GranolaTTS

Get a smoke test done on it if you suspect a boost leak.

One of my cars Is an 8J TTS I Sometimes get a little water coming in the passenger footwell from the bottom door seal. I CBA to replace the whole door seal so I just leave it. As I have custom rubber floor mats it just creates a tiny puddle on random occasions. But if it is leaking badly you should look into it. Also worth checking the frameless windows are seated correctly as this can cause leaks. Also there is a drain hole on the bottom of the door which sometimes gets blocked, as the door is designed for rainwater to run down the glass and though the door not over it. Regularly applying rubber conditioner and cleaning the seals helps prevent issues. Something like liqui moly gummi-pflege works very well. (especially during winter when the rubber can freeze) If you think water is coming in via the HVAC - you could first try removing the pollen filter which is super easy - no tools required and see if it is damp.

I don't care if people don't bother reading my stuff if some random person in the future benefits from viewing it it's worth it. plus he might have died or something

Very Simple and easy question to answer - Continental Sportcontact 7 . They are the best at the moment with the latest compound technology - better than the P4'S. Failing the Contiential the next best options are - Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S Bridgestone Potenza Sport Goodyear Eagle F1 SuperSport Don't cheap out of 💩 tires - it can literally cost your life or someone you care about. Thanks G

Personally I would use it as a deposit for a TTRS But if you really want to there are a few threads on the tt forum which may help 😄 https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/help-for-400-450-hp.1919011/ https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/karls-track-day-tt-officially-a-10-second-car-10-8-127-mph.1527753/

Prop and Driveshafts have bearings that can wear out and rattle, and universal joints also. You could have a bad bearing in the gearbox which would explain why it goes away in neutral the ZF8 has a pretty big bearing on the rear output. Does it only rattle when shifting between D & R or anytime the car moves? Or does it make a noise when you lift off the throttle at low speeds? Example .. reversing into a space and quickly switching to the brake. What I mean does it make the noise between the drive engaging and disengaging? Or would it make the noise if you were driving around slowly locked in 1st gear? Also does the noise change when changing direction or just backward and forwards..

Had a main dealer do this to my 435d, and put new pads on rubbish rotors.. Trying to flog a car with minimal expense. Thankfully I spotted it before than handover. Fun times.

Why on earth would the copper wiring looms on a 2020 R8 be rusty? Even the connectors have 3 o-rings to prevent water ingress. Maybe if the connector was somehow broken, water could have corroded the contacts, but you wouldn't need a new loom to fix that. Even if the PCV coating wore off somehow you could easily just replace the affected wiring, not the whole loom. Unless you mean they replaced a short piece of wiring loom/ connector associated with the lights. More details would be needed. See a lot of Ignition coil issues on these but not brake light wiring...

It could be a lot of things, have you checked the prop & driveshafts? Could even be engine-related. If it sounds worse when the air box is disconnected this would indicate that it is related to the engine. Have the swirl flaps been deleted? They can malfunction and become loose & even be ingested by the engine causing all kinds of issues.

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

I'm on the same page as Steve, if you do get an A6 make sure it has solid service history. personally, my pick would be the 3.0 BITDI model, the single turbo 3.0 and 2.0 are just a bit slow for such a big heavy car 2100KG. Depending on how much millage it's done and its history you may need to allocate a reasonable yearly maintenance budget for it. A black edition would be my preference for this model. I'm talking about C7 Generation cars, I don't know much about the C8 except the 3.0 BITDI C7 is faster than the C8 S6. 100-200 2016 3.0 BITDI 14.52 VS 2019 S6 TDI 15.04 The Single Turbo 3.0 will be okay if you are more chilled, again make sure the gearbox and all other serviceable items have been serviced as per schedule. The 3.0 diesel with the ZF-8 Speed gearbox is the one to get. Change the Oil every 5k also, you could get away with 10k but I wouldn't, With the fuel filter get it changed each year if you can. Audi recommends 15-20k.. Get the one with a ZF 8HP Gearbox this will only come with the larger engines, it's a tried and tested gearbox used in loads of cars. Aston Martin. The Toyota Supra. The Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio. BMW. Rolls-Royce. They all use ZF 8HP. I had a BMW with the same gearbox couldn't fault it. If you're going to cheap out on a 2.0 L A6 you might as well just get a Skoda Superb as it will be essentially the same. Get the grown-up 3.0 one 😂 If for some reason you go for a 2.0 L make sure you get a DSG. Avoid any with the CVT gearboxes, I have spotted a few early C7s with a CVT gearbox so make sure you avoid them. (*Just my opinion on these cars based on my own cars and things I have read*)

Hey Tony, 100k is quite a few miles for one of these depending on what has been done to it. I purchased mine at 50k and the Hadlex filter was clogged, this was after it was done 20k miles ago by the last owner. (but still working somehow) Most examples for sale don't have any diff or gearbox oil change history, although some do. Thankfully mine had the DSG oil changed at 35k & 50k. The filter clogs on these which then destroys the pump, this can be fixed in around 3 hours with a new pump oil & filter depending on the level of damage. In regards to the DSG oil, it is more important IMO as this is much much more expensive to repair than the rear diff. Personally, I would look out for one with some history & lower miles, even if it takes a few more months of suffering or saving etc. They are complicated cars and need to be looked after in an OCD-like fashion to avoid issues. Even at 50k, Mine needed a new Diverter, PCV, front door speaker, blower motor & condenser/re-gas. I did most of this myself so It wasn't so bad. Depending on what model/engine you are going for there are quite a few common issues to look out for when purchasing also. The DQ250 & DQ500 are a couple of the best gearboxes ever made, but still need to be looked after. I'm assuming you are looking at either the 2.0 TSFI or 2.0 TDI non-S/RS model, but the same principles of care and maintenance apply to all AWD DSG models. From my experience, unless you drive slowly I would follow the below schedule. If you drive chilled you can probably get away with the standard recommendations. DSG OIL & Filter 20k (Standard Reccomnedation 40k Miles) Haldex OIL & Filter 20k (Standard Reccomnedation 20k Miles) Engine OIL & Filter 5k (Standard Reccomnedation 10k Miles (RIP Turbo if you like to drive)) Brake Fluid 2/3 Years (Bog Standard) Another thing you could do is request the service history from the dealer, Previous Audi's I have looked at had missing history which I simply recovered by requesting it from the dealer. There is a solid chance that buying the higher mileage car with no history will end up costing you more than buying a cleaner example. Hope this helps,

No Worries! So I found a few decent answers from other forum, if anyone randomly stumbles onto this topic in 4 years time of something, it might help a random person😂 Apart from adding a little noise insulation & presentation (Both primary reasons) It does not serve any purpose. Benefits & Risks.. Benefits: Space for larger intake, better heat dissipation for coil packs & valve cover, more noise (if that's your thing) & Cheaper than replacement if the foam backing is breaking down (common issue) Makes service/inspection work faster. Risks:Minimal Noise increase(mostly direct injection idle noise at a standstill), Does increase the probability of breaking a sensor (cam sensor) if your silly enough to go ham fisted leaning on components but improbable unless your clumsy. Based on 50,000 miles without one.

Maybe I'm on the wrong forum, I should be posting on a Track Car Forum or someplace else!!! sorry, but the question is a serious one. I was hoping for an answer like "I've been running my S3 without a cover for 5 years without any issues...." 😂 "Or keep it on, because of XYZ reasons" Of course I understand that 1KG makes no difference to your average Joe in a TDI A4 or something, but for an occasional track build losing a race by .000023 of a second is due to minor excess weight is still losing the race.. For example their might be 20 small weight savings adding up to something significant like 25kg. If you just fobbed each one off as insignificant then you still might not get the time you want... but it would increase the probability by x.% amount. I removed the rear seats out of my previous build and it saved a massive 60KG, everything adds up even the small bits. This is especially important if you add weight but upgrading a particular part like adding 2kg with adjustable camber arms, which will increase grip for certain setups but also have potential to add undesired weight. Nevermind😅😅😅

You should buy the Actual Audi Collapsible space saver, will fit right in, think they go for around £150. Retro Fitting a Golf wheel with a wood baton and ratchet etc would trigger my OCD.

Tks for response, I understand your view which makes sense for 99% of people. And it's about 1/2KG so quite significant from a weight weight weenies perspective😁 And throwing a piece of plastic in the workshop is a lot cheaper than buying some Aluminum control arms for £600 to save 4KG 😅 Or replacing the Aluminum Bonnet for Carbon Fibre etc etc. Best, G

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Do the Engine Covers on Audi 2.0 TSFI models serve any purpose, except keeping extra heat inside the engine bay. Don't care about how it looks or supposed noise insulation. Anyone have experience with removing it for a number of years? Just think its kinda pointless piece of extra weight... Presumably it might protect something from water, but doesn't the hood do that anyway. My prev car had bonnet scoop, so it actually made sense as it protected the ignition coils from water that might enter via top mounted intercooler. (I replaced the plastic one with a piece of laser cut & folded aluminum) Thanks!