GrimleyQ7

Totally understandable. Hopefully I can get the rears off ok without stripping the heads 🤞🏻 Thanks for your input. Chris

Hi Magnet. Just to make it easier to remove in future. Those XZN head bolts seem bizarre to me and susceptible to rusting inside the splines, when a hex head will do the job just as well. Was just a thought. Thanks. Chris.

I run 22" wheels and have 285/35 tyres fitted which I sourced on Oponeo. Nice tread pattern and good grip to wear ratio. I can't remember the make/model and it's dark out now but I think they are Nexen Most online tyre suppliers have a budget, mid-range and stupidly expensive range. I went mid-range and they were less than £200 each. HTH. Chris

Hi Zed I replaced my drivers door window reg too and it did exactly the same thing. I used a bit of silicon lube spray on the regulator tracks inside the door (yes, had to remove it, spray it and re-fit it) and that sorted it out. Hope that helps (if not already sorted in the 2 months). Cheers. Chris.

Hi All I need to change my rear discs too (along with new pads and periphery) and I have ordered said XZN 16mm bit (waiting for it to arrive) for the removal of the caliper bolts but I'm thinking of replacing the bolts with standard hex head flange bolts size M14x1.50x40mm, 10.9 hardness, high tensile. Has anyone done this before? Thanks in advance. Chris.

Hi Dillon Yes I did. I purchased a pressure fill system off eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392977805026?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Q8qYiOZhQS6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7fjf4C9SSKa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Chris.

Hi Luke. Yes I did and I managed to get the change done without any major issues. The fill plug needs a 17mm hex bit socket or big allen key. I had to use a breaker bar to get mine undone as it felt like it was welded in!! The other awkward bit is the bolts on the sump pan that are above the cross member. These need a UJ on a rachet or one of those wobbly type rachet extensions. I replaced all the sump bolts and wavy washers with stainless steel. I also had new drain & fill plugs with their respective o-rings and washers. Hope that helps. Cheers. Chris.

Cheers Gareth. A lesson I learned many years ago with an old Range Rover. Anyhoo, I have found a picture of the gearbox sump on my Q7 as as you can see, large allen head fill plug, small torx (on this photo) drain plug. I know I'm just going to have to measure it and then track down some big Allen keys. I think it's an M30 thread so it's possible it could be around a 20mm key needed.

Thanks for the reply Steve. I have watched that video already and the drain / fill system on that 2011 model is different to my 2007. My transmission oil pan has separate plugs for drain and fill. Drain on the nearside and fill on the offside. The fill plug being a large allen head plug and the drain being a 5mm allen head similar to the video. Also, the filter is different to the video too. The principal however is the same. Thanks. Chris.

I had this issue with my 2007 3.0 TDi. Diag scans showed nothing. Would run fine when cold but then when warm (normal middle of the gauge temp) it would just cut out for no apparent reason. It wouldn't restart until the engine was cool again. When trying, it would turn over for a few seconds then stop. Sometimes it refused to start even then and had to be coaxed with easy start. I took it to a electrical and sensor specialist who tracked it down to the crank sensor. He left it running with his diagnostic machine attached and when it cut out it threw up some weird code that he said wasn't an Audi code, hence the Audi diags didn't detect it. Had that replaced and it's been spot on and running a lot smoother since. One thing I did notice, when it had cut out and I tried to restart, the rev counter did not move and it wouldn't start. When cooled, the rev counter would jump a little on crank then I knew it would start and this is what led me to think crank sensor. No crank sensor signal means no injectors firing. Hope that helps Chris.

Hello all. New member looking for advice regarding my Q7 and changing the transmission fluid. I have purchased the fluid (Dexron 3 ATF), the filter kit with gasket, the fluid pump and adaptor nozzles. I'm a pretty competent DIY'er and this weekend changed the engine oil & filter, diffs and transfer case oils, serpentine belt & tensioner, cabin, air and fuel filters. All done on the driveway without a ramp. Suspension on lift and a lot of writhing around on the floor. However, I came to do the transmission fluid and hit a stumbling block... The fill plug in the 6 speed 'box looks to need some huge allen key to remove it, or some Audi specialist tool. I'm guessing it's about 20-25mm without measuring. Does anyone know where I can find such a tool? As I don't want to end up stripping it out and causing a whole world of pain. I can't seem to find any info on the tool needed to remove the fill plug despite hours of searching the internet. All advice is gratefully accepted. Thanks & regards. Chris.