Optimus

Like most ECUs, they are Mostly now all locked down under the guise of emissions, so conventional tune ups barely let you touch anything. What you need is new firmware/hardware and I’d say Syvecs is probably the best suited for VAG. Syvecs is a full standalone ECU with its own firmware and software, so you’re not fighting the factory firmware. It gives way more control over timing, fuel, boost, VVT — basically everything the OEM won’t let you touch. People even use it to run engines on completely different manufacturer platforms Mercedes engine in a Range Rover, Ferrari engine and gearbox in a Mazda the wild list goes on. It’s the only way to go twin turbo on the V10 VAG group engines. It’s not cheap, but if you want proper control on a locked ECU, it’s basically the only option for tuning and if your going to spend the money your going to go big or go home.

I have never got anything near to mid 50’s in day to day driving unless on long distance motorway trips. I usually average 42-47mpg. Mixed bag of driving dual carriage ways, towns and villages. I always leave in auto drive select and never eco.

For context what mileage and age of vehicle? though the common conception is glow plugs never need to be changed until broken this is not true from a mechanics opinion. the constant hot and cold expansion as well as metal on metal corrosion can cause them to seize in place. Rule of thumb for most cars is every 120,000km (100k miles) or 5 years to avoid large repair bills. labour can and will vary but as a rough estimate I’d expect 1-2 hours plus parts. You should never replace 1, replace all 4. it’s just common for running issues after this or the others to start playing up not long after if you don’t replace all at the same time. If they don’t come out easily expect 3-4 hours labour.

What Model year - I’ve been having a nightmare looking through used S6 savants trying to find full options and they all have FBSW but say ‘adaptive cruise control’ which i keep thinking they have it wrong. Assuming the newer models now have it with?

Are you talking about two different models here? The 50TDI is not the same as the 40TDI there has always been a software patch for the 50TDI in fact it was known to be worse until this patch for the auto boxes. The 40TDI is a manual dual clutch with automatic selector. This issue is still very much prevalent and has been no ECU/Drivetrain software updates specifically for hesitation on pull away (least I’m aware of?).

Unless the service plan is through VWFS (Volkswagen financial Services) I wouldn’t bother. the T&Cs through this service plan scheme ensure any dealer network franchise coverage as well as additional leverage to resolving complaints or defects thereafter a service. having worked in the motortrade I have sold used car service plans; you often read genuine parts and this is not always the case and I have often seen inspections and oil changes being done in 20 minutes or less. The oil gets changed but the inspection in my opinion is not the same. Main dealer networks rely on high turn over of customers in and out the doors. They pay their workshop staff bonuses based on speed not quality. echoing what others have said id personally put money away and chose an independent specialist where your get main dealer experience and better value for money, in most cases.

If the oil complies with the following specification then yes. Applies to diesel engines: Standards: VW 507 00, ACEA C3, ACEA C4 or API CK-4. All viscosity classes of these standards are allowed. 5w-30 and 0w-30 VW507 00 (low ash) oils are fine. 5w is slightly higher viscosity then 0w but both are acceptable. Audi dealerships tend to use 5w-30 for servicing as it’s cheaper per barrel. I tend to prefer oil changes being down with 5w-30 and top us 1ltr with 0w-30. Whilst it’s probably negligible difference in reality. I believe as the synthetic oil breaks down due to heat and carbon deposits etc. adding low viscosity oil during top ups in between servicing I find improves overall efficiency. It’s normally towards the end of the service period where I see a drop off of mpg where it’s normally 50-56mpg I used to get around 42-47mpg with my oil top ups it’s now between 45-51mpg for the same journey/time.

Its unlikely repairs can be made, a lot of the auxillary engine parts manufacturered to acheive low emiision ratings have become so over complicated that to take it apart and recondition parts the labour to do so is two-thirds of the cost to replace it. Its intentional, car manufacturers are selling less cars today because the cost to make them has gone up. they are recouping reduction of new car sales in parts. This has been going on for the last 3 decades. Google wet timing belts.... which now seem to be going into nearly every vehicle. A rubber belt that deteriotates submerged in oil and carbon based chemicals added with heat alter the structure of the rubber belt overtime/use... They typically last long enough for the warranty to go by but not much longer.

Personally id close the post entirely should anyone genuinely wish to sell a vehicle the best place to do so is using the appropriate market places in which provide buyer and seller protection at their own risk....

expensive car cheap windscreen - sounds about right

Hi all, i do a lot of motorway mileage in my A6 and covered combined between current and previous A6 around 50k miles. one thing that screams out to me is how unlucky I am with stones and debris hitting the windscreen. My previous A6 C8 I had a new windscreen due to a chip manifesting into a crack on impact and the screen being replaced. My current has had 2 chips one repaired but seems to be cracking and the 2nd chip centrally in the screen crack on impact. Is it the angle of the windscreen prone to slight impact damage or is it the way in which they are made they just seem to have barely any resilience to impact damage. for comparison my 20212 VW Passat had well over a 100k miles and never had to replace the windscreen for cracks and I had probably around 4 stones lobbed that left damaged (the sound was like being shot at) and 3 that skimmed and left only a small dent in the glass. I've drawn conclusions that its either; - design (elevation of glass) - product quality (poor lamination?) - bad luck? For sanity reasons I’m just curious what others have experienced in all my cars I’ve owned I’ve only ever had to replace 5 windscreens and 2 of those are for this model of vehicle.

Not to be captain hindsight here but this is due to lack of awareness from the garage in hand. They could of instead of saying seized as a reason for failure could of said bearing failure. Pump bearings fail which cause the seal to perish which causes loss of fluid which then works its way into the bearing casing and causes the seizing or binding of moving components from rust. the reason for failure is the aftermath of the initial failure which was the bearings; Which would have been covered under the extended warranty IF the mileage was under 100k or before the due date for camblet change mileage/time (this is common for most typical extended warranty policies). I used to work in the motortrade and if you have someone looking out for the customer, which i always tried....READ the small print on their behalf. This would be lazy service on their part or it may be the warranty rates for being paid for the part and labour were terrible and they just didnt want to be of service.

Hi everyone i have got a rather irritating sound from the engine bay. It is not always present or audiable and can be replicated but isnt consistent in loudness or tone or at all during replication. This sound that i can describe as air passing through a plastic cylinder or being squeezed through. Similar to when you are pumping up an air bed and the air is forced through makes this bird like noise. It can be replicated only by pulling away under acceleration. - hard throttle, moderate throttle or little throttle replicates the sound but varies in its pitch and loudness. When turning and pulling away it seems to be louder irrespective of the throttle applied. It sounds like a vacuum or air leak, but i cant seem to replicate this when idle and engine bay up its literally when pulling away. this has been a quirk on my car for a while i think even from being purchased, however its actually got worse now, i wonder if anytone elses car does the same thing? Car spec 2024 40TDi Quattro Black Edition

Just to update In true fashion, I had it booked in just before Christmas and it stopped doing its thing right before booking in. it was up on the ramp and it was looked at but didn’t seem to be making any noises at all. it could have been stone in the brake disc/heat shield. It could of been the electronic hand brake not fully disengaging. they lubriated the handbrake cable mechanisms and said to monitor. i now have another issue, but that is another thread…

Glad to hear, just to add. I haven’t topped mine up with oil since 18k I’m now on 25k I literally checked today and it’s just under half way down. I added maybe around 100ml or so and back up just under full line level. It could also be that from factory/ pre delivery inspection/top up the oil wasn’t at the full or even over half way. This could also happen after oil change service.