Richard09

No it's a PDF from my Manual on the car and it's only 104Kb not sure if the file is shareable but looking under properties it is open with no restrictions ? not to sure why it's unable to load to the page. Thanks for the input.

It been a long and difficult process the UPS returned Parcel finally got delivered one month after I sent it, I finally got my credit from E-bay, looking at one thing, if you leave a review with e-bay you cannot update it, you can imagine what type of review I would have posted if I had been able too. Given the stats on Trust-pilot reviews, this company have a Injector failure rate of of 26% which is a staggering failure rate.

Car coming up to MOT Drivers side Mirror indicator light not working, I ordered some replacements from E-bay some time ago and tried to fit one them on the faulty side took off the mirror to find some one had a go previously, at trying to fit a new light as the old one was split, bit is still work right up until recently, what I found was that they had drilled out the locking screw and drilled an another hole for a screw that had disintegrated , also noted that the wiring ran thought the center of the mirror support, so could easily be damaged if I tried to drill the disintegrated one out. Did a bit of googling to find one post that said they replaced the indicator light without a complete strip down for the same reason as me. So I proceeded to take the mirror off and the screws to the motor plate and the screw at the base also the old the light, I would not say it was an easy process, a bit fiddly but it worked so if your faced with not being able to do a complete strip down the all is not lost. The one thing that made the process a bit easier was a little silicone grease on the edges of the replacement light it made the pushing into the slot to take the light nice and easy. One thing, with the replacement light it had only 5 fixings not the six that is on the original, The only really fiddly fixing is the one at the top behind the mirror post very awkward to do. I would say that this was much easier to do than I thought I think what made the difference was the silicone grease. I tried to attach a PDF of the correct instructions of fitting the light but it would not load correctly if anyone could point me in the right direction to upload this I would be greatful.

E-bay have now stepped in and will refund the cost of the injector but I am still £300 out of pocket. How they have a 99.9% positive responses on E bay considering they get 25% one star rating on TRUSTPILOT all these are for the same issues i had with there injector and the company.

Just a little info when coding in new injector the company I used the person was very knowledgeable when he used the code supplied with my new injector it would not accept it looking at the codes of the installed injectors he noticed that they all had codes with more digits than the new one I purchased, so he added zeros to the code that was supplied for the new injector, and then it accepted coding.

Thank you I just cannot com to terms with this, the trust-pilot reviews of the company are littered with injector failures and no refunds and no reimbursement cost for fitting or testing also company stopped responding to most of the reviewers mails, I also tried to leave a updated review but could not.

I had Engine management and glow plug light appear A3 50000 miles 1.6 TDi it when into limp mode got it home. Had the fault diagnosed faulty Injector cylinder one so ordered a remanufactured eBay from a company called dieselfixneuss for £195 seemed a good buy as it had 98 % positive feed back. Placed the order, they started the delivery process and then I had a further request for £30 deposit as I had to send the old one back so to get the item sent had to pay the deposit, then the delivery started I received the order about a week later this is just the start of and extremely BAD costly experience, which will now change the way I source Car spare parts. History I fitted the the injector and got it coded for £75 all seemed OK ,this is my comment on eBay about the purchase Which I cannot seem to be able to find anymore. Well the item arrived the visual appearance of the injector as illustrated there was some greasy deposits in the hole for the flexible pipe, inline securing clip, also the plastic head for electrical connections was a bit battered and worn showing or indicating the age of the refurbished component to such an extent that it was difficult to see the code required to set up the unit see photograph. But later found out that it had been recoded. So after cleaning the unit trying to get all of this greasy deposits out of the injector inlet. A fine start which I should have had an inkling that all was not as good as I EXPECTED !!! This proved to be only the tip of the Iceberg , this is not in use as a main car A3 Cabriolet use on high days and holidays, we were out driving and the car suddenly when into limp mode with the engine management light on we managed to get home. I got a company who specialise in at your home diagnostics would you believe injector fault in cylinder 1 this cost me £150 see photographs the shinney new one in cylinder 1 so now starts the very protracted dealings with the supplier so what's this cost me so far injector £195 coding £75 fault-finding £150 Total of £450 that's without the deposit which I have had back. This now starts to get a bit messy they asked me to send it back to them so THAT THEY COULD CHECK IT AT MY COST, I asked eBay to step in eventually they supplied a Returns postage label UPS, I sent it back it's now sitting in UPS warehouse in Germany and has not moved in two weeks I have had to chase the supplier as well as UPS to tray and move things on, even eBay got there wires crossed and really did not know what was actually going on. I could not see any other way out of this situation which I could see going on for many weeks, so I had to buy a new injector in the UK managed to get one for £374 inc Vat and another £75 for the coding so what all this cost me to date which includes the original purchase and setting up as well as diagnostics the cost is £899 in total. It looks as if I might get back only the cost of the injector that if it ever delivered by UPS. I posted this as a statement of my issues, and realise that this might just be a blip, but I googled the supplier and was shocked to find quite a lot of reviews of one star on Trustpilot 25% of them, these are similar to my own experiences with them.

Wish I had taken some photographs of how I set or timed the cams in just the the cattier. I cannot be leave how simple it was to complete the process which requires a very expensive setting tool and clamp to undertake to complete this process.

I have been trying to get the mirrors off but they seem to be stuck have removed the securing bolt which should allow it to be removed but it will not come off, the instructions remove retaining screw rotate mirror forward and pull up but it seem to be stuck . Looked at U-tube videos looks so simple but will not work for me, the one side the screw has been drilled out and another screw has be fitted but second screw has lost its head so needs to be drilled out on that side. Have the Audi service manual it tell you to just remove screw 6 (located in the metal that rotates the mirror) rotate forward and pull up to remove mirror housing I have used WD 40 on the components that move but no luck tried to Removing: Instructions from manual :- Take out mirror glass prior to removal. Removing: – Unplug electrical connectors for mirror motor and mirror heating. – Tilt mirror forwards as far as it will go. – Unscrew bolt -6- at mirror base. – Lift housing off mirror base. Some u-Tube say or show you just remove mirror takeout screw 6 turn forward and pull up off mirror base. Can anyone please advise.

Update it's been a long time since the original post so I thought I would update what I did after removing the cam carrier and with all valves closed, the pressure test was not conclusive in that it passed the initial test on all cylinders but failed a repeat test, I suspected that the pressure tester was faulty. I tested it in a closed circuit and it leaked I assumed that the original test was OK and that the second failed test was due to breakdown of the of the tester. Having taken off the cam carrier the problem was cam timing setup so purchased a gig but it was impossible to accurately set them up with this bit of kit after a long process the suppliers gave me a refund after sending the unit back. What I did to time the cams:- I used the cam carrier one cam has a horizontal slot in it so I used small bit of steel and a feeler gauge to get the cam perfectly horizontal in the cam carrier I then offered up the second cam to the carrier using a long socket on a flat surface of that cam to set the indents in that cam in the complete vertical position then checking the other cam with the long socket. Having setup the cams i now fabricated a holder or cam clamp very simple two pieces of wood with four holes in each piece setting the strips of wood so they would not inter fear with the installation I passed two medium cable ties through each piece of wood so that they secured the cams to the the carrier (My Cam Holder Gig). It worked flawlessly. My TT back on the road and running well.

Sorry repeated the presser test quote.

As I said in the post the cam belt looked in perfect condition and appeared to have been replaced which is gut wrenching, I have a full manual for Audi all models e-manual but do not know the gearbox type, choice of , KXY M 02Q1, MTZ D 02E8, NFM M 02Q1, NJD D 02E8. NMC D 02E8, PBW D 02E8, PQS D 02E8, Final Drive Choice of MMK AH OBR1, NML AH OBR1, PYH AH OBR1, I cannot find any information about this as entering these into the spec for the manual will bring up the specific workshop manual for the car, which would answer my question. Did a pressure test and had leaking valves so there is damage to the valves.

Bit of a story:- Stopped at the traffic lights the car stalled and could not start the 2012 TT has only done 60K had to call breakdown assistance my first thought cam belt but the man opened the top portion of the cam cover and said it OK ended up getting the car transported home some 150 miles, a day later I started to look at the car, took the off side wheel off and removed the wheel arch lining to find that the V belt was fraying at the edge to such an extent that it had long strands hanging off slackened the tension er removed the belt at to cut some free of the lower pulley took off the lower pulley to find a mass of strands behind the pulley, so my mediate thought that some of this had got into the cam belt and caused it to jump, put a spanner on the flywheel bolt and it would not turn over so valves stuck on pistons. Removed the cam-belt cover to find loads of derby from the belt so this had caused the cam-belt to jump removed the cam-belt it looked in perfect condition no missing or worn teeth . Started to strip the engine down took out the twin cams injectors and turned the engine over by hand free movement, next did a leakage test all cylinders leaked put camera down the glow plugs and all piston heads have valve marks, as I was not traveling at any speed just stalled the car cannot quite understand the marks on all piston heads, other than the breakdown Guy putting his heavy duty jump stat on in the engine compartment and turning it over quite quickly. Getting the cylinder head off is this a different because it a Quattro not sure if i am looking at the right model it seems that unbolting the exhaust manifold the exhaust recalculation pipes I am abbreviating the procedure a bit,does the quattro drive add a complication to this process as i cannot see any mention of that in the process i have. Could anybody please help.