mstv

In our situation, the "private road" where we live is owned by the original property developer and there is a management company who manages the shared areas. If you are in that situation, then you could refer the whole thing to them, as any changes would have to have been agreed by them. The key would be to determine who owns the road and is responsible for its maintenance. If your mudflaps don't catch on any speedbumps installed locally by the council, then that puts you in a strong position as well, if your car isn't being damaged by humps on the public highway. If the road is shared ownership between you, your neighbour, other neighbours etc then seek legal advice. Some interesting stuff here: https://www.theramppeople.co.uk/speed-bump-regulations Good luck!

Follow up. The dealership said that the driver's side door handle needed adjustment - it was fractionally out of alignment, which caused it to not fully return to the flush position. This in turn meant that the mechanism was not 100% engaged, which ultimately led to the latch popping open. This in turn attempted to apply the parking brake (parking brake engages when door opens) but at speed, the brake would not apply. They claimed the same errors led to the drive system warning light as well. They adjusted the position of the rubber mounts against which the door handle comes to rest, apparently all round the car, which has resolved the issue. In any case, it's under warranty. Will monitor. thanks for all the thoughts on this one.

Thanks Optimus, Magnet, yes - the dealership has ordered a replacement unit and intends to fit it next Wednesday. The plot thickens though, as tonight as I was driving just a few miles home from my location station, I had a yellow "Drive System Fault. Please contact workshop" message appear. Stopped the car, turned off, restarted - no further error. I've read there are many different reasons for those faults. Interestingly when the lead tech of the dealership showed me the error recorded about the latch, he said that all the other errors on the sytem (including that one) didn't have clear information or time/date data - so I will be interested to see what they find when they investigate this. Probably not related, but who knows! I will contact them tomorrow (later today) to see whether they can bring the appointment forward as I have a lot of miles to cover this week and would prefer not to get stuck somewhere. thanks for all the advice!

Thanks for the thoughts. The window did drop to the point of wind coming in, the door open symbol was lit. Nothing was wrong immediately prior to this event, and I'd entered and started the car in a well lit controlled environment. This wasn't a poorly shut door. It is indeed strange. Audi found some errors in logs related to the door control / door lock mechanism, but confirmed no problems or damage with the parking brake. Both motors operating fully correctly and no damage to any of the mechanism. What would explain the door open warning?

A6 C8. Doing 70mph on M4. All of a sudden, a clunking noise, red "parking brake malfunction contact workshop" error on dash then door open symbol. Driver's door partially opened (as if only latched) and window dropped about 2cm. Pulled over. It felt like the door handle was now slightly less "flush" with the door, but could be imagining it. No damage observed anywhere on the car. Restarted, no errors, no further problems - but obvs. somewhat shaken up by the whole affair. Into dealership tomorrow to insist on safety checks and diagnostic. Various stuff on the net suggests door control and parking brake modules linked, but this was mightily weird. Any sage advice please?

Did a bit more digging as curious! Found this, which confirms it's washer fluid level warning. These days it's more of a curved windscreen icon with the water spurting out of it, rather than a container.

At a guess, windscreen washer fluid?

A few days ago I was sure that the MIB3 login screen had changed somehow - normally I'm just pressing continue so don't look very carefully. It seems my initials were appearing next to my name. Looking at the myAudi website that evening, my profile had a black circle with my initials in it, and clicking on this at the top left of the screen allowed the option to change the profile picture. It didn't work - uploading an image to replace the white initial on a black background just resulted in an error and a suggestion to try again later. I contacted Audi tech support, and was told to do basic troubleshooting (clear cache, try smaller picture, try another browser) - but in the time it took for their reply, the option to change the profile picture was removed from the website. Reporting this back to technical support and challenging them to talk to their developers, I had the following reply: "Kindly be informed that the feature to change your profile's picture is not yet live and is under development. We apologize for the mistake." So - keep an eye out for this, as I would expect the end result to be a profile picture in the app, on the website and on the car's login screen.

Could it be a stone, nut, or something in the plenum space between the back of the dashboard and the engine?

Can the insurer not pick the right car based on registration / details on the V5C?

Thanks everyone! This is enough for me to start a complaint with Audi UK, I will see if I can work up the enthusiasm for it... 🙂

Pics of seats from A6 C8 2023 Saloon 40 TDI black edition. Shows ability to raise / lower the seat base without changing seat height. You can just see the marks on the leather which show the amount I have the seat base lowered, then the maximum amount it can be lowered. First pic in fully raised position, second pic in fully lowered position. Hope that helps.

"Really just need to set the seat base flatter but the adjustments don't allow that" - I guess we have the same electric seats? (mine is a 2023 s-line black edition). I was able to move the front portion of the seat downwards (flatter) whilst not moving the overall seat down. Or are the seats manually adjusted in yours?

Do check in case there is an indication on a sticker somewhere under the bonnet. Might not have one on an older car, but my new A6 this year had the correct oil specs clearly indicated. The manual then advised that you could top up with that spec at any time, but if the correct spec wasn't available it indicated an alternative that could be used only a limited number of times between each full oil service.

Appreciate it's a different model / model year of course. What was new to me on having an Audi was the instruction that you on my model you could fill up as much as you want if you use the specific oil mentioned on the sticker, but if you couldn't, you could only top up ONCE between oil services with something of a different viscosity that still met the standards.

I am not sure if it will help you, but I found in general that I am much more comfortable with the overall seat position being much lower than I would have expected (also an A6 C8). In particular that seemed to decrease the pressure on the backs of my legs considerably.

Isn't there always a sticker under the bonnet which categorically indicates the correct oil?

For what it's worth, I finally got MHEV working in my A6 40TDI Quattro over the last two days. This was achieved by using Efficiency mode, which I hadn't used before, and on long stretches of motorway with noticeable downhill stretches. The M2 heading towards Dover from the Dartford Bridge for example. The longest I observed MHEV working was about 40 seconds, sometimes much less. The A in a circle that comes on when the stop/start system cuts in will show next to the D symbol in the virtual cockpit. According to the trip computer, I was getting around 56-58mpg on average and sometimes more (Helped if the aircon was completely off). The Aircon eco mode seemed to work fine, not much difference from normal in today's temperatures. In Auto drive mode, I did notice the MHEV cut in a couple of times very briefly, so briefly I probably wouldn't have noticed. The transition was pretty seamless. For the original poster, I'd driven over 3000 miles before noticing any of this, and my normal commute doesn't have any roads where the MHEV cuts in when using "Auto" drive mode.

Hi, thanks for asking. Write up below assumes your starting with very limited knowledge I have, so apologies if you know all of this, thought I'd write it up for anyone to follow. Uniwersal [sic] Honeycomb Black Plastic vent car tuning Grill Mesh 40x100 cm https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M035FL1 Cut a strip that was exactly 5.5cm high from the bottom edge using a Dremel or very fine saw. (Gave me excuse to buy a Dremel for about £50). Bottom edge of the sheet is already smooth, top edge was inline with one particular straight edge of honeycomb which made it easy to guide the cutting wheel along, though important to go slowly as one wrong cut and you'd have to start again. I can't remember the width, I measured along the open edge of the grill with a piece of string and left some extra - and then trimmed it afterwards to fit. You'll find that the bottom section of the grill has a ridge which will retain the bottom edge of the panel you make, and that at 5.5cm the top edge will side just high enough inside the gap to push against the back of the open section. Once inside, it was just a matter of getting cable ties into the right places at the very top and bottom of each vertical support on the grill, and fastening them tight inside the space behind the grill and snipping the ends of the tie (leave a tail, in case of the need to tighten further). Be very careful to make sure what you snip! Getting access to fit the grill was quite simple. Remove the bonnet opening lever by depressing the small rectangular indent in the top. I put something big and soft under each bonnet strut so it would stop the bonnet closing if I tried to close it without fitting this lever back again! Undo the 5 x TORX30 screws and washers holding the plastic slam panel in place, and then pull it gently upwards at the bottom side where it clips into the top of the grill. It pulls off quite easily. Then also remove the 2 x TORX 30 screws holding on the plastic air scoop on the left hand side. This gives you full access to the space between the radiators and the grill. Depending on spec there will be various cables to be careful of - the park distance sensors, the radar for the adaptive cruise control, the ambient temperature sensor, etc. Any of that lot getting unplugged or disturbed is a trip to the dealership. For the first go, with my slightly longer piece of trim, I had a spare bit left over which is how I worked out that the 6cm I thought I'd measured was better at 5.5cm. At the passenger side there was a cable at the very end of that bottom grill section which I had to be careful of, so slide the panel in between the cable and the inside of the grill section. There is a cable running all the way along the top of that lowest section which is why I couldn't cut a large piece and fit it flush behind the whole lot. However, I think this gave a better fit. You could do the upper section between PDC sensors and the number plate section of the grill, with another section of the mesh, but I chose not to at this stage. Once the section was the right length, with about half a cm on either side to spare, it is just a case of cable tying on to the upright pieces in that section of the grill. Get someone to help spot when you're poking the cable tie out from inside so that you get exactly to the edge of the upright, then poke back in exactly on the other side of the upright but make sure you also go into another segment of the honeycomb on the way back in. Then, carefully reach both arms in to the space to pull tight and snip off the ends of the cable ties. The edges of the new panel are not secured, so I need to see if a motorway journey results in them being pushed backwards at all. That could be a problem so if it does happen, I might have to find a solution for it in case it fouls any cables. At the moment though hoping not to. Will test tomorrow!

Some tough plastic honeycomb cut exactly to fit inside the grill section. Tempted to do the next section up, but felt this was a balance of reducing risk on the bottom section of the grill without introducing any significant reduction in airflow and without spoiling the look too much.

What a great question! I recall some 45 years ago my dad servicing a number of Triumph Heralds. You could take the whole thing apart and put it back together in a day. I particularly remember painting a line down the driveshaft and gearbox so that the parts could be put back together in alignment. Spares were readily available off the shelf and many parts were generic. These days, most of us get to top up oil, screenwash and (maybe) coolant, and you can't even replace a battery without going to the dealership. I'd love to get into changing some of the settings on my A6 with coding, but it's so complex to get started, there's no support from Audi and warranty issues really bother me, even when all I'd love to do is get a few tweaks done like showing what gear the car is in without being in sport mode! The wind of change that's coming to consumer electronics, where manufacturers have to make their devices repairable - I wonder if that would ever come to cars. I don't know if many manufacturers would ever embrace the right to repair properly whilst they depend so strongly on dealer networks. To be honest I have no background in this area at all, but I can see this only being possible with cars designed and made to be "operated on" and kept going for years to come. Do we think that modern cars are even capable of being sustained as long as some "classic" cars have been kept running? And what about electric vehicles - will they ever be able to become "classic"?

Could well be overthinking it, but there are signs of other impacts on the (aircon?) radiator too which is mounted in front of the coolant radiator. I would like to feel that I'd reduced the risk somehow. Thinking so far that some tough honeycomb plastic fixed inside the grill just to cover the bottom (area in red in the picture below) could retain all the airflow necessary but also deflect a lot of stones. On some earlier models, I've found reference to audi specific clip on covers fitted to the lower radiators to avoid damage... With new radiator showing at bottom: The hole that caused the leak (circled in red) Area of high risk: There are three radiators in total, top down view:

I think it's normal - red is the highlight colour for that category of information in the virtual cockpit. If you press the arrows left/right on the left hand side of the steering wheel, it changes to another section being highlighted, with a different colour. In this video you can see the trip computer section is highlighted and is red, then he navigates to the other sections using the left/right buttons and the section highlight colours are orange (media), green (Phone), or blue (nav). Does that match what's happening in your car? (Sorry about Ethan, it was the first one I came across).

A6 Saloon 40TDI Quattro MHEV 2023, two months from new. Stone impact on radiator caused coolant leak. Recovery to dealership, radiator replacement, £1256 evaporated! Looking at options to protect the radiator. There's so much cabling/tubing on the back of the grill, it would be hard to fit plastic or aluminium mesh flush behind it. Considering whether I could install something between the grill and the radiators that would retain airflow but increase the chance of any debris being deflected. Planning to remove plastic trim between grill and radiator (slam panel?) with the bonnet release in the middle of it and take a good look inside, to see what could be done. Thinking about plastic honeycomb mesh as opposed to anything metal, to act as a net in the space. Before I start tinkering, has anyone already solved for this please and could advise?

A6 C8 40 TDI MHEV also, 2,500 miles today, about 6 weeks from collection. My Audi app indicated to check oil level about 10 days about likely around 2000 miles, it wasn't at minimum but was low on the gauge, so added 1/2 litre of 0W-30 to spec (see label on radiator cover under the bonnet). Seems that the App gives a warning before the point where you'd reach minimum, so I check that regularly. There was no warning from the car at this point, only in the app.