AnIdiotAboard

07 car, so you got the same key as me. Make 100% sure the batterys in correctly. The LED will still flash even if battery is not installed correctly, start there, i had this after i lost keys and had to have new keys made, they refused to open the car, then one day i stuck new batterys in desperation and they worked a charm after they, they shouldnt need re-syncing. You can see if they need re-sync by starting the car, it will say SAFE in the clock if the key is not presenting valid data to the barrel

On mine, if the light unit covers are not fitted correctly water gets in, and you get steam. On mine Under the bonnet the back of the lights should have covers, if there missing you have your answer.

Having done a few A3's now buy them in with blown turbos, repair, and back out the door, i've got one with symptoms i can not work out on my own, im no mechanic, i just got bored during lockdown and carried on since. DTC Codes: 1 - Mass air flow performance problem Symptoms: Intermittent very low power car will accelerate slowly, usually dip the clutch and try again it pulls away no problem Inconsistent throttle response, you breath on it in the morning its a rocket ship, then in the afternoon you mash it into the carpet and its just mehhhh Asthmatic on occasions, will pull cleanly to about 2500 rpm, and just fall on its face like its all out of puff, lift the throttle and re-apply it will scream of for the redline. Intermittent sound that i can only describe as ping ping ping ping ping ping, left side of engine bay only here it under load between 2000 and 2400 rpm Occasionally Smokes on startup and when i say smokes i mean 200 in one blue puff, but its very occasional like maybe 1 in 100 starts. MIL Light flashes now and then usually on the overrun (google suggests a missfire warning, but not sure) Parts already changed, for the most part there new or modifications Turbo Core - Excessive end float, but no housing damage. VG Controller / Actuator - Orig was only offering 25 to 55% range EGR - Total Delete asin, cooler, pipes the works, gone. It came in with more holes than a tea bag and leaking would have been an understatement New Charge side soft pipes, smoke testing reveals no leaks. Throttle Pedal Outside Air Temp Sensor 2 ABS Sensors 1 x DMF / Clutch N112 Secondary Air Injection Valve Its a lovely little car, its straight and clean for the most part, might be 17 years old but shes been looked after and just 120,000 miles on the clock, would like to give this to my eldest if i can work out what im missing here (time to graduate from 1000cc fiesta) . I did have a good look with vag com etc, injectors all run nicely, with 0 deviation at idle, commanded and actual pressures look good over a wide range of revs, although it does seem to me to be just a little (3 psi maybe low upto about 1800rpm) it takes a moment to build up to 10psi, then 10 to 22psi comes up like you flicked a switch. Any suggestions on where to look, love working on these things, be nice to save it from the scrap yard

www youtube com / @YTDTETV <-- Hes based in Kent not far from me, he MAY be able to help you out in terms of sourcing Another one to reach out to might be, Salvage Rebuilds UK also on youtube. DTE-TV managed to point me in the right direction for some parts for my A6 Just a thought

Having got my A3 sorted and running and driving nice, and maxed it at brands, ive loved every min of driving it, despite its age and mileage. Comming down the motorway all im gonna say is i was flying, i saw in the distances 3 small animals, before i had a chance to do anything id hit one, ever since my OAT Sensor has stopped working, or reporting -45c all the time. Ive had the front of, Bumpers, Rads, Intercoolers, Crash Bar, Headlights, Wheel Liners. Had to replace the intercooler as the passenger side lower boost pipe and snapped clean out of it, BUT Do you think i can find the OAT? Can i heck, i found what i assume is the clip for it, where it should be, leaving me to believe the sensor was ripped out and snapped off the harness in the progress. Can anyone tell me, where the sensor would go into the harness, i had assumed it would go in with the pressure / temp sensors from Intercooler and rads etc, but i cant find any evidience of it. So anyone know where it should go into the harness so i can repair it? This weather and no AC is a misserable experiance 2006 Audi A3, 2.0 TDI "BKD" I think its an 8P, its a 5 door so maybe PA but the book says the same for 8P/A it should be behind the bumper Cheers

I got the car as a project, but on the few occasions ive had to drive it, and shes alot of fun to drive around in, given all the work ive put it, im never gonna get it back in terms of cost, so now its a maintenance game and keep it running as long as possible and service as often as i should. And im pritty lucky, this car has essentially a full audi service history with all the paperwork and bills with it, audi last touched her 2 years ago, when they did the 180,000 mile full service and a timing kit. It was the major reason i got her, she has a boatload of paperwork to go with her, just a shame the last owner failed his test 3 times and his dad sold me the car, kid didnt even have a licence and he'd had it mapped, probably for the best in the end. I just never had a car really beyond 200,000k and i plan on using her for work, so shes gonna cover serious miles, for now ill stick with the 9000 mile interval the cars asking for, but if it needs to be done more often i aint opposed to it.

Recommended service Intervals beyond 200,000 miles. Miles per month driven avg 5500, currently serviced every 6 is weeks or 9000 miles. She's just been put back together with new turbo, intercooler etc etc, would have been cheaper to buy a new engine from audi but hey hoe, I can reasonably expect her to do another 200k before death, so to hit that target what would u do, what would be the recommended service Intervals, etc. Also if you don't mind, any specific part replacements at certain miles etc? All she needs is her new dual mass and we're ready to go after 8 weeks of downtime.

honeycomb

Update Time. Shes all back together took her on a drive all went well till it didnt, no codes set. So why i had it apart we did a few other bits, oil and water pumps cos why not im in here, new timing kit, new injector seals etc etc, spent a little over £1200. Anyways, driving along, and i felt the power just go, cant explain it,, but the car was gutless like totally gutless, a quick flick of the ignition, normal service resumed. Following day under hard breaking i notice the pedal lost its feel, it worked as it should it was just hard no feel like before 2 mins later, powers gone, no boost, but oddly manifold pressure increased according to the data logger at the time the "fault" happened again no codes. Again today, twice its done it, ignition flicks on the move reset it and all is well no drama, but again the breaks were hard before the fault.... Now im guessing this isnt a boost problem, i dont believe its a map sensor or anything like that, as soon as it resets, it pulls like a freight train again, im thinking this is vacume side, somewhere, anyone care to enlighten me on likely suspects and any why im in there parts. Ive set the total budget for this at £3000, im at £1200 with £600 to spend on rubber. Cheer

Can anyone recommend a good set of tyres for her? I know its subjective, but i aint purchased tyres in years, and black circles has give me a headache. I got a budget of £500 (Not to include a spare, it actually brand new], and my PRIMARY concern is wet road performance, i live in the bottom of a valley where its invariably damp and wet, dont mind if there a bit noisy thats what the radio is for.

Had turbo off found cause of whine, no end float but exhaust side is pitted to buggery and inlet side has some nasty nasty knicks in the blades, turbo condemned and on order, along with intercooler and rest of inlet site (FULL OF OIL, cause to be investigated but we all know its shaft seals leaking, all on order total damage £600 in parts no labor costs (my time to waste) Windows fixed, broken wire on switch probably poor solder joints but all fixed none the less no parts needed. Rear child locks and door locks replaced - Scrap yard £50 for pair. Bonnet Catch - BIG HAMMER and BAR a few smacks followed by some prying and now she drops and locks. Service break binding, replaced cables and lubricated all involved parts, new rear Brembo disks and pads, callipers serviced along the way. Currently working on the dash, lots of missing signals to console, the display isnt gone, inject 12volts it all lights up, so im yet to trace the cause will report back when i work out what signals are missing or are partial (This is gonna be a fuse somewhere i think) Not sure if it has a Gearbox computer yet but scan tool fails to locate or communicate with it (Possible cause of missing signals to dash, will update with more another day

Could it be turbo, well i guess so, just because i have papers here to say its new dont make it so, i had some pipes off, theres no end float to note (yeah i know turbo needs to come out to check) and spins freely, blades themselves feel fairly smooth, no nicks or anything, but it is only at low RPM, as soon as you get over like 1100 rpm, its gone. WIndow switch in door, is there an wiring diagram for that? Some simple testing with jumpers? i got VAG Cable and software coming, wont be here till Monday though, but i should be able to confirm the switch with nothing more than jumper and a multi meter. At least i hope. Bonnet catch wont adjust UP anymore, its up as high as it will come, never really noticed before but do they wear out aswell? could it be theres enough wear on the eye to warrent replacement? Scrap yard? New. The LCD is good news, i would like that to work, i might pull that out and have a look myself (as an electrical engineer right up my ally) Thanks for the inputs, one more question for folks if at all possible, best places for Audi Parts be it new, referb, recon or second hand. Thanks folks and thank you Steve Q for youre input. I might try get some audio of the whine at low RPM im willing to bet someone will hear it and go aha i know what that is hehe

And so it will begin, first and foremost the clue is in the name folks. So i've picked up a mapped A3 2006 2.0 Tdi, "APARANTLY" producing 190 Bhp and as near as makes no difference 400 Nm. I picked the car up for scrap, a friend had it pending passing a driving test, when he failed for the millionth time, he just wanted rid, and got on a push bike, cars stood for 18 months or so (well less than 1000 miles between last 3 MOT's) and as a project it does have some faults and rattles im guessing you guys can answer for me, as i said the cars a project i need something to do with my weekends afterall. So the problems: If you have any solutions to them feel free to chip in. Over boosting to 2 bar 31.7 PSI, in second and third, you stamp on the gas, and it just launches, but the boost climbs to just over 2 bar, before dropping back to 1.5 where its pritty solid, i presume this would be normal behavor thanks to its map? Low RPM Whine, 100% sure its not the flywheel, it had a new clutch and flywheel 5 months ago, it has that kinda sound though, might just been turbo at low RPM turbo has done like 1000 miles and is brand new was installed with the map Passenger window only, will not rise from drivers side switch Rear child locks seemingly don't work Bonnet catch refuses to latch, unless you place a packet of rizzla in there and slam it that is Pulls right under harsh acceleration / big power climbs (i like in a valey, the only way out is up, 1 mile long road, you rise about 500 feet, if i maintain the speed but with say 3000rpm on the clock it pulls right, and in second and 3rd gears. Torque steer? Suspect hand break on one side is binding up, 1 disk is scored to absolute snot, and there Bembo's so not really sure what that about, ive never scored breaks like this in 20 years Traction control is seeminly useless, 2nd 3rd and 4th will all produce wheel spin under harsh acceleration, normal for a 2.0 TDi? or possible TC Failure? Driver information display, so the warning lights in it, they all work, but it dont light up and the bottom half is completely missing, i seem to be under impression i should have some data like MPG there etc, possible fuse? Knackered module? So theres all the problems, now to quell some other questions comming. Car has 182k on the clock, a FULL Audi service history every 9000 miles, a major service was done at 172k including turbo, clutch flywheel, HP Pump lift pump, timing belt and water pump. Beside the above issues and a bad drivers door (corroded seals) shes been a pleasure, she drives and pulls cleanly, and when you do poke it, you just ride that huge tourque curve. Hoping i can fix all the issues relatively cheaply, it is an 18 year old car after all, and possibly move her along, sorry Audi but im a Ford Diesel man 🙂 Thanks all, and i look forward to getting to know some of you Cheers The Idiot Aboard