Optimus

Not to be captain hindsight here but this is due to lack of awareness from the garage in hand. They could of instead of saying seized as a reason for failure could of said bearing failure. Pump bearings fail which cause the seal to perish which causes loss of fluid which then works its way into the bearing casing and causes the seizing or binding of moving components from rust. the reason for failure is the aftermath of the initial failure which was the bearings; Which would have been covered under the extended warranty IF the mileage was under 100k or before the due date for camblet change mileage/time (this is common for most typical extended warranty policies). I used to work in the motortrade and if you have someone looking out for the customer, which i always tried....READ the small print on their behalf. This would be lazy service on their part or it may be the warranty rates for being paid for the part and labour were terrible and they just didnt want to be of service.

Hi everyone i have got a rather irritating sound from the engine bay. It is not always present or audiable and can be replicated but isnt consistent in loudness or tone or at all during replication. This sound that i can describe as air passing through a plastic cylinder or being squeezed through. Similar to when you are pumping up an air bed and the air is forced through makes this bird like noise. It can be replicated only by pulling away under acceleration. - hard throttle, moderate throttle or little throttle replicates the sound but varies in its pitch and loudness. When turning and pulling away it seems to be louder irrespective of the throttle applied. It sounds like a vacuum or air leak, but i cant seem to replicate this when idle and engine bay up its literally when pulling away. this has been a quirk on my car for a while i think even from being purchased, however its actually got worse now, i wonder if anytone elses car does the same thing? Car spec 2024 40TDi Quattro Black Edition

Just to update In true fashion, I had it booked in just before Christmas and it stopped doing its thing right before booking in. it was up on the ramp and it was looked at but didn’t seem to be making any noises at all. it could have been stone in the brake disc/heat shield. It could of been the electronic hand brake not fully disengaging. they lubriated the handbrake cable mechanisms and said to monitor. i now have another issue, but that is another thread…

Glad to hear, just to add. I haven’t topped mine up with oil since 18k I’m now on 25k I literally checked today and it’s just under half way down. I added maybe around 100ml or so and back up just under full line level. It could also be that from factory/ pre delivery inspection/top up the oil wasn’t at the full or even over half way. This could also happen after oil change service.

I’m really disappointed as my order has been suspended and now cancelled by Audi. It was due for delivery March 2025. This was due to shortage of engine blocks. They were supposedly meant to have honoured my order given they have suspended production but it appears it won’t be completed. Gutted! Im looking at used cars but I wanted white with Vorsprung spec. My take on the German estates is as follows, though if there is anything to take from this review/comparison I’m very much an iPhone man when it comes to cars with spec and tricks. Keep it simple. If I have to deep dive menus to turn something on or off it becomes too complicated to just get in and drive. The E class, which came in close 2nd- great engine and transmission, probably the best in terms of overall performance and pick up. it looks very smart and subtle externally. However the interior and cockpit was tacky infotainment was crap and I felt the price tag with the options was overpriced. I think the spec I was looking at was well over £80k. i looked at the BMW 5 series tourer which came last - again great gearbox and engine,it was a serious drivers car by far the most exciting diesel to drive. i took issue with the fact the suspension was always firm and as a daily driver it was too ‘pure’. Option wise tallying up the extras was annoying the interior wasn’t comfortable or sound proofing wasn’t great compared to the other 2. i went with the A6 avant 50TDi initially but this was between model changes 2022-2023 and my order before arriving in the UK succumbed to the flooding in Germany in transit. I had to order again but this time it was a MY24 not 22/23 which meant the only model available was the 40TDi. which hasn’t got any guts in it. So I looked at the hybrid and it felt heavy and clunky and the electric cut in and out was terrible not to mention the range claimed was fictional at best. i still stand and say look wise and interior Audi estates/saloons are way better. The only criticism is that they probably could do with a few more customisation options with regards to the colour and fabric/finishes of the interior. It’s fairly limited. arguably the 50TDi is the better engine for these cars. The S6 initially wasn’t my first choice because I felt the power for the v6 diesel was enough for daily driving the only reason Im in the market for the the S6 was that it probably would hold its value in resale as an estate version in The UK post decline of diesel sales as a desired car there is less of them on the road compared with the RS6. Potentially making it iconic being that they are/were so unpopular of the time being that the previous pedigree had been milder v8 petrol engines.

Hi all, recording this as a current problem in my MY23 Avant TDI40 Quattro. Currently become an issue when reversing at low speeds car has covered 19k miles. Non-obvious symptoms other than someone pointing this out to me in the car park. I can’t hear it in the cabin but it’s coming from the rear of the car not the front. It’s replicated by going forward and selecting reverse and throttle. sound is a distinct crunch/grinding sound only at low speed after selecting reverse. further input after taking it in for diagnosis at main dealer.

I’m assuming from the fault codes this is 7 speed DSG gearbox? if that’s a yes, could be anything. best get it booked in with VAG specialist. common problems are service related and firmware related. When you get to 80k miles you can expect to see wear and tear on clutch packs resulting in communication errors with slippages and coming out of gear and the control unit having a hissy fit.

Even in closed systems low tension oil evaporation takes place when it becomes a gaseous state and be deposited else around the vacuum pipes/inlet manifold etc. evaporation is a thing even in closed systems I won’t go into too much detail but F1 engines burn through oil like crazy something like 3-5litres per race setup. The reason why I draw this comparison is that they specifically use low tension oil types similar to modern emission friendly cars to create less drag on movement parts and increase efficiency. whilst I understand the f1 engines are operating constantly at high rpm and temperature. If you are doing motorway mileages frequently you could be burning off a litre of oil every few thousand miles. i have added 5litres of oil since 0 miles. My TDi 40 A6 has done 17568 miles (28273km) and is 14 months old. Roughly about 40% of my driving time is sat at 60mph+. Journey times averaging 56mins.

https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Miscellaneous/242/what-causes-oil-burning-and-oil-consumption/400#:~:text=Oil burns when at its,valve stems%2C seals and guides. very useful thread about oil usage and degradation. But yes all oil including synthetic evaporates!

My experience working for main dealer and dealing with this issue/concern was that from a technical aspect adding oil for new cars under 6k miles every 2k miles was normal. After 6k miles it seemed to be less of an issue until vehicles got to 80k plus (wear and tear) what I was summarising was that you have a situation where it seemed to be normal expected then it was unusual then expected depending on use age and wear and tear. new vehicles though bedded in at factory to a degree always use more oil then after say 20k miles. the additional point I was making was that the oil in these vehicles is very very thin high viscosity and easily evaporates so factoring this in with usage those who do motorway miles (sustained temperatures) experience higher degradation of oil and suffer the most with oil loss. it is normal to expect to be putting oil in every so often but not if is less as quoted above. the difference between petrol and diesel oil consumption is significant. diesel’s will use more oil then petrol as i understand oil is difference grade and running (internal combustion) temperatures are different. therefor using petrol engines by comparison should be disregarded. The oil consumption is concerning but it is from my experience normal across the board. where it’s more concerning is the difference between extended use and short term use because it seems this is where most people are complaining where there is instances of 3000 mile or less topping up 1 litre of oil as a result of the warning indicator.

I add roughly a litre every 2k-3k miles. I do a lot of motorway miles this is normal to a degree. The oil is very very thin, it’s less durable because of its viscosity. Therefore it burns and evaporates far easier. oil loss is as a result of the above. It’s normal on modern vehicles compared to 10 years ago. new vehicles will burn oil as things settle in piston and cylinder liners including o-rings. Id say this is normal for a new car it wouldn’t be normal after 6k miles to burning through 1litre every 1000-2000 miles what ever the usage.

Wiring loom, battery bank, additional control units etc. I don’t know precise weight but you’d be surprised how heavy wiring looms can be 5kg-45kg

The battery does not provide any propulsion to the drivetrain what’s so ever. it is in function start stop with additional coasting features where the engine will shut off coming to a stop or during a moderate decline whilst descending down a road. I’ll be brutally honest having clocked now over 30k miles in mine. Unless you drive the vehicle in a manner where you are chasing high mpg and progress is not real progress (holding traffic at round abouts) your real world mpg is like mid 40s for a 73 litre tank capacity. the system is a complete gimmick and I’d rather remove the weight and faff of it all o save a 100+kgs.

This has been repaired by the dealer. Im conducting my own drives and reviews to provide feedback whether this has positively effected the mpg and drive of the car.

further update Pump still on back order average combined mpg is 30mpg, struggles to get over 45mpg on a long distance drive. car has broken down several times but each time can be reset by turning the car off and on again. Audi customer care washed their hands of any provision of hire car or expediting the repair process stating my car still drives. VERY poor service experience so far. The car is 1 year old as of this post. 12,789 miles.

ESP systems use the rear brakes are often to help cornering and turning was exactly the same on all my previous saloons and estates.

Hi all, im not looking for assistance im logging my warranty issue here for those who may have a similar issue for assistance/ diagnosis. vehicle effected: MY2023 40 TDi Quattro, 10,127 miles. symptom: vehicle displays drive system fault randomly at no given reason performing attribute causing vehicle to go into limp mode. Turning the car off and on again resolves limp mode. Extremely poor MPG (average 34mpg combined driving). Cause Fault codes: relate to air mass flow sensor recording incorrect parameters causing vehicle to go into limp mode. (Code to follow) additional fault code: relate to ‘reductant System’ ad-blu pump flow rate too low or ineffective. diagnosis verdict: warranty claim, replacement mass air flow sensor and pump. Concern is the car is trying to compensate for emissions out the exhaust as a result causing the air intake parameters to adjust outside of the required normal numbers. For good measure the dealership has decided to replace both as the indication for the air sensor has been two occasions where the car has broken down as a result of this fault code (recorded by Audi assist).

I actually looked at both the Mercedes E350d and the BMW 530d. I felt that the E350d was too comfortable ride for me, lacking any form excitement when you wanted to push it round corners everything felt too balanced and too forgiving you didn’t notice the torque at all you’d look down and you were travelling at speed but none of the thrills. The BMW was the polar opposite feeling like my imaginary daily commute was via the Nurburgring and if you let off and tried to drive in comfort it wasn’t really and you only had to think of touching the throttle and it wanted to take off like a rocket again which became irritating quite quickly into my test drive. I believe so, my spec sheet says ‘HD matrix headlights with dynamic front and rear lights’ Interesting, my current MY23 black edition has matrix headlights, however looking at the spec sheet for MY24 they don’t seem to have them in specification and now only available for Vorsprung/RS model.

Excellent, thank you for contributing your direct comparisons. is there any other not so immediate and obvious perks with the air suspension? the sales chap was guiding me around an RS6 being the closest he could demonstrate and mentioned that in dynamic mode it will lower the suspension slightly and also has adaptive ride height. Is this the same for the Vorsprung S6? Does the car feel like it’s a 2.5t car with this air suspension or more agile? I noted in the courtesy car I was given 2020 TDI 50 I drove with the s suspension with damper control it felt like it gripped well but felt heavy and some what unresponsive going over bumps in the road sort of like the older models of range rover sport where the weight shifted and you felt the suspension stiffen up with a little body roll but otherwise you’d have to lift off the throttle to shift the weight back onto the front of the chassis for the feedback when taking a tight corner or bend with a mild gradient spiritedly. Wasn’t quite the directness I was hoping for in a saloon/estate Quattro. having said that the RS6 seem to have this addressed.

I’ve just placed an order, I haven’t been overly happy in my MY23 A6 Avant Quattro. Simply lacks the progressive powertrain with the 4 cylinder diesel. I’m not looking for petrol as I use this vehicle for long commutes for work. I did test drive the MY24 TFSI 50 hybrid and felt the car was heavy and dragged whilst on motorway and was not impressed with the mpg. i test drove a MY23 s7 diesel which shares the same powertrain? and was exactly what was expecting. presently the build times for the S6 are 8-14 months and it’s likely due to diesel engines, particularly those with large capacity coming to an end. With this I mind it sort of cemented my purchase thinking there is literally 97 supplied/ordered in the last 12 months in the UK market and these may soon stop entirely and could be a far more rare almost iconic sort after car in the not so distant future given that the RS6 is double that of the S6 orders. i was curious to know whether the Vorsprung is worth its price, notably the only significant difference is that it shares similarities with the RS6 chassis with 4 wheel steering and adjustable air suspension for off road and sports mode. I wanted to get some owners feedback, I have 3 months to decide on my end specification (presently it is the Vorsprung model).

not presently. The parts are no. Refundable. you are looking at around £800 in parts and if you have parking sensors, camera and radar you will need to pay for calibration of which is around £600 but this may vary from dealer to dealer.

Mine does this from time to time. It seems to me this is relative to a safety system not a mechanical issue. The handle of the door releases the latch but not the lock. So on pulling the latch is released but the lock doesn’t. if you pull the lever in less of a rush I find myself not having to pull twice. you can try some self diagnosis. fault find 1: step 1 put the car in park and hand break applied. step 2 open the door if the car does not release the lock on first pull. There potentially is a fault. Fault find 2: step 1 apply brake pedal, put vehicle into drive/neutral. step 2 open the door, if the car does not immediately open on 1st pull, check if the car is in park, and handbrake applied if so pull again if it releases this means the car prevented you from leaving whilst in drive and changed, in which during that time ensured you remained in the vehicle until it had prevented the car from moving. if it did not/did go into park and handbrake applied but won’t open it means there is a fault requiring further diagnosis.

those error messages are in fact a frequent thing and it comes down to the sensitivity of your settings (radar, collision assist etc). You can adjust your settings to pick up far less in the realms or items vs distance but not recommended. FYI the car records loss of vision or detection as faults and stay logged until removed. I recently had Audi assist come out for something else related I had 136 codes stored and following that CAM bus errors because of how many were stored. I was politely reminded that these issues have become a common issue causing modules to slow down or self fault due to bus memory being clogged with error codes. from time to time it’s recommended to review and clear. Ideally around service intervals. You’d think your main dealer would do this as part of their service but they don’t and leave them…

I have contacted my local dealer who went through the process of getting hold of the exploded diagrams. their verdict was that it may not fit the pre-facelift bumper/grille housing which I thought was odd given it’s the same relative size and location as before.

Hi all, on the way home tonight I hit an unfortunate large bird. I popped the bumper and trims back into place, bumper doesn’t seem to align quite how it should but does anyone know whether these are easy to self install? I’ll be ordering the parts tomorrow from my local main dealer.