FirstG

Unfortunately that will be my last post as an Audi owner as I have sold the A6 C6 in monza silver. This was my car & is currently up for sale in Hampshire. Apparently it has developed a bad fuel leak & may have to be scrapped. It was on 203k had a November 25 MOT & had a full set of tyres fitted in November. If you look closely you can see where the dealer has resprayed the rear bumper & the colour just doesn't match. Otherwise a great car. General wear & tear but generally 4 good years. Maybe I'll try a newer C8 at some point in the future. We'll see....

I don't think the musty smell is stagnant water in the car as the smell I have is only on the very odd ocasion when the AC is on cool in the summer. My carpets are bone dry all of the time. It's an AC fault for sure. The Audi AC by all accounts, is quite a complicated system. The musty smell originates from the part of the system where the refrigerant has air blown over it just before entering the cabin, the heater matrix I guess is its name? It has all kinds of germs lurking in it. When the AC is switched off by the fault it allows the air to blow over the nasty germs & enter the cabin. The "AC bomb" filters through the germs killing most but not removing the debris/crud left over which eventually does it again within a few months.

I hear the dump valve noise when it is passively regenning the dpf. I also had it when the air filter was replaced recently & the cover was not fitted back correctly.

Sounds like the AC isn't working properly. I have a similar smell, occasionally, when AC is on & the only fault I have is the air quality sensor is defective. I switch it off mostly now. I have no idea where it is to inspect it but I believe it needs eithet cleaning or replacing. The smell can be smothered with an AC bomb as previously mentioned. I'm getting rid of the car soon so it'll have to be another audi owners problem. Its cost me a small fortune recently to maintain it & get it through the last MOT. I use it for work so I need something with less miles. Possibly a Jag next...

It involves removing parts of the front end to enable better access to get to where the belt is situated. I'd find a VAG indy if I were you & let them check all the pulleys as its probably a failed pulley that has caused it.

Hi All, Does anybody know the location of the air quality sensor on a 2011 A6 C6? I have an earth fault & can't seem to find it based on info on the Internet. Much appreciated

Hi to all who read this, Firstly for clarity, the rear hubs on front wheel drives don't have the big 19mm hex bolt as there is no drive shaft. To report back on the problem, I've just finished swapping out my N/S rear hub assembly & ABS sensor. Access was good, the spline head bolts after cleaning were relatively easy to remove & the whole job was fairly simple. Surprisingly there was alot of aluminium corrosion between the aluminium hub carrier & old steel hub but with a small amount of hammering from behind it dropped off. A drill attached wire brush made light work of it. A light smearing of ceramic grease & the new hub popped back in easily. The sensor bore hole needed extra sanding to clean the corrosion but all in all a simple job really. Just like all the comments made by many it did cure the 3 issues that caused my dash to light up like a Christmas tree. Traction Control light - gone Headlight beam adjustment light - gone EPB issue light - gone EPB now works as it should

Bad news, the sensor is probably original & is fused/corroded in by the aluminium carrier/knuckle & to get it out fully will most likely destroy the magnetic ring. It going to have to be another new bearing/hub. Albeit it's a rear one this time. Has anybody done one of these on a front wheel drive? Does it have a big 19mm hex bolt or are they secured some other way? I ask because none of the online suppliers offer a big 19mm hex bolt to hold the hub together, just the 4 splined bolts that run through from the back .

It's kicked up a code 00290 rear left sensor or NSR I do believe. I'm hoping replacing it will clear it up. I've read dozens of confirmations on so many Audi forums that it cures all 3 warnings but I will admit that even though the handbrake is connected to the same electrical system, I am worried about my handbrake not working at all, except for the red light flashing when I pull the button up that is. Fingers crossed... I'll order the part now, I should have it delivered tomorrow & I'll fit it tomorrow night & report back.

I have the same or similar issue just happen. ABS, Parking brake & headlight beam adjustment lights simultaneously came on yesterday with the beeps etc. The threads I've found point to a bad ABS sensor. The only thing that I find odd in comparison to the threads I've read is that parking brake will no longer engage which is annoying. For me it follows an OS front hub replacement which had to have a new sensor fitted at the same time. My guess is it is related to this. I've ordered an OBDII scanner which reads faults as well as doing engine diagnostics, it's due for delivery tomorrow. I'll report my findings.

lol,who has been helping you out on this? There is nobody else's comment's showing...

Update, Received the modification yesterday & fitted it. Completed the task & started the car to find engine management light was still on. 😱 I could hear the flaps being operated but the EM light stayed on.🤯😡 I gave up & went to bed!! Started car this morning & lo & behold the EM light has gone out!! Finally a result...

As per the title, front OS bearing drone. I checked a few youtube videos & had a go at removing the old hub/bearing with the intention of fitting a new one, ordered from amazon at a reasonable £59.99. I got the back 2 bolts out & the front upper bolt only to find the lower front bolt was partially covered by the rather large CV joint which needs either pulling in towards the gearbox or the lower arm needs removing to allow the whole assembly to move away from the CV/ drive shaft. I could not do either, so after putting it back together it went to my local indy VAG mechanic Chris Umpleby who 2 or 3 hours later had it done. £60 per hour plus & a new wheel sensor @ £30 +VAT. It's been a bit expensive recently but still a great car.

Update, I did notice after the first cleaning exercise that the arm of the motor became difficult to begin its movement to close the flap but thought nothing of it. It springs back perfectly on its own without sticking as intended every time, which was the original fault. One of the other known general faults on this part is when it springs back to the open position it can go too far & lock in position preventing the initial movement to close, thus throwing an engine warning light at start up when it goes through the checking procedure. There's a video on YouTube showing how to fit it without removing the manifold but it's tricky & deceptively time consuming & of course you need specialy adapted, mini, ratchets to do it. As its only been 3 weeks since I took it off to do the original clean it's still fresh in my mind so I'll whip it off, apply some Mr muscle & rinse it, fit the modification & put it back on the car. It'll have to wait until next weekend but I'll report further once complete.

I have to laugh. I ended up doing it myself, I stripped it out cleaned it & put it back together. It was very satisfying & seemed resolved. I found that the swirl flap was sticking closed because of the carbon & after cleaning half of it,it was totally free. I cleamed the rest of it & I thought job done, issue resolved. One of the reasons why I did it was because the car was booked for the passenger air bag safety recall & I didn't want any engine warning lights whilst it was with Bradford Audi, the main dealers. Low & behold no issues reported by the technicians other than a tire close to its legal limit, which I was aware of & a corroded centre exhaust clamp. I picked up the keys & collected the car, started the engine & there it was, the damned yellow engine warning light. They kindly plugged it back in & there it was swirl flap issue. It was cleared & 3 days later it came back on again. I may have to take the inlet manifold off again & give it a clean with mr muscle oven cleaner & then power wash all the remaining carbon off. I'll report my results.