Optimus

I’m assuming from the fault codes this is 7 speed DSG gearbox? if that’s a yes, could be anything. best get it booked in with VAG specialist. common problems are service related and firmware related. When you get to 80k miles you can expect to see wear and tear on clutch packs resulting in communication errors with slippages and coming out of gear and the control unit having a hissy fit.

Even in closed systems low tension oil evaporation takes place when it becomes a gaseous state and be deposited else around the vacuum pipes/inlet manifold etc. evaporation is a thing even in closed systems I won’t go into too much detail but F1 engines burn through oil like crazy something like 3-5litres per race setup. The reason why I draw this comparison is that they specifically use low tension oil types similar to modern emission friendly cars to create less drag on movement parts and increase efficiency. whilst I understand the f1 engines are operating constantly at high rpm and temperature. If you are doing motorway mileages frequently you could be burning off a litre of oil every few thousand miles. i have added 5litres of oil since 0 miles. My TDi 40 A6 has done 17568 miles (28273km) and is 14 months old. Roughly about 40% of my driving time is sat at 60mph+. Journey times averaging 56mins.

https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Miscellaneous/242/what-causes-oil-burning-and-oil-consumption/400#:~:text=Oil burns when at its,valve stems%2C seals and guides. very useful thread about oil usage and degradation. But yes all oil including synthetic evaporates!

My experience working for main dealer and dealing with this issue/concern was that from a technical aspect adding oil for new cars under 6k miles every 2k miles was normal. After 6k miles it seemed to be less of an issue until vehicles got to 80k plus (wear and tear) what I was summarising was that you have a situation where it seemed to be normal expected then it was unusual then expected depending on use age and wear and tear. new vehicles though bedded in at factory to a degree always use more oil then after say 20k miles. the additional point I was making was that the oil in these vehicles is very very thin high viscosity and easily evaporates so factoring this in with usage those who do motorway miles (sustained temperatures) experience higher degradation of oil and suffer the most with oil loss. it is normal to expect to be putting oil in every so often but not if is less as quoted above. the difference between petrol and diesel oil consumption is significant. diesel’s will use more oil then petrol as i understand oil is difference grade and running (internal combustion) temperatures are different. therefor using petrol engines by comparison should be disregarded. The oil consumption is concerning but it is from my experience normal across the board. where it’s more concerning is the difference between extended use and short term use because it seems this is where most people are complaining where there is instances of 3000 mile or less topping up 1 litre of oil as a result of the warning indicator.

I add roughly a litre every 2k-3k miles. I do a lot of motorway miles this is normal to a degree. The oil is very very thin, it’s less durable because of its viscosity. Therefore it burns and evaporates far easier. oil loss is as a result of the above. It’s normal on modern vehicles compared to 10 years ago. new vehicles will burn oil as things settle in piston and cylinder liners including o-rings. Id say this is normal for a new car it wouldn’t be normal after 6k miles to burning through 1litre every 1000-2000 miles what ever the usage.

Wiring loom, battery bank, additional control units etc. I don’t know precise weight but you’d be surprised how heavy wiring looms can be 5kg-45kg

The battery does not provide any propulsion to the drivetrain what’s so ever. it is in function start stop with additional coasting features where the engine will shut off coming to a stop or during a moderate decline whilst descending down a road. I’ll be brutally honest having clocked now over 30k miles in mine. Unless you drive the vehicle in a manner where you are chasing high mpg and progress is not real progress (holding traffic at round abouts) your real world mpg is like mid 40s for a 73 litre tank capacity. the system is a complete gimmick and I’d rather remove the weight and faff of it all o save a 100+kgs.

This has been repaired by the dealer. Im conducting my own drives and reviews to provide feedback whether this has positively effected the mpg and drive of the car.

further update Pump still on back order average combined mpg is 30mpg, struggles to get over 45mpg on a long distance drive. car has broken down several times but each time can be reset by turning the car off and on again. Audi customer care washed their hands of any provision of hire car or expediting the repair process stating my car still drives. VERY poor service experience so far. The car is 1 year old as of this post. 12,789 miles.

ESP systems use the rear brakes are often to help cornering and turning was exactly the same on all my previous saloons and estates.

Hi all, im not looking for assistance im logging my warranty issue here for those who may have a similar issue for assistance/ diagnosis. vehicle effected: MY2023 40 TDi Quattro, 10,127 miles. symptom: vehicle displays drive system fault randomly at no given reason performing attribute causing vehicle to go into limp mode. Turning the car off and on again resolves limp mode. Extremely poor MPG (average 34mpg combined driving). Cause Fault codes: relate to air mass flow sensor recording incorrect parameters causing vehicle to go into limp mode. (Code to follow) additional fault code: relate to ‘reductant System’ ad-blu pump flow rate too low or ineffective. diagnosis verdict: warranty claim, replacement mass air flow sensor and pump. Concern is the car is trying to compensate for emissions out the exhaust as a result causing the air intake parameters to adjust outside of the required normal numbers. For good measure the dealership has decided to replace both as the indication for the air sensor has been two occasions where the car has broken down as a result of this fault code (recorded by Audi assist).

I actually looked at both the Mercedes E350d and the BMW 530d. I felt that the E350d was too comfortable ride for me, lacking any form excitement when you wanted to push it round corners everything felt too balanced and too forgiving you didn’t notice the torque at all you’d look down and you were travelling at speed but none of the thrills. The BMW was the polar opposite feeling like my imaginary daily commute was via the Nurburgring and if you let off and tried to drive in comfort it wasn’t really and you only had to think of touching the throttle and it wanted to take off like a rocket again which became irritating quite quickly into my test drive. I believe so, my spec sheet says ‘HD matrix headlights with dynamic front and rear lights’ Interesting, my current MY23 black edition has matrix headlights, however looking at the spec sheet for MY24 they don’t seem to have them in specification and now only available for Vorsprung/RS model.

Excellent, thank you for contributing your direct comparisons. is there any other not so immediate and obvious perks with the air suspension? the sales chap was guiding me around an RS6 being the closest he could demonstrate and mentioned that in dynamic mode it will lower the suspension slightly and also has adaptive ride height. Is this the same for the Vorsprung S6? Does the car feel like it’s a 2.5t car with this air suspension or more agile? I noted in the courtesy car I was given 2020 TDI 50 I drove with the s suspension with damper control it felt like it gripped well but felt heavy and some what unresponsive going over bumps in the road sort of like the older models of range rover sport where the weight shifted and you felt the suspension stiffen up with a little body roll but otherwise you’d have to lift off the throttle to shift the weight back onto the front of the chassis for the feedback when taking a tight corner or bend with a mild gradient spiritedly. Wasn’t quite the directness I was hoping for in a saloon/estate Quattro. having said that the RS6 seem to have this addressed.

I’ve just placed an order, I haven’t been overly happy in my MY23 A6 Avant Quattro. Simply lacks the progressive powertrain with the 4 cylinder diesel. I’m not looking for petrol as I use this vehicle for long commutes for work. I did test drive the MY24 TFSI 50 hybrid and felt the car was heavy and dragged whilst on motorway and was not impressed with the mpg. i test drove a MY23 s7 diesel which shares the same powertrain? and was exactly what was expecting. presently the build times for the S6 are 8-14 months and it’s likely due to diesel engines, particularly those with large capacity coming to an end. With this I mind it sort of cemented my purchase thinking there is literally 97 supplied/ordered in the last 12 months in the UK market and these may soon stop entirely and could be a far more rare almost iconic sort after car in the not so distant future given that the RS6 is double that of the S6 orders. i was curious to know whether the Vorsprung is worth its price, notably the only significant difference is that it shares similarities with the RS6 chassis with 4 wheel steering and adjustable air suspension for off road and sports mode. I wanted to get some owners feedback, I have 3 months to decide on my end specification (presently it is the Vorsprung model).

not presently. The parts are no. Refundable. you are looking at around £800 in parts and if you have parking sensors, camera and radar you will need to pay for calibration of which is around £600 but this may vary from dealer to dealer.

Mine does this from time to time. It seems to me this is relative to a safety system not a mechanical issue. The handle of the door releases the latch but not the lock. So on pulling the latch is released but the lock doesn’t. if you pull the lever in less of a rush I find myself not having to pull twice. you can try some self diagnosis. fault find 1: step 1 put the car in park and hand break applied. step 2 open the door if the car does not release the lock on first pull. There potentially is a fault. Fault find 2: step 1 apply brake pedal, put vehicle into drive/neutral. step 2 open the door, if the car does not immediately open on 1st pull, check if the car is in park, and handbrake applied if so pull again if it releases this means the car prevented you from leaving whilst in drive and changed, in which during that time ensured you remained in the vehicle until it had prevented the car from moving. if it did not/did go into park and handbrake applied but won’t open it means there is a fault requiring further diagnosis.

those error messages are in fact a frequent thing and it comes down to the sensitivity of your settings (radar, collision assist etc). You can adjust your settings to pick up far less in the realms or items vs distance but not recommended. FYI the car records loss of vision or detection as faults and stay logged until removed. I recently had Audi assist come out for something else related I had 136 codes stored and following that CAM bus errors because of how many were stored. I was politely reminded that these issues have become a common issue causing modules to slow down or self fault due to bus memory being clogged with error codes. from time to time it’s recommended to review and clear. Ideally around service intervals. You’d think your main dealer would do this as part of their service but they don’t and leave them…

I have contacted my local dealer who went through the process of getting hold of the exploded diagrams. their verdict was that it may not fit the pre-facelift bumper/grille housing which I thought was odd given it’s the same relative size and location as before.

Hi all, on the way home tonight I hit an unfortunate large bird. I popped the bumper and trims back into place, bumper doesn’t seem to align quite how it should but does anyone know whether these are easy to self install? I’ll be ordering the parts tomorrow from my local main dealer.

Lots of information to digest and it’s hard to pin point exactly the issue(s) in your post. with regards to seals whether they are bead or gasket or ring. For as long as I can remember manufacturers of all makes and models have always stated that these are perishables and after a certain amount of mileage or time (typically 100k or 8+ years) these will fail and require resealing as of when identified. Bases on your description this is from my point of view considered normal wear and tear that won’t be avoidable.

The gearbox isn’t a full auto and uses an electronic control unit to effectively decide and change gears instead of mechanical linkages. in a manual car as you describe sounds like clutch drag. This happens when the clutch is not fully engaged or disengaged causing the friction plate to drag on the Fly wheel. its more prominent in lower gears when moving away or coming to a stop because the car nearly stalls in every situation causing the car to jerk forward or vibrate under load (high gear low torque). id suggest investigating the transmission clutch pack control and the associated mechanisms and control units. common wear and tear on semi-auto cars is that they often change from 1st to 2nd during a pull away too quickly at low rpm in 2nd gear. A simple issue of mild symptoms as described with engagement and disengaging of the clutch pack can then be exaggerated and made worse (wear and tear).

As an ex main dealer senior manager. There are many factors with warranty/extended warranty you should consider. whilst it is possible to maintain warranty outside of the dealer network by using 3rd parties with genuine parts. You will loose out on what is called good will. Good will is an extension to warranty that is often contributed by the manufacturer and dealership network franchisee. a car coming to the end of warranty your extend your good will cover into a 4th year when outside of warranty. Whilst you may pay for parts or labour good will is a measure of brand loyalty and can often be 100% of the cost. an example of how this works; customer services their car for the first 3 years at the same dealer franchise. within the 4th year of ownership (prior to the next due service) the engine throws a warning light. This is diagnosed at the main dealer as a fault with the oil pump. The cost of repair and diagnosis is £890.67 at the cost of the customer. The customer requests support (discount) this is raised as a goodwill claim. The manufacturer approves the claim, based on brand loyalty or other factors such as frequent servicing or customer has bought into the franchise prior (good history). The main dealer with the car on the ramp is supplied the oil pump free or charge. The customer is required to pay the labour only (£235). A lot of customers are not aware that there often are historical campaigns that are hidden with known faults or failures. These often never get issued as a recall, unless safety related or faults likely to happen within warranty periods. As a result there ste goodwill campaigns that dealers have access to which could save you a lot of money. DSG control unit for dual clutch transmission have always been an issue since day dot. Lots of campaigns. I’ve seen plenty of these replaced at 0 cost on 3-6 year old (VW, Seat, Skoda) vehicles. this is by no means saying stay with main dealers but consider whether you can carry out servicing in a format that may entitle your vehicle some goodwill outside of warranty by doing so.

have you also tried this.

Syvecs specialist in engine management and transmission management software and firmware, including the hardware. I'm not overly technical with such things but I understand the issues your describing are not the ECU but are control modules. As I understand, the control module responsible for cruise control that adjusts your speed and distance using radar will have some sort basic command prompts that will say: IF transmission speed is at ' ' check radar position distance for ' ' adjust for tolerances at ' ' This is not necessarily done by the ECU and this could be multiple control units doing each part forming part of a system, however a lot of the data sourced is likely plucked from the ECU and transmission control unit module(s) for example like traction control etc etc. Remapping these by changing numbers or characteristics in how they perform could disable or enable certain elements in your requirements. word of warning it is simply not as easy as it sounds. Speed governors were basic coding that retarded engine fuelling to inhibit the engine/transmission to go beyond a speed in which the sensor in the transmission provided in certain gears. Traditionally this was simple code or even done by detecting the throttle position (accelerator pedal position) that just told the ECU to do something, typically reduce throttle intake position from 100% to 70% opening position when sensor A, B or C recorded x, y or z. Very easy to simply recode this to function/command prompt. A good example of early electronic limiters, I recall a colleague tried in his transit van which was limited to 60mph in 5th gear, however if he dropped it to 4th gear he could get 66mph. So you'd hear this thing rattling down the road on the red line just to get a mere 6mph. The particular speed governor was programmed to only consider restriction to speed when in 5th gear so the car could go over the speed limiter if it was in a lower gear. A lot of engines destroyed as a result of this when company employees realised this was possible. As modern cars have become more sophisticated and computerised so has these governors and safety systems, there are now multiple and many different factors and control units communicating with each, it is not a simple case of picking one (ECU) and reprogramming it without causing issues else where. Case and point, all VAG group cars when plugged into their respective diagnostic tools can now tell if the cars ECU has been accessed outside of the manufacturer's approved network. In some cases this has invalidated any warranty there and then if they can identify/prove that the car has been tampered or modified in any way. Whether this is true, I was told they can also see how long/miles you have driven with a warning light (oil, EML etc) which can also effect any goodwill/warranty, that's how much these car computer systems are watching and recording information.

Not that I know the answer, but I’ve never had any concern of data usage however mine is less than 3 years old. I use Apple car play which I assume is the same as android auto when I review my data usage this almost always comes out of my phone contract. If not then I have never had to worry about data usage. i recall a while ago now that most cars that used 4g had a micro SIM card with a receiver which ran any online services (map/traffic updates etc). Whether this is still the case now, (probably not) but people used to remove said SIM card and replace it with a fixed contract SIM card with data. The only thing that was disabled was the Ecall system as it required the manufacturer subscription/license.