RiftCygnus

Cool man. Thanks for the heads up on that. I'll check it out. It's not a problem. I figured that was the case, but even just getting input on the ability to replace individual parts on the lower intake manifold is helpful. Any kind of input is helpful, so i'm just throwing it all out there.

Hi everyone. I posted a while ago asking about an issue with my drivers side intake manifold runner flaps on my 2011 Audi A6 3.0T just randomly deciding to go crazy after driving a while. And it's not always consistent, as in it'll happen a few drives in a row, disappear for a few weeks or a month, then come back randomly. I had a P2019 code two to three months ago accompany the symptoms, but it has since gone away without me clearing codes and hasn't come back since. Even though the symptoms are still present. I had it sent to a Euro car shop and they tried driving it for a few days and found nothing. They checked for codes and found nothing, and also checked the sensor data for the intake manifold and found no abnormalities. So whatever this is, it's very finnicky and only comes out at certain times. So what i'm thinking of doing is just ordering the parts i think may be causing the problem and have the shop replace them. But before I do that, I wanted to ask some questions. My first question is, is it possible to replace the parts like the lower intake manifold runners' position sensor and vacuum actuator individually without having to take the turbocharger off and swap the entire lower intake manifold? For the second question, i'll preface that i'd probably buy the sensor and actuator brand new OEM, as i'm sure it'll be a lot less expensive than an entire OEM lower intake manifold assembly. But IF I decide to put in another lower intake manifold assembly if the sensor and actuator can't be replaced individually without taking off the turbocharger, where would be a good source to buy a good quality intake manifold assembly? From what I checked, an OEM lower intake assembly is around $1k. And from what it looks like on Amazon and such, aftermarket versions of the assembly are reviewed as and look kind of junky. So my thought is to possibly go for a used one from a low mileage vehicle from a reputable Audi salvage yard/recycler. Does anybody know if there are possibly any good quality aftermarket intake manifold assemblies or reputable Audi salvage yards/recyclers?

Alright. Cool. Thanks for that Steve. Good place to start on what it is. Happy to have any information on it.

Hey everyone. I recently had the P2019 code come on for my 2011 A6 3.0T a few drives ago. But for some reason, the code went away the next drive and hasn't occurred since. But, i've noticed that the normal Cold Start procedure that runs the secondary air injection system and other tests isn't running on a cold start since that code popped up. Usually the engine will idle at 1200 RPMs for a minute or two, then rest at 800 or so, but it just drops straight to 800 on cold start now. From what i've looked up, the code is for the "Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit". I looked it up in the Service/Maintenance manual, found the diagram for the intake manifold and two devices on the end that I think maybe be involved. They're the "flap potentiometer" and the vacuum unit for actuating the intake manifold flaps. I'm not sure which component it would be. I don't know if the potentiometer is considered a sensor, because google says it's a "variable resistor or potential meter". So unless the vacuum unit has some sort of sensor in it, i'm stumped. I'm also not sure why it would be affecting the cold start procedures, so i'm hoping someone can help explain how that's involved.

Sorry, can you say that again? I can't understand the last sentence.

So i was finally able to get a good audio recording of noise I was talking about. It's more of a rattle I guess than a whining. Though I don't know if it's an initial, unoiled timing chain rattle before it gets tensioned right, or something else. You can hear it when the engine first turns over, then it gradually fades away. One really cold day, like i said above, continued for about a good 3 to 5 minutes of driving. Anybody have an idea what this is? https://vocaroo.com/1hsDsedLiIw5

Hey all. So i recently watched this video here about a seized 3.0T Audi engine due to seized rod bearings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rABgqmZkv6Y&ab_channel=HumbleMechanic He specifically said that the engine had oversized pulleys and a tune on it, which he thinks may have contributed to the rod bearings seizing. He, however, doesn't give any other specific reason for the bearings seizing besides the mods and some discoloration on the rods indicating excessive heat. So he speculates it may have been low on oil as well, and all the oil galleys in the crankshaft are clear. I read through the comments and someone posted something very convincing about most cases like this being due to oil dilution from a failing HPFP (High Pressure Fuel Pump) There's lots of confirmation in these comments about the pump failure, and also it being low on oil. I also found some sites mentioning driving short distances a lot and lots of cold starts in colder climates I'm considering doing the same as these engines and applying a tune, which includes an auxiliary intercooler and throttle body hose (and a power steering cooler for some reason). But no oversized pulleys yet. I'm just worried that if i do the mods, the same thing will happen to my engine. To me, it sounds like the way to cover all the bases is make sure the oil is checked and changed regularly, replace the fuel pump, and avoid short distance driving and lots of cold starts. Can anyone that's really familiar with this issue chime in if this information is correct? I'd rather do all the preventative maintenance at once than replace the engine.

A little late, i know. But figured I'd update. So i haven't tested the parking brake, but i sent the Audi to a shop since then just to have a general inspection done. They said that the parking brake cable was just unplugged and they plugged it back in. The Parking Brake warning went away for a while, BUT it ended up coming back a couple weeks later or so. So i'm assuming the clip on the cable plug is bad or something and keeps coming off. When i get to it, i'll probably just plug the cable back in and tape it together with duct tape or something.

It would be the supercharger, but yeah. It's a possibility. The only way i could think to confirm is pop the hood before starting the car and go listen to it.

Hi everybody. So i noticed this over time, but my engine has had a whining noise that typically happens when the car first starts up, but usually goes away after a second or two. I didn't think much of it during the summer because it was so short and it was wamer, but now it's getting cold up here in the Northeast and it's starting to happen more often/last longer. Especially with this experience i'm going to share. So a couple days ago, said whining happened and didn't go away even after letting the car sit for a few minutes. It kept going while driving and only became mostly unnoticeable after about 5 minutes of driving. The whining matched the engine RPMs, so i wouldn't think it was with the secondary air pump. And from what i remember, it didn't get louder or worse when turning the wheel. So i don't think it has to do with the power steering pump. Although it's still a possibility and haven't fully ruled it out. Those were the only possibilities i could find from a quick search of the symptoms, so i'm not sure what else it could be besides the supercharger whine. Which i'm not sure what to do about or how to confirm it. Has anybody experienced this before or know if there's a common issue like this with a specific part of the car? I'm worried it's something with the engine or the supercharger and that they're going on me.

Ok, so the codes are these: Control Module for Elect. Park/Hand Brake (J540): No Signal/Communication Supply Voltage for Right Parking Brake Motor (V283): Electrical Fault in Circuit

So are you asking me to press the parking brake switch and scan for any codes again? I did catalogue both of the e-brake related codes in this picture: https://imgur.com/a/C8Gy00S These were the only related ones i saw.

I actually cleared all the codes about 1 month after I received the car. So it's had about 3 months or more to run and gather codes since then, which i'm assuming means these ones are still legitimate. What do you mean by the "switch"? I was only aware there was the electronic parking brake motor, a cable connecting it to the EPB control module, and the module itself?

Hey all. So i wanted to throw out an issue that I noticed since i bought my Audi recently. So i bought this from a small local dealer. Took it to an independent shop to check out and looks like it had a Parking Brake Warning/Malfunction light on it after they took it for some drives and checked it. The dealer replaced all the brakes on the car and said that they "fixed" or adjusted it or something and the warning went away. I haven't tested the parking brake, but it's not dragging or making any weird noises, so that's good news at least. However, it just came back on after about 4 months of having the car and driving it around. I put my bluedriver odb2 scan tool on it and found a couple codes that look like they're related, and i've only done a little bit of preliminary research into them. I'm going to attach the photo below in a link, but the codes seem to point to a communication error, which sounds like it may be something with the wiring going to the parking brake assembly itself. I found a website describing a similar issue here: https://www.fluidmotorunion.com/parking-brake-malfunction/ Seems kind of similar, but i'm looking for some input on if anybody has heard of this issue on the forums or had it personally. Does this seem like more of a wiring issue? Is that website correct if that's the case? And does anybody have the process on how to narrow down or troubleshoot exactly what it is? https://imgur.com/a/C8Gy00S

Hey everybody. So i bought my Audi recently and it only came with one key, so i'm trying to figure out how I can get a spare in case something happens to my current one. Or to use the spare one for testing if needed. But i'm also trying to figure out the most economical way to do it as well. From what i'm understanding, it sounds like the easiest way to do it is to buy a used key off of ebay. I saw that the board in the remote can be reprogrammed by an Audi dealer or other Audi repair shops, so that seems easy. The only thing that gets me is getting an actual blank key blade itself so it can be cut at an audi shop or dealer. I was able to find these ones, but i'm not sure if these are the exact blade for my models' remote. https://www.amazon.com/Uncut-Blade-Blank-Compatible-Volswagen/dp/B077L3Y7GM https://www.keylessentryremotefob.com/flip-key-replacement-blade-br-2005-2015-audi/ Is this process as a whole correct as far as I'm describing it? I'm not too sure, as i'm only piecing together what i've found on different forums.