Hammie1982

Regenerate the DPF and Have the EGR cleaned out aswell. a large proportion of the time if your DPF is clogging up from shorter journeys, then your going to need to clean out the EGR Valve too.

ill be quite honest, there will NEVER be an issue with the DPF in my wifes car again (unless someone goes to inspect it that is)

You might find that its like the one in my wifes Seat Alhambra. I found it was clogging up alot so got a scope and put it down into the DPF (removed from the car). couldnt see anything so i put a bung in it and poured a load of DPF clean into it, and left it over night. Then i used a DPF Rinse fluid and gave it a proper clean out. (all this was done after a forced purge while on the car) With the scope i was able to see a crack in the DPF Material inside the unit (fairly big crack) which required a replacement DPF (or a DPF Delete)

I think this query would be best answered on the ODB 11 Forum and not a general Audi fan base forum. Not saying you wont get the right answer here, I just think the guys over there would be in a much better position to be able to answer that question than a simple occasional end user. For what its worth looking at the the image in this link https://imgbb.com/LCtLsH3, I think you can see what software is installed but i wouldnt swear on it.

Ive just done my own lights with a Maguires Headlight restoration polish and a hot air gun. I used the hot air gun first and that took quite a bit of the cloudyness out of the glass (being careful not to overheat the glass) Then used my drill mounted polishing pads and some tape around the edges that i didnt want to touch with the polish. a small bit of water to keep the heat under control and polished the glass with the 3 different grades of pads. Keep it slow and steady and youll be fine. If your really uncomfortable doing it yourself, speak to your local detailers and they will be able to do it for you.

Robert, I dont know how a bearing issue would be causing a misfire, unless the piston slap was REALLY bad and then you would be loosing oil and it would sound like a bag of spanners in a washing machine. What are you using to diagnose the issue? Is it a garage computer or a private VCDS / other ODB plug in unit? It should be able to pinpoint where the misfire is coming from! I have seen reconditioned / reprogrammed injectors throw up errors in the past. Especially on remapped cars. It might be worth getting a second opinion on the bottom end, as without hearing the car or knowing the fault codes, anyone could be throwing darts into the air and waiting to see what fault it picks.

The Buzzer itself is part of the cluster. if its the buzzer then its (unless you are a master craftsman with it comes to soldering) a replacement cluster thats needed. Completely cost prohibitive in my opinion. As for testing for errors, yes you can throw VCDS on the car, but i dont remember ever getting an error on the computer for this problem (ive had 2 different cars that suffered with the same thing... an A4 and an A3). What i might suggest before you go ripping into the dash to look at the rear of the cluster, is checking other connections around the dash. particularly around the light switch or the indicator stalk.

is yours a BOSE system or what one is in your car? Theres a fairly common issue that the Rear Window Washer, leaks and then corrupts and corrodes the amplifier boards. What i would suggest is while your in there, seal up any of the joints etc where the water can leak from or reroute the washer line

they are an absolute pain in the bum to change. but going in thru the wheel well is the quickest and "easiest" Make sure you have a axel stands and not working under there with the car held up by the jack. I use wheel blocks and axel stands every time now after a near miss some years ago that seen a shogun fall off a jack and narrowly miss taking a friends arm off at the shoulder.

Sounds like the Amplifier issue to me. The amp as far as i remember is in the rear 1/4 panel behind the boot linings. theres 2 connectors on it, one small square (white) and the other is a long brown connector with a locking pin on one end and a hook on the other that holds it in place! Should be fairly easy to remove but without it being in the car i dont know how your going to test it! Its possible that one of the connectors has come loose and thats why your not getting any sound, or maybe you have a blown fuse / broken wire on the line to the amp.

Clifford, Thanks for the reply. Ive taken the connectors off and given them a good clean, ive checked all grounds and everything else i can think of before considering replacement bulbs. I checked the price of bulbs from Audi and they quoted me something ridiculous like €150 per bulb.

James, What year of Q5 are the wheels off? I can check the PDC, Offset etc for instance the 2.0tfsi Q5 2008 - 2012 has an offset of 37 - 41 where the A8 3.0 Tdi 2005 has an offset range of 43 - 47. As far as i remember (i can double check later) the OE 20's came with 255/35R20 ET43 (the 18s were et45 & 17s were et43)

One of my headlights has an intermittent fault. (think the buld is on its way out) it goes pink for a day or two and then rights itself again. Wondering is there any upgrade to them or is a replacement with like for like a better option? I know these are available(https://autoleduk.co.uk/Xenon-to-LED-Headlight-Conversion-Kit-p605072955), but i dont know anyone that has tried them. If its a like for like replacement, what do you like in the colour range? I was thinking maybe a slight blue tinge as it helps to define the verge line on narrower roads Maybe along the 8k range? Any cons or reasons why 8k is a bad idea?

Great news that you got sorted. Hopefully you will get the money returned! There were a couple of possibilities that were running thru my head based on my previous experience with these. 1. Broken wire between the ignition and starter motor. 2. Immobiliser fault meaning you need more power to start the car than normal - (hence my query on the charge state of the battery) last one of these i had wouldnt start unless it was at full charge and had a jump starter also. when the immobiliser was removed however it never gave a problem again. 3. break switch error. car didnt realise the foot was on the break pedal meaning it was still looking for that input in order for it to start.

Whilst I would agree, I would also disagree from the point of view that i have often seen people try jumpstart from smaller engines with "cheap" jump leads and they dont work. however using a set of heavy duty leads and a larger capacity battery has helped out the same car. Its not a definitive resolve, but whats the hurt in charging overnight and trying it! I would try the easy stuff before spending money on an issue being honest.