FirstG

It involves removing parts of the front end to enable better access to get to where the belt is situated. I'd find a VAG indy if I were you & let them check all the pulleys as its probably a failed pulley that has caused it.

Hi All, Does anybody know the location of the air quality sensor on a 2011 A6 C6? I have an earth fault & can't seem to find it based on info on the Internet. Much appreciated

Hi to all who read this, Firstly for clarity, the rear hubs on front wheel drives don't have the big 19mm hex bolt as there is no drive shaft. To report back on the problem, I've just finished swapping out my N/S rear hub assembly & ABS sensor. Access was good, the spline head bolts after cleaning were relatively easy to remove & the whole job was fairly simple. Surprisingly there was alot of aluminium corrosion between the aluminium hub carrier & old steel hub but with a small amount of hammering from behind it dropped off. A drill attached wire brush made light work of it. A light smearing of ceramic grease & the new hub popped back in easily. The sensor bore hole needed extra sanding to clean the corrosion but all in all a simple job really. Just like all the comments made by many it did cure the 3 issues that caused my dash to light up like a Christmas tree. Traction Control light - gone Headlight beam adjustment light - gone EPB issue light - gone EPB now works as it should

Bad news, the sensor is probably original & is fused/corroded in by the aluminium carrier/knuckle & to get it out fully will most likely destroy the magnetic ring. It going to have to be another new bearing/hub. Albeit it's a rear one this time. Has anybody done one of these on a front wheel drive? Does it have a big 19mm hex bolt or are they secured some other way? I ask because none of the online suppliers offer a big 19mm hex bolt to hold the hub together, just the 4 splined bolts that run through from the back .

It's kicked up a code 00290 rear left sensor or NSR I do believe. I'm hoping replacing it will clear it up. I've read dozens of confirmations on so many Audi forums that it cures all 3 warnings but I will admit that even though the handbrake is connected to the same electrical system, I am worried about my handbrake not working at all, except for the red light flashing when I pull the button up that is. Fingers crossed... I'll order the part now, I should have it delivered tomorrow & I'll fit it tomorrow night & report back.

I have the same or similar issue just happen. ABS, Parking brake & headlight beam adjustment lights simultaneously came on yesterday with the beeps etc. The threads I've found point to a bad ABS sensor. The only thing that I find odd in comparison to the threads I've read is that parking brake will no longer engage which is annoying. For me it follows an OS front hub replacement which had to have a new sensor fitted at the same time. My guess is it is related to this. I've ordered an OBDII scanner which reads faults as well as doing engine diagnostics, it's due for delivery tomorrow. I'll report my findings.

lol,who has been helping you out on this? There is nobody else's comment's showing...

Update, Received the modification yesterday & fitted it. Completed the task & started the car to find engine management light was still on. 😱 I could hear the flaps being operated but the EM light stayed on.🤯😡 I gave up & went to bed!! Started car this morning & lo & behold the EM light has gone out!! Finally a result...

As per the title, front OS bearing drone. I checked a few youtube videos & had a go at removing the old hub/bearing with the intention of fitting a new one, ordered from amazon at a reasonable £59.99. I got the back 2 bolts out & the front upper bolt only to find the lower front bolt was partially covered by the rather large CV joint which needs either pulling in towards the gearbox or the lower arm needs removing to allow the whole assembly to move away from the CV/ drive shaft. I could not do either, so after putting it back together it went to my local indy VAG mechanic Chris Umpleby who 2 or 3 hours later had it done. £60 per hour plus & a new wheel sensor @ £30 +VAT. It's been a bit expensive recently but still a great car.

Update, I did notice after the first cleaning exercise that the arm of the motor became difficult to begin its movement to close the flap but thought nothing of it. It springs back perfectly on its own without sticking as intended every time, which was the original fault. One of the other known general faults on this part is when it springs back to the open position it can go too far & lock in position preventing the initial movement to close, thus throwing an engine warning light at start up when it goes through the checking procedure. There's a video on YouTube showing how to fit it without removing the manifold but it's tricky & deceptively time consuming & of course you need specialy adapted, mini, ratchets to do it. As its only been 3 weeks since I took it off to do the original clean it's still fresh in my mind so I'll whip it off, apply some Mr muscle & rinse it, fit the modification & put it back on the car. It'll have to wait until next weekend but I'll report further once complete.

I have to laugh. I ended up doing it myself, I stripped it out cleaned it & put it back together. It was very satisfying & seemed resolved. I found that the swirl flap was sticking closed because of the carbon & after cleaning half of it,it was totally free. I cleamed the rest of it & I thought job done, issue resolved. One of the reasons why I did it was because the car was booked for the passenger air bag safety recall & I didn't want any engine warning lights whilst it was with Bradford Audi, the main dealers. Low & behold no issues reported by the technicians other than a tire close to its legal limit, which I was aware of & a corroded centre exhaust clamp. I picked up the keys & collected the car, started the engine & there it was, the damned yellow engine warning light. They kindly plugged it back in & there it was swirl flap issue. It was cleared & 3 days later it came back on again. I may have to take the inlet manifold off again & give it a clean with mr muscle oven cleaner & then power wash all the remaining carbon off. I'll report my results.

Well it's been a couple of weeks since fitting a new AC pressure sensor. I don't think it was the issue, whilst we haven't had much of a summer in West Yorkshire the AC still does not blow constantly cold air. I think it may have not been evacuated properly at the last regas. This was done through Groupon at ATS in Cleckheaton. It may be that it was done too quickly or not correctly & not enough gas was put back in. I'm gonna try find a specialist AC service mechanic to see if it can be looked at properly. I'll report back.

Pressure sensor changed, going to take it for a run & see how it performs & use it through the week for work to see if, 1 it works & 2 it works consistently in different conditions ie low speed, high speed etc. I'm thinking it may need regassing.... I will report back

I decided against stripping it myself as it involves the movement of the fuel rail. I will persuade my mechanic to strip it & refit it but I will clean it myself to save him that awful job & I can take more time & be a bit OCD. I will post my results.

Hi, Can you just block the egr pipe off into the manifold without any issues? I have the 2.0 tdi 170 engine.

Hi, Any resolution on this problem? I have just had a swirl flap motor issue develop on my 2.0tdi. I am going to strip out the inlet manifold & clean all the build up out at the weekend. I'll get the codes cleared once cleaned & put back together.

Continuing.... it tends to blow cold when out of the sunlight... I picked my son up from work yesterday evening & it blew cold continually, maybe its a faulty sunlight sensor? I can't find many threads anywhere other than 1 saying its purpose is to detect if sunshine is giving extra heat to the car & make the AC work extra harder. My AC seems to do the exact opposite!!

Hi Gareth, Yes I did think to try the pressure sensor first, an indy VAG mechanic in Manchester reckons it's the compressor. My thoughts are why would it still blow cold when the car is at a stand still? The compressor clearly works, it's almost as if it's been told to switch off especially when the car is moving at speed. Which is why I agree that the first port of call is the pressure sensor. I checked the belt area when it was running cold but could not see the compressor so I couldn't check if the clutch was stuck out. Unless of course it doesn't have a clutch, being an Audi!! I have no water in the footwells so I'm convinced the drain isn't blocked. It has to be a sensor. Does anyone know of any other sensors in the AC system that could affect it in such a way? Or add to the complexity. My last car, a SAAB 9-3 2.8T aero, had no issues with its AC & was much older, yeah it was regassed twice over the 7 years I had it, but always delivered a chill in the rare British summers we have in the north!!

Yeah..... I've been driving around in the 4 day UK summer we're currently having!!! Yes the battery charges up way faster the fan/serpentine belt runs very quietly but the AC is still very much hit & miss. Sometimes dry & cold air & then it switches to damp muggy air & the odour changes to musty & then back again to frigid air. Could it be a bad AC pressure sensor telling the compressor to switch itself off? I'm not expecting any assistance/help back as that seems to be the theme but I will update my findings. Why else do we have these forums?? I will check the fans are working when the compressor clutch engaged etc & see if I can resolve the issue without too much expense. It would be nice for some input/help from another kind helpful member who has had a similar issue. We all live with some hope for mankind!!!

Sorry for the delay in posting back. I had it regassed & it was doing the same thing. More recently I had to fit a new belt tensioner, alternator clutch pulley & belt. I think this has been causing my AC not to be fully efficient. I'll take it out tomorrow & see if the AC behaves itself consistently.

I'm following up to my own post in case anybody searches for it & needs some answers & it's polite IMO. Yet again my drive/serpentine/fan belt had an issue. It jumped off this time due to a badly failed tensioner. I took it back to my local VAG indy, Chris Umpleby, & he confirmed the tensioner had a fit & fell apart. It half chewed & subsequently threw the belt. He also diagnosed a clutch pulley on the alternator was bad. Anyway, all this was replaced & it made me wonder if the bad tensioner & the bad pulley could have an affect on the AC compressor & how consistently it works. If the belt pressure alternates from having slow to a normal amount of tension due to failed components, would the AC be hit & miss? Which in all honesty, it has been hit & miss recently. I only got the car back today & I haven't had the AC on. Hopefully the new belt, tensioner & clutch pulley will contribute to making the AC work efficiently. There is refigerent in the system because it does blow cold but I noticed when on a very recent long journey at higher speeds the AC did not blow as cold as expected. I suspect the belt was slipping causing the compressor to not engage properly?? I'll post again after I drive it for a prolonged period.

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Hi All, Does anybody know if switching out interior lights to LED's would bring up a canbus error? Thanks

I've been looking at trying to get info on DPF's & how they work on the 2.0 170 tdi. Where they are in relation to the engine & if anyone has any experience with issues but I have had very little to no joy. All the issues seem to be with the C7. I've recently changed jobs & I'm doing more miles in my C6. I've noticed a couple of regens recently, no lights, just a change in engine tone & the fan coming on. I have the service book but no owners manual so I have no idea what advice is given by Audi regarding driving style etc. I try to coast on the downhill stretches on motorways & longer journeys & I don't high rev when driving in general. It would be good if more C6 diesel drivers chipped in.

Hi, there is a way to unlock the hidden green menu to be able to switch auxiliary on & enable the plug in blue tooth 'dongle'. I did it last week. You download a script put it on a sd card plug it in & follow the instrutions. Google 'hidden audi green menu without vcds'.