front and rear are out now on passenger side. Take it they are easy enough to change? Has anybody replaced theirs and with what, genuine audi or aftermarket? I'm struggling to find any although sure I had seen a you tube video some time ago when the first one of the 2 went out but can't find it now.... Thanks Paul
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Good to know about quantum, I hadn't really heard of it but as you say expensive isn't always best.... Saving a few quid now could work against me and did sort of suspect that be the case.... ah well best empty the piggy bank then 🤷 Thanks paul
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Quantum oil used by the garage, cheaper than the castrol i was gonna use so how can specialist indy garage service be better using lesser quality oil? Maximum profit over quality suppose.....
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I'm maybe even over servicing to some extent, but is that even a thing. Don't think synthetic oils are as good as the mineral oils of old and nothing seems as good as it used to, the air filter has less than 20k on it so maybe too soon to change but it's just the old value question suppose. As you've said, we tend to take time and do things properly if we service ourselves over a garage who just wants us in and out..... Although I'm not a qualified mechanic, I work in oil and gas industry so can sort of turn my hand to most jobs, i would consider myself as good, if not more competent than some of the so called mechies ive worked with over the years, i have rebuilt engines and always done my own maintenance on cars older than this where resale value doesn't concern me. Suppose an oil change and the rest of the parts inbetween audi indy service certainly won't go a miss and maybe prolong the engine life to some extent.... I am planning on keeping the car so will also give me some peace of mind. Was considering selling and going electric but the q7 will take some beating and the q8 electric is far too expensive so keeping her, well until it starts playing up..... if🤞....far too many electronics, air suspension, digital everything and no matter how many times I change the oil and hoover the air filter housing, the electrical gremlins don't appreciate clean oil 😳 Cheers Paul
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I have a 2016 with just over 50k miles, not quite due according to the schedule for oil and fuel filters but.... wanting to be preventative and keeping ontop of service, oil being all Important for life of engine. I've been looking to change fuel, oil, air filters and use castrol professional oil. Clean the fuel filter pot properly (not just drain and refill) as ive found sludge on the sides and bottom on the wifes old golf when I did hers. Doubt the garage takes the time to go that far..... Anyway question is, sure I will have mixed answers..... Thinking of doing all the above and maybe pushing my audi indy service out a few thousand to keep the history updated or would you think evidence of what's been changed by receipts and photos would class as history of the service being done if i ever sold it? Not just cheap ebay parts either if it makes difference?
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Belmont, just down the road. Moved somewhere more exotic? As for insurance Premiums, think my dh4 postcode is a great excuse for higher prices
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Hi gareth, Not an audi this one's a ford Focusrs mk2 2010 so getting on a bit now, still under 40k miles but super clean and been garaged in my 6 years ownership Totally different to drive to the air suspension and automatic q7, its not as refined, noisy, bumpy as hell and I feel like it's trying to kill me every time I take it out on a Sunday blast.... not that it's been out in a while 😱 Paul
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Hi Gareth Think I need to sell the rs that just sits on the garage with all the no claims on it.... only did 500 Miles last year so really not getting used like it used to 😭.... If nothing else it will help towards the insurance and the new dreaded tyres in a few months Paul
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Just been looking for comparisons for the insurance due next month for my 2016 q7 and shocked by the price hike..... I'm a year older still no claims or convictions but wow.... the price is seriously high compared to last year, and the car is worth less than not was. Anyone else experienced the ridiculousness of renewals recently. I'm 50 next year, been driving since 17, clean license, own another car with 15 years no claims and 5 years no claims on this one.... aviva are almost £1k, others on compare the market are over £700
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Rotated the fronts with rears and noticed quite a difference in tread level. Looking to change the worn rears for 2 new tyres. Been looking online and want to get a pair of Bridgestone Turanza 6 rated A A and only 71db. Currently all 4 tyres are 285/40/21 and bridgestone alenza but not rated as good, tyres im looking at are 295/40 R21 Y (111). Slightly wider. Wouldnt make a difference would it if i out these on the rears?
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Didn't realise they would be so much different See the link, useful for anyone thinking of changing wheels and tyres from standard, shows speedo differences also. https://tiresize.com/comparison/
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What an idiot I am.... sorry they are 285 not 185. From the audi app, spec for wheels on car from factory were 285.45.20. Doesn't make much sense as even that wouldn't seem to be a match with the spare. Suppose either way whether it was OK with original wheels its not right with having 21s fitted now.... Either run flats when the tyres are due a change or some cans or foam....
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Hi Gareth, Your calculations better than mine....I did think there would be a difference and being that big a difference best not using it as it would damage the drive train... think the issue is the lad who had the car before me put 21" wheels on but the spare is from original. Reason it's deflated is its almost like a vacuum packed spare tyre so it fits inside the boot floor. The tyre is on the rim but the side wall is sort of folded so the tyre is smaller to fit in. If I inflate it wil never go back in 🤣 Might aswell remove it from the boot and store the spare in the garage for now, gives me some storeage aswell
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My q7 was a 5 seater from factory and Just noticed my spare tyre size is different. The new tyre, squashed down and deflated, never been used but realised the tyres fitted to the car are 185,40,21s but the spare is a 185,65,20..... Take it the wheels were upgraded by previous owner from 20s to 21s. Understand even having one new tyre fitted to one wheel and leaving a worn tyre on the same axle could cause issues with the quattro drive system? How do the sizes compare with overall diameter as don't want to use the spare if I ever needed to and end up damaging the drivetrain...
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Love the q7 but dread anything going wrong..... apart from it being ridiculously expensive for spare parts, they also need coding aswell! Change the battery, needs coding, headlight needs coding..... does everything need coding if it gets changed? And takenit the run of the mill odb won't code headlights, especially if they can't code a new battery unless it's exact like for like....
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Never really thought too much about this but as the dark nights are coming back I suppose its gonna happen again.... Seem to get loads of people flashing me when I'm out in dark, just presumed it was these matrix lights being really bright, but read a post that grey can be adjusted down (thought they were automatic) Anyway, how do you adjust them down and do you need a obd reader to relearn its new position or just adjust a screw?