David021

Hello. Took the car to a mechanic today, sadly it's the turbo that's doing this noise and the problem with the acceleration.

Hey. Thank you for the help. I'm taking the car to a mechanic today as the noise became more loud and it's coming from the turbo sadly, or somewhere near the turbo.

Thanks. Is there any way to check these two?

No fault codes. When I start the engine there is a squealing noise when accelerating. It disappears after changing to third gear. Does not appear again until I start the engine again or if I'm going down a hill for 5-10 minutes without pressing the accelerator , then it appears again except it's much louder but disappears after some time.

Hello. I have an Audi A4 B8 2012 Facelift 2.0 Diesel. The car stutters when accelerating, it started only at 3.000 + RPM-s, now it stutters even at low 2.000. The "motorsteuerung" light (EPC Light) started flashing suddenly after an acceleration in third gear. After stoping and restarting the car the flashing EPC light stoped, but the car still drives like !Removed! when accelerating. Can it be the throttle body or more likely the throttle position sensor?

Turns out it was a faulty throttle body. I took it out and cleaned it, seems like the problem temporarily disappeared. 🙂

Update: It still does it sometimes , not always and not that often as before, but now it can happen even at lower RPM-s. 2000 or 2500 , mostly in second and third gear. I still can't figure it out what could it be.

I don't think so, the car accelerates normally as it should , it has all it's power. It doesn't seem like any power is missing.

As I mentioned, the injectors were changed with brand new ones maybe 3.000 kms ago so I do not think that they are contaminated. I have a rubber clamping at the muffler which is worned out, so the muffler moves a bit, sometimes I can hear it clanking , I will need to change that, but I don't think it should not cause an issue like this. But good news, as I was driving it a little bit harder maybe a week ago, accelerating all the way through first , second, third and fourth, I did this maybe three times and the problem dissappeared. So maybe something was clogged up or was not functioning as it should. It seems like a little bit of hard driving solved this issue.

Hello. My Audi has a "hickup" where the engine cuts out for a split second , it does it only one or twice at around 3.000 RPM, at 4.000 or above it's more frequent and it doesn't happen all the time. Not lights on the dash, nothing shows up on VCDS scan , the oxygen sensor was changed recently as well as the injectors with new o-rings. Any ideas what could it be?

Yes. You have to change or refurbish the injectors. Had the same problem. I recommend that you change or refurbish all of the injectors, so you won't have any problems afterwards.

I do not hear any weird noises. Can you describe the noise you are hearing?

Fault code from VCDS software: Access/Start Auth - Enabling Terminal 15 - 03026 Any ideas what this code means? Have anyone had this problem?

I did, however in this post is the full problem written down.

I have the following issue with my Audi A4 B8.5 2012 2.0 TDI Quattro 177 HP : "Steering Lock : Contact Workshop" : It randomly appeared on the dash after washing the car, it stayed on for a day, then dissapeared for more than a month , now it came back again with more serious problems being: When I put the key in the slot , I push it with my foot being off the clutch , the car gives "Steering Lock : Contact Workshop" fault. If I press the clutch and push the key once more, the car does not even want to crank, just takes off the ignition. If I push the key in several times, sometimes after 10-15 tries the car randomly starts, but still leaving the "Steering Lock : Contact Workshop" fault on the dash. The Start - Stop System works fine, if the system stops the car at a red light, when I put my foot on the clutch it starts the engine without any problems. I found out, that my car has a battery installed, which is not for cars with start - stop system. I also learned that on the minus side it has a sensor, which could be faulty because of this battery? Does it worth changing it , or trying to change it? VCDS software showed a malfunction at terminal 15 , "something something short to minus (or plus)". Unfortunately I don't have an OBD scanner, neither the VCDS software, so I don't have the scan, also I don't exactly remember the fault it showed on the scan. I don't want to take it to a mechanic , because I fear that it will be really expensive, since they did not even know what the issue was. Does anyone has an idea what could cause this type of fault?