Itspointless

I have no idea, it was new but a pattern part. The pulley has a few mm play and knocks when I twist it left or right. Replaced with a OEM shaft and it's fine now. The pattern part has INA stamped on it but so does the audi one. About £400 price difference though.

Update on this. Inlet camshaft pulley buggered!

Unfortunately if you have had the oil cooler changed already then the only suspect left is the head gasket as mentioned above.

Any water in the oil?

Yes that looks like it can be removed. Looks like you won't need a radiator. That's good news.

the screwdriver is pointing directly towards where the pipe plugs into the radiator outlet.

If you look at the end that's broke off you can see the connector with the little silver circlip the same clip that's on the other end where it plugs into the expansion tank. Plugged into that clip on the radiator end is the radiator outlet that's broken off the radiator. It's part of the radiator and cannot be replaced, the pipe is fine but the radiator is buggered! I've just looked at mine and the radiator can be removed easily enough. It could have been knocked at some point and weakened it, or excessive pressure in the cooling system could have caused the radiator to split or it could even be a case of someone breaking it in the past and glued it back on. Anyway any good garage will be able to replace the radiator and check the cooling system is working properly. Did you not get a coolant level warning appear on the dash?

You can see the outlet still clipped into the pipe. It's broken off the radiator. You could try and glue it but it's not gonna hold for long. The system will be pressurised when hot! You may be able to remove the radiator without taking the bumper off but I can't be sure. I'll look at mine later and see.

That's broken from the radiator mate. You need to replace the radiator. There's no way I'd be driving that 15 miles, get it towed.

I understand what you are saying, just trying to say if you have a 7 year old car with 20k on the clock then changing the belt seems pointless. If it's 7 years old and 10k away from the interval then yea I'd recommend changing it. I would always advise that you stick to the manufacturers schedule. Apart from oil changes that seem a bit far between lately. After a random call from audi I would pop into my local dealer and see if there's any truth in this change. Normally they will give you a courtesy call informing you a service is due but changes in manufacturers recommendations Normally comes in the form of a letter or email.

That sounds a bit fishy to me. I've owned a couple of hybrids but not plug in and in auto mode they have managed the battery charge quite well. The last I had was a lexus and that manged the battery charge on regenerative braking alone. It also had a separate 12v battery to start the engine in the event the battery pack was depleted. If you never intend to plug it in maybe you should consider exchanging it for a non plug in hybrid.

I bought a 12 year old focus several years ago with 50k on the clock original timing belt, sold it to a friend who put another 60k on it over the space of several years. He never had the belt changed. He sold it back to me in 2021 cheap, so cheap I give it to my ex girlfriend who needed a car, anyway to cut a long story short she sold it last year with over 120k on the clock and I see it on Facebay a few months later with a suspected snapped belt! The car was a 2005 model so the belt lasted well past its use by date and recommended mileage. I've seen a few manufacturers giving two intervals lately I.e 80k warranty and 120k out of warranty. Personally I've always done the belt on the cars I care about on mileage alone and not had a belt snap on me yet. I think someone that uses their car alot is gonna hit the mileage long before the belt is considered out of date and those that don't use the car a lot don't do enough miles for the belt to be that badly degraded in the time frame.

I would imagine that a lot of belts sit in store rooms for many years before being put to use. So age isn't really an issue. In this day and age they seem to out live timing chains quite well.

Well I've tensioned the chain with the bracket removed put it back together and it's still the same. Definitely sounds like it's coming from the inlet cam pulley. Guess I'm gonna have to strip down the top end again and replace the camshaft.

I've just read another timing procedure instructions online that says to tension the chain with the camshaft support bracket removed. And the instructions a friend printed for me says to tension the chain with the support in place. Maybe this is where I have gone wrong? Thanks.

Well I've reset the tensioner, and as I released the plunger it's gone back to where it was before. I've checked all the timing marks are aligned which they are. A friend said if the timing was out it would throw up a code anyway. Maybe this dephaser pulley is faulty, but id imagine it would throw a code for that if it was? It's strange that once the engine is warm (oil thiner) it starts to make the noise. I think I'm gonna throw some castrol in it or something. Thanks.

Yeah it's the loud rattling sort of noise you can hear over everything. When I start it from cold it's pretty much silent but as it gets warmer the noise gets louder. I'm gonna reset the tension today, hopefully it solves it. Thanks.

Hi thanks for looking. After rebuilding my engine there's a rattle coming from the front of the engine! Does it sound like the chain? I'm thinking maybe I might need to re tension it? Whats the thoughts on this please ? 20230728_141343.mp4 Thanks.

Well it seems after a visit to audi and buying a genuine oil filter! The union is part of the filter itself, no more filters from ebay I guess. Oil pressure warning has stopped.

Oh, this would have been so much easier when the engine was out of the car. Could this problem be behind the low oil pressure warning when the car is idling now do you think? If I raise the revs above 1000 the warning goes away but as soon as I drop to idle low oil pressure warning pops up again. Thanks.

So this is not the first time I've removed the oil filter and the union has come out with it! Before rebuilding the engine I put a small amount of thread lock on it but after running it up to temperature I've gone to replace the oil filter and the union has come out with it again! Is this a known problem and is there a fix without replacing the oil filter housing please? Thanks

£4800 is a bit expensive if they are only going to replace the pistons or piston rings? Bearing in mind I replaced the piston rings, timing chains, 16 valves plus the stem seals, camshaft Bridge and pulleys and a few other bits and bobs. It set me back about £1400 for parts. A recon engine will probably be a better choice using an indy or something. It all depends on how much you like the car? Would it be worth your while in the long run spending 5k on it or selling it and let it be someone else's problem? This is a known issue with the tfsi across the whole vag range, including vw, seat and skoda! With mine I couldn't really sell it because it was only firing on 3 cylinders but with yours it's still running ok so you should get good money for it. The 2.0 tdi is a solid engine and diesels are really dropping in price at the moment.

Eventually due to increased amounts of carbon build up due to excessive amounts of oil being burned, chunks of carbon will get trapped in the valve seats and cause pitting which leads to the valves leaking and will lead to something like this happening.

I remember there used to be a tool called vw scan but a search of ebay returns nothing. It depends on which systems you wish to access? The cheap handheld scanners will only access emissions related codes! There's vcds on ebay although I'm unsure If that works on newer models. I used to use one called k lite or something like that which was pretty good for vag. Or this is on offer atm and give you access to everything. https://www.autelstore.co.uk/wholesale/autel-maxicom-mk808-diagnostic-tool.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwtuOlBhBREiwA7agf1iS1v2ijvnIVjNWJyaDBMfHabzdn_0-KqdPAkSgVLZGTWYWVu6OR_BoCaowQAvD_BwE

My 1.8 tfsi was the same, completely stripped the engine and it would seem half the oil was passing clogged up control rings and the other half was coming out of the crankcase breather due to abnormal crankcase pressure because of blow by (compression rings) stuffed. When I removed the rings it was packed with carbon behind them.